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24V / 12V winch power

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 9:36 pm
by toughnut
Here's one for all you auto leckie guru's. I wan't to run 24V through my 6hp motor winding in but I wan't to run 12V winding out. I was think of a switch of some sort before the solenoid pack so essentially 2 different voltages will run through the same solenoid pack. The reason for this being I've been told that you can run 24V through the 12V 6hp motors winding in but they self destruct if you use 24V winding out.

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 4:49 pm
by DCTECHO
yes running 24volts through 12volt series wound winch motor with no load on it will self destruct.
I would fit an extra double pole solenoid to change the supply to the existing winch solenoids and have an extra switch to operate it only when needed as I think continuosly running 24volts could damage the motor under light load conditions,I ll put some more thought into it but cant see it being to difficult.
(the supply to operate the solenoid coils is usually taken from one of the large terminals on the solenoid pack so this would need to be changed to avoid 24volts burning out the coils)
cheers scott

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:03 pm
by toughnut
I understand the bit about having a second solenoid to only run 24V when needed but can you say the rest in english? :roll:

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:05 pm
by toughnut
AAAhhh it doesn't matter I've got a leckie mate that can explain it to me in kindy terms. :oops: I like your idea though of only running 24V when needed. :D

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:06 pm
by chimpboy
This is gonna roast the motor whether it's going forward or backward.

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:01 pm
by Bush65
I haven't gone out and checked this, but I reckon what you may be able to do is:

As I understand the standard setup uses 2 solenoids to supply +ve supply to 1 of the 2 field terminals and the armature terminal. To change direction the other 2 solenoids supply +ve to the other field terminal and the armature terminal.

The single +ve battery cable is connected to the 4 solenoids by bus bars (straps).

Now for dual voltage, you want 2 separate battery cables and cut or re-arrange the bus bars (straps), so that one battery cable is only connected to the switched side of the 2 solenoids used for power in and the 2nd battery cable is only connected to the switched side of the 2 solenoids used for power out.

All 4 solenoids would still use 12v for energisation, only the switched side is divided between the separate battery cables.

Control wiring would not change.

Seems feasible to me, what do others with more electrical knowledge think.

As for frying the motor, I'm not getting into that discussion, only responding to the 1st post out of interest.

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:27 pm
by toughnut
Now that sounds doable. As for the motor I'm finding out more info. It was Dave Metcalfe that told me about using 24V on the 6 hp motor. A side not to this is that Matt Bolger and Cam Blackmore have a 6500lb T-Max low mount on the rear of their truck that is meant to be 12V but they run 24V through it with no adverse effects so far. The main thing here is that they don't use it very often. :roll:

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:40 pm
by mickyd555
im assuming it has somethiong to do with the fact that DC moters are also generators. and if ya spin a DC moter fast enough it will produce a higher voltage, im no guru on DC machines though........some one from a mine mite be able to explain it better, as far as i know thats about the only place there still used apart from cars