Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Gday all... i got a small dilemma
fitting my tuff dog caster plates to my GQ... passenger side on no probs but how do i drill the holes in the drivers side? ive taken the wheel off but i still cant fit a drill in there to drill the holes for the front bolt to go through?? any ideas?

Take the arm out of the car or try and drop the arm down a bit.

nah wrong bit... the holes i have to drill are in the bracket that is already welded onto the diff housing...

a mate of mine had this dilema, so he bolted the passenger side and welded the drivers side.

Right angle drill - you can get them in an air drill variety too.

THey aint cheap to buy... I looked into when doing mine. I just relented and got someone else to do it who had the tools.

Don't weld.. engineers don't like welding. A high tensile bolt is easier to pass off strength wise as some blokes welds.

Yeah I had to use a 90deg drill which had a max chuck size of 10mm and then use a rotary bur to open the hole out to the required size. The drivers side took me about 2 hours to do, passenger only 15mins or so...

yea i scored me a 90 deg air drill
will i need this for passenger side too ?

Stupid question time, why do you need to drill out the diff brackets?

I've never looked into castor brackets before but always just assumed they used the same size bolts as on the standard radius arm setup.

Cheers.

with radius arms whern lifted the castor is upto shit, and pinion points upwards, the castor plates rotate the diff back to factory specs,

so the castor plates ave 3 holes, one for the original rear bolth, one for the radius arm bolt, and one, to mount the front of the plate to the diff,

a pic would explain this better, so i might do it later unless someone else beats me,

sorta hard to explain, ive done the best i can at the moment

ozy1 wrote:with radius arms whern lifted the castor is upto shit, and pinion points upwards, the castor plates rotate the diff back to factory specs,

so the castor plates ave 3 holes, one for the original rear bolth, one for the radius arm bolt, and one, to mount the front of the plate to the diff,

a pic would explain this better, so i might do it later unless someone else beats me,

sorta hard to explain, ive done the best i can at the moment

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. I understand the concept of castor correction plates, how they work and why they are needed.

What I wasn't aware of was why the original diff mounts need to be drilled out? I always assumed you just used the same diameter bolt (just a little longer) to bolt the plates on. Thought it was a straight bolt-on, no-mod job.

okay, the drilling is only needed for bolt on castor plates, they dont use the original hole left where the arm used to mount, iof ya get me

Ooooooook, so basically you need to drill a new set of front holes higher than the original front hole locations.

Fair enough ...

RoldIT wrote:Ooooooook, so basically you need to drill a new set of front holes higher than the original front hole locations.

Fair enough ...

yeah only for a bolt to hold em in place,

where as, i have some weld on castor plates on my shorty

ill take some pics on weekend to explain it a bit better if ya want
next question... im using 5 degree plates... and have 4" coil lift... and its a shorty... is my front shaft gonna hit the X member? if it does how do i fix that...

you might have to notch the cross member, ill be doing mine soon

Ryan wrote:ill take some pics on weekend to explain it a bit better if ya want
next question... im using 5 degree plates... and have 4" coil lift... and its a shorty... is my front shaft gonna hit the X member? if it does how do i fix that...

Photos would be good, just for interest sake.

Cheers.

You will get the shaft touching the crossmember on full droop or when turning hard right at speed (if you have the hubs lockedd it can sound like a shagged out CV if the front shaft balancing tab is right over the crossmember).

I did a temporary fix by adding about 10mm of spacers (washers) between the crossmember and the chassis. The best solution is to notch the crossmember.