Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey peoples,

I need to put a thread into some alloy bar.I`ve cut the bar to length (35mm) and got the hole drilled into it (5.5mm) .Now when i was at school doing metal work ,when we used taps and dies we use a cutting compound of some sort,so what can i use at home,i`ve got never seize,oil,WD40,etc .I only need to do this 1 thread for this little part and my bike is up and running again .

use some oil

Thanks Tiny.

I`ll let you know how it goes when i get it done.

Yep, oil.

When i did my apprenticeship the instructor used spit if there was no tapping compound. I still do it this way from time to time and have no probs.

Tallow is the best stuff, it's just solid animal fat. So the next time your missus is down the supermarket get a block of monosaterated fat that they sell for deep fying stuff.
It works better than most stuff because it's solid when you put it on the tap & soon as you start to generate a little friction it melts & runs down to lubricate really well.
Cheers.

from a fitter machinsist,

i always use never seize if i don't have cutting fluid.

Thanks guys,its all done used a little oil .

Dad said to use neverseize but i thought it would be to thick and keep the shaveings then block up the grooves and wreck the thread.

As a fitter machinist Kero is an excellent cutting compount for Aluminium or at home i use CRC/WD40 ETC and works a treat, for cast iron no compound is used and steel is the one that realy needs a could compound ie Trefolex as steel blunts the tap and you tend to tear the metal and dont end up with a good tread finish.

Wally

i 2nd wd40 or kero for alloy

we use water for aluminium, keeps holesaws cool,fillings and swarthe(sp) don't clog the teeth and keeps the heat away from the saw teeth. (heat seems to kill the blades)
they banned trefolex on sites in vic. guys were using it with powered tools and aparently when the stuff is heated highly the fumes can be casonagenic(sp).
some dicks can't read the side of a tin that says for hand tools only and ruined it for all.
david

we use rocol at work. smells like shit, but does the job well. used it tapping stainless in the CNC and no dramas!

what about the actual drilling of the hole (in relatively thick steel) what do people use there?

Slow speed

skootin wrote:Slow speed

depends

size of hole... if theres a pilot hole or not your not going to put a 1mm bit through at 150 rpm

maths at this time im not going to bother with

umm cant remember the brand its red cutmax or somthing we use it on anything well besides plastic

Cossie wrote:what about the actual drilling of the hole (in relatively thick steel) what do people use there?

rocol, or lathe cum

customhilux wrote:

Cossie wrote:what about the actual drilling of the hole (in relatively thick steel) what do people use there?

rocol, or lathe cum

solubale oil... or chad spoonta...

or my favourite gas axe

Ingenious-Eng wrote:Tallow is the best stuff, it's just solid animal fat. So the next time your missus is down the supermarket get a block of monosaterated fat that they sell for deep fying stuff.
It works better than most stuff because it's solid when you put it on the tap & soon as you start to generate a little friction it melts & runs down to lubricate really well.
Cheers.

We do work for a place that produces tallow (turns it into dog food etc) and all the stuff they give us to fix smells great. The apprentice even found a cow tooth stuck behind one of the seals on there mincer and almost threw up lol he had to run outside real quick, It came out with all this black runny liquid its great

NOT

bringing this thread back up, can anyone give me hints and tips on tapping a thread?

i've got the output shafts from my tcase out, and i need to drill and tap them to make slipyoke eliminators. i've done the drilling part, but just after a general guide, and any industry tips on doin the thread so i dont fawk it all up

Ice wrote:
or my favourite gas axe

nah its the BLUE key

antt wrote:bringing this thread back up, can anyone give me hints and tips on tapping a thread?

i've got the output shafts from my tcase out, and i need to drill and tap them to make slipyoke eliminators. i've done the drilling part, but just after a general guide, and any industry tips on doin the thread so i dont fawk it all up

just remember, 1/3rd forward 2/3rds back, if it's a blind hole remove the tap, and clean the jizzim out of it. stops the thread from tearing.

customhilux wrote:

antt wrote:bringing this thread back up, can anyone give me hints and tips on tapping a thread?

i've got the output shafts from my tcase out, and i need to drill and tap them to make slipyoke eliminators. i've done the drilling part, but just after a general guide, and any industry tips on doin the thread so i dont fawk it all up

just remember, 1/3rd forward 2/3rds back, if it's a blind hole remove the tap, and clean the jizzim out of it. stops the thread from tearing.

Yeah you dont want to snap taps into tcases etc, i snapped a tap today, but lucky for me it was in SHS and i was almost through, a heavy sharp hammer blow sorted that out Always keep this in mind cos youll be pissed if it happens. Ive seen tap removers on the web but cant find them here, not cheap either.

Might be an idea to use a square to keep it all straight.

your tc shafts are goin to be hard to tap, ur better of takin it to a machine shop and have them set it up in a lathe to tap out, there is taps and there is taps so good luck.

basically make sure you are drilled to the correct size or slightly o/s

make sure the tap is square and use cutting compound

use a good name brand tap and be gently do it slowly

what size are you tapping it to ?

im not going to tell you how to screwcut an internal m10 thread either heheh thats just asking for trouble