Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok so the Nissan guys thought i was gonna cros over and use their diffs under my rangie but i am not

Its toyo 80 series diffs front and rear.

Now the purpose of this thread if just for me to get an idea of when/how you guys broke your front hipinion diffs, to give me an idea of strength.
Basically wanna know wat size tyres... locked or unlocked and if any ones let go in forward (not like the common breakage in reverse).
Also if any other bits and peices of the diff internals have shat emselves on yah.

Storys on the rear too hopefully there isnt many


Cheers
Grimace

I broke mine unlocked 2 years ago... wiht 35" tyres.. but.... the diff was full of grease.. (the old owner did no maintence....)

Now its locked with 36" pedes and havent had a prob since.. *touches wood*

But from wat I hear the high pinion diffs break most often in reverse.. So running one in the rear may not be a good idea...

But thats not to say it wont be ok...

the only stories ive heard about front diff breakages on 80 diffs are mostly when people reverse up a hill thus puttin extreme pressure on the diff centre mostly due to all that weight on the front..

Sorry I didnt read that very well......

I havent heard of many havin probs with the rear diff...

Gday
Bought a hemi today at the Sydney swap meet.....the teeth on the crown wheel were half missing where one of the big windows are in the centre...
or where you look through the hemi casing at the sungears, that hole...
There is no support in this position for the ring gear and the pinion can move the teeth appart under extreme load, to make them eat eachother....i believe that the latest 100 series has an open 4 pinion centre (like the solid lsd centre) to stop this happening...cant confirm this though...apparently the bundy 22r turbo had this as a rear centre.....
Anyway, back to the story...if you put an arb loka in or a lsd centre, the diff becomes 100% stronger, then you can make up a solid spacer between the two pinion bearings to replace the collapseable spacer in there now...that makes the pinion stronger...then you can also secure the ctr in the housing with 10mm bolts instead of 8mm ones.
The housings like to bend on the long side over jumps....adding bracing on this side is advisable...

dow50r wrote:Gday
The housings like to bend on the long side over jumps....adding bracing on this side is advisable...

hahahahahhahaa - yep - sure do!!! Laminate the housing if you wanna stadium race your 80!!

80diesel4play wrote:

dow50r wrote:Gday
The housings like to bend on the long side over jumps....adding bracing on this side is advisable...

hahahahahhahaa - yep - sure do!!! Laminate the housing if you wanna stadium race your 80!!

Gday
apparently, later than 93 front difflock diff housings are laminated from the factory....but hey, they would be hard to find!
Andrew

I wouldnt mind knowing how strong they are either! I am thinking of installing 80 series diffs in my 60 that Im building

Pauwolf wrote:I wouldnt mind knowing how strong they are either! I am thinking of installing 80 series diffs in my 60 that Im building

Stick with the 60 series housings - jusyt pay for the coils setup - the 60 housing is 8mm think opposed to the 80's running 5mm thick.

The 60 also has the advantage of same size front rear dif centre for ease of mucking aorund! Teh 80 front is the same as a RV6 rear but high pinion. I personally gave mine a fair amount of work and had no issues at all. I have NEVER seen opne let go yet - I have a bunch of mates with 80's who go sick and have no drama's.

I cheated all around and shoved a complete GQ front end in... But thats just me.. laminated and all!!!! gotta love that!!

Ive never seen one let go either, but lots of people change them anyway.

I am going to use the 80 housings front and rear, for the extra width, better brakes, bigger axles and CVs (and maybe just to be different)

thanks for your input

stds on the back axle brake u can get 100 ser 10 mm studs they are prit y strong

Pauwolf wrote:Ive never seen one let go either, but lots of people change them anyway.

I am going to use the 80 housings front and rear, for the extra width, better brakes, bigger axles and CVs (and maybe just to be different)

thanks for your input

Paul
why not put 100 diffs in there then...they are wider, better ratios, bigger brakes again bigger axle studs, and fit where an 80 diff goes.
Andrew

I thought about 100 ser but they got those 5 stud wheels and I got the 80 series diffs for the right price and I got an 80 series as well so Theoretically all my diff parts are interchangable ( less spares)

guess i got a soft spot or sumthing

just a question do 15" wheels fit on the 80's as well.

The Early 80series cruisers came out with 15" wheels from 90-94 (correct me if im wrong).

yes they did and if you try and put 15 inch wheels on a 16inch diff the wheels run into the backing plate and discs

vSAHARAx wrote:The Early 80series cruisers came out with 15" wheels from 90-94 (correct me if im wrong).

Gday your right, but it as 1990-late 1992, when the new twincam motor came out...they went bigger brakes.
Its not an issue on the front, but on the back it is. If you buy Navara offset steel white sunnies, there is only a minute amount of grinding to do on the callipers.
Andrew

so i can still get 15's to fit if i just grind some of the caliper away.

customhilux wrote:so i can still get 15's to fit if i just grind some of the caliper away.

yep, seen it done numerous times....as i said up there, the navara offset is the best, because it is a wider offset or deeper dish to std cruiser. If you use the cruiser offset, you need to grind more off...
Andrew

dow50r wrote:

customhilux wrote:so i can still get 15's to fit if i just grind some of the caliper away.

yep, seen it done numerous times....as i said up there, the navara offset is the best, because it is a wider offset or deeper dish to std cruiser. If you use the cruiser offset, you need to grind more off...
Andrew

hey dow50r, u don't know the backspace measurement for the navara wheels do ya.

I think it is 3.5 inches

I have been running an 80 series Hi Pinion in my buggy since it was built. It only Weighs aprox 1400KG but i dont drive it nice. I am a little catious in Reverse sometimes I have not broke a single front centre however i brake a rear Low Pinion usually every event. The same front centre was in my Hilux as well with a Rover V8 and Dual Transfers.

From what I've been told the high pinion 8" diff is reasonably strong with an ARB locker, solid pinion spacer (instead of the crush sleeve) and factory gears. I run this in a Bundera HP diff (almost identical to a Cruiser) with 5.29 C&P (same manufacturer that makes factory Tojo gearsets) and break CV's. The guy Cheezy uses to set up diffs is the best I've seen (virtually fark all backlash).
Once I get a set of Ruff's CV's then I'll discover how strong these HP diffs are

RUFF wrote:I have been running an 80 series Hi Pinion in my buggy since it was built. It only Weighs aprox 1400KG but i dont drive it nice. I am a little catious in Reverse sometimes I have not broke a single front centre however i brake a rear Low Pinion usually every event. The same front centre was in my Hilux as well with a Rover V8 and Dual Transfers.

Hmmm well after the last W.E.Rock round at Bathurst i beleived i had damaged a rear Crown and Pinion. So today i pulled it out to replace it and it was perfect. the same cant be said for the pair of axles that were replaced right before this event. They were both twisted. So i have this clunking noise that sounded like it was comming from the rear. I now know the rear diff is fine so my next thought was i had damaged my transfer. Dropped the belly plate off and pulled the inspection cover off my transfer. Everything is fine in there. So then i pull the front diff and its missing 3 teeth

RUFF wrote:

RUFF wrote:I have been running an 80 series Hi Pinion in my buggy since it was built. It only Weighs aprox 1400KG but i dont drive it nice. I am a little catious in Reverse sometimes I have not broke a single front centre however i brake a rear Low Pinion usually every event. The same front centre was in my Hilux as well with a Rover V8 and Dual Transfers.

Hmmm well after the last W.E.Rock round at Bathurst i beleived i had damaged a rear Crown and Pinion. So today i pulled it out to replace it and it was perfect. the same cant be said for the pair of axles that were replaced right before this event. They were both twisted. So i have this clunking noise that sounded like it was comming from the rear. I now know the rear diff is fine so my next thought was i had damaged my transfer. Dropped the belly plate off and pulled the inspection cover off my transfer. Everything is fine in there. So then i pull the front diff and its missing 3 teeth

damn unlucky ruff,

are u runnin the v6 centre in the rear.

dow50r wrote:

customhilux wrote:so i can still get 15's to fit if i just grind some of the caliper away.

yep, seen it done numerous times....as i said up there, the navara offset is the best, because it is a wider offset or deeper dish to std cruiser. If you use the cruiser offset, you need to grind more off...
Andrew

Would they be 15x8's with the Navara offset? I thought cruiser was the biggest offset (-25mm or 3 inch BS)... to mount them on the 80 diffs took quite a bit of grinding of the rear calipers.

slosh wrote:

dow50r wrote:

customhilux wrote:so i can still get 15's to fit if i just grind some of the caliper away.

yep, seen it done numerous times....as i said up there, the navara offset is the best, because it is a wider offset or deeper dish to std cruiser. If you use the cruiser offset, you need to grind more off...
Andrew

Would they be 15x8's with the Navara offset? I thought cruiser was the biggest offset (-25mm or 3 inch BS)... to mount them on the 80 diffs took quite a bit of grinding of the rear calipers.

Gday
was refering to the std 80 offset of 4 inch bs
the 40 series used the 3 inch bs i think...that would be close to thesame as the navara.