Outer Limits 4x4 Board

HI, JUST CURIOUS. IS THE CHEV 350 BOLT PATTERN THE SAME AS A GEN 3 V8 BELL HOUSING, ANY MODS? WILL THEY BOLT STRAIGHT IN? HAS ANYBODY DONE THIS CONVERSION? WHAT MODS IS REQUIRED? ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREAT, CHEERS

I SEE YOU LIKE CAPITALS

I beleive they are similar, sumone will surely chime in soon, Maybe this would get a faster response in General 4by Tech

um i believe they are the same except for one less bolt in the top of the bellhousing on the gen 3 could be either way thou!

You are kerect.
The bolt hole behind no 8 is missing in a Gen 111, ie RH OZ drivers side.
DO not drill this hole or it will be expensive.
Regard s Philip A

Philip A wrote:You are kerect.
The bolt hole behind no 8 is missing in a Gen 111, ie RH OZ drivers side.
DO not drill this hole or it will be expensive.
Regard s Philip A

Thanx Phill, so the gen 3 will bolt straigh into the 350 bolt pattern but don't worry about the extra bolt? any other info?, cheers

From the ones i have seen, the chev is a better fit than a 308 and the starter is on the right side so you dont have to chop the wiring. One of my dads mates had a 400 sbc in a 2dr with a 9" diff in the rear with a big lift and went like the clappers.

Loanrangie wrote:From the ones i have seen, the chev is a better fit than a 308 and the starter is on the right side so you dont have to chop the wiring. One of my dads mates had a 400 sbc in a 2dr with a 9" diff in the rear with a big lift and went like the clappers.

Hi Loanrangie, they certainly go like the clappers until you point them up hill. i have decided to go the gen3 because its all alloy block etc and want to keep my king spring within limits so i don't have to revalve them, however i have a brand new crate eng gen 3 on order ready to go but wanted to know about the bellhousing before i rang Marks 4wd adapters, i thought i would see what every one else thinks of the idea. cast iron block too heavy for my application, high speed. trying to reduce top heavy. already efi,thats a bonus for sure..GTS specs running 300 kw , cheers ,LJ

Well Peterson's Off Road and 4Wd swapped aGen111 6 litre into a 350 Blazer.
TH 700R4 bolts right up.
Engine mount holes are in a different place but advance adaptors( Marks are agent) do a plate to position them as per 350 part no 713088-P
GM flat flexplate PN 12563136 can be used with LS1, but apparently you have to use a different one with 6 litre..
There are 4 types of Factory exhausts in the USA. The only centre dump ones are 97-03 Corvette. I do not know what Commodore ones are like.
Rear sumps are obviously available as there is a line up photo of LS1s and one has a rear sump.
Kalmaker does stand alone GM ECUs that have deleted the body inputs.
Regards Philip A

yes just one extra hole in the adaptor plate

I found the Gen 3 in the defender is tight as the alternator ( Down low) just clears the chassis and you can forget air cond as its goes where the steering box sits

Other than that you wont look back if you can get a driveline to hold the power

discokid wrote:yes just one extra hole in the adaptor plate

I found the Gen 3 in the defender is tight as the alternator ( Down low) just clears the chassis and you can forget air cond as its goes where the steering box sits

Other than that you wont look back if you can get a driveline to hold the power

thanks,sounds like i have a new project for the week. your defender looks good, what driveline upgrades have you done to support LS1, any helping hints for me. is the alternator a problem or should it be moved, any ideas would be most appreciated. cheers. if you have any more pics please post them up

Electronic Automotive in Melbourne will also re do the computer. and turn off all the BCM stuff.

He will also programe to what you wish. You tell him what you intend to do and he will taylor it for you. Give big torque anywhere you want it. Don't get hung up on just the Kilowatt figure. Plus if it's intended for prolonged high speed like Aust SAFARI it will need to be set for such.

Talk to him tell him what your doing and intend to do with it and watch the magic.

LJ_RANGYSPARES & REPAIRS

My driveline upgrades are:

Rear diff Salsbury with 4.1 D60 gears, Maxidrive axles and discovery outers

Front diff 4.1s ARB Air locker and 24/23 Maxi axles with genuine County CVs

Custom tailshafts now front and rear (I snapped a few fronts)

Gearbox is TF 727 with 21 lt oil capacity custom sump triple coolers with electric tranfer pump. All heavy duty internals, kevlar bands, lightweight drums. bolt in sprag, 5 plate clutch full manual valve body bla,bla bla. I just had Stone Bros Racing look over the whole thing and it should now be near bulletproof. ( I had a lot of problems with the gearbox temps)
But has cost $

Transfer case is lt 230


The engine computer was already done when I bought the motor from GQ on this board. Ive just had some upgrades done and the computer re mapped

The torque convertor ( i have two) is custom made for the application. Ive gone to slightly higher stall and is a little spongy. Having said that under full throttle it will chirp the 33's on all gear changes - You definately need to speak to people who know what they doing with convertors if you go auto

All the other mods are racing mods as I use it for offroad racing ( there are hundreds of them)

The other thing you need to do if your going to drive it hard is engine mounts. The crappy mounts they come with wont stand up to the abuse and vibration that 4wding creates. My custom mounts are pictured below and the finished product

sweeet as!