Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The old faithfull (1992 HZJ75 ute) just clicked over 300,000kms & the timing belt light came on.

2 questions:

1. who here has the highest km's on their toyota?? (pics please)

2. Has anyone got any advice about changing the timing belt on a 1HZ motor?? I have a workshop manual, but if there are any little tricks to help the process I would be most appreciative.

Thanks in advance.

a coaster bus came through my dads work the other day and it had over 700,000 on it and they had just done a rebuild!. its got a 2H in it

my dad ownes bus runs and one of his coasters got 550 000 before it went. and it was driving a mountain every day. it was an 81 model and he owned it since new. typical toyota goes for ever.

the one that came through dads work goes between goldcoast and brisbane airports every day all day.

my 85 dual cab lux, 4Y has just gone 313,000ks, going harder than ever

My 1990 2L has done 560,000km and is still going strong!

gotoy wrote:My 1990 2L has done 560,000km and is still going strong!

ohhh

2L is a 2.8?

Nah, its a 2.4L D.

94' 80 series
262,000km. And feels like it's only just run in.

Can't post a pic, but my 1984 HJ60 with 2H just clicked over 370,000km and still runs like a new one.

my 80 series is still going, Rebuilt at 475 000 km's now is 520 000km's

Mytqik wrote:
2. Has anyone got any advice about changing the timing belt on a 1HZ motor?? I have a workshop manual, but if there are any little tricks to help the process I would be most appreciative.

Thanks in advance.

REPLACE THE TENSIONER!. in case you didn't hear me the first time, REPLACE THE TENSIONER! ok, the 1HZ is the easiest timing belt in the universe to change.

1. removing timing belt cover: 3 M6 (10mm head) bolts and 4 clips. it can be a bit fiddly/tight maneuvering the cover around some of the plumbing in the front of the motor.

2. rotate the crankshaft with a socket (32mm) to BOTTOM dead centre. there is a timing mark. use bottom dead centre because (a) all the pistons are away from TDC so can't crash a valve (b) there is no 'rocking' on the camshaft of fuel pump, making it easy to line up.

3. remove the bolt in the middle of the tensioner, with the spring - take it right out. all it does is damp out vibrations in the belt when the engine is running.

4. use a big screwdriver to lever the tensioner pulley away from the belt. very easy if you get it in the right place - the handle of the screwdriver will point to the left as you look at the front of the motor (ie towards the drivers side). the belt should now be floppy along the tensioner side. remove the belt. (an assistant is handy but not essential)

5. remove the other bolt holding the tensioner on (8mm allen key).

6. well.... you know.

7. fit new tensioner inluding spring. do not attempt to fit the friction damper (bolt with spring) at this time. Do up the Allen head bolt TIGHT.

8. rotate CAMSHAFT CLOCKWISE (as you look at it from the front of the motor) about 1mm relative to the timing mark - ie the timing mark should still be aligned with the right tooth on the sprocket, but 1mm out. this is essential for getting the new belt on.

9. using the big screwdriver, lever the tensioner pulley down as far as it will go, and fit up the new belt with the other hand. it may be necessary to wiggle it onto the fuel pump sprocket first then do the top sprocket and tensioner together.

10. release the tensioner and check that the timing marks are still aligned - rock the crankshaft back and forth a bit to make sure.

11. re-fit the friction damper (bolt with spring).

12. re-fit plastic timing cover.

should take no more than haf an hour.

cheers

Brian

91 model 80 series its done as the pic shows and still going strong

parents 60 has done close to 500 000 its a factory turbo on the 2h and its a beast still towing the 18ft caravan all over the place

kroozer91 wrote: parents 60 has done close to 500 000 its a factory turbo on the 2h and its a beast still towing the 18ft caravan all over the place

2H never came with a factory turbo. either it's a 2H with aftermarket turbo or a 12H-T?

dumbdunce wrote:

Mytqik wrote:
2. Has anyone got any advice about changing the timing belt on a 1HZ motor?? I have a workshop manual, but if there are any little tricks to help the process I would be most appreciative.

Thanks in advance.

REPLACE THE TENSIONER!. in case you didn't hear me the first time, REPLACE THE TENSIONER! ok, the 1HZ is the easiest timing belt in the universe to change.

1. removing timing belt cover: 3 M6 (10mm head) bolts and 4 clips. it can be a bit fiddly/tight maneuvering the cover around some of the plumbing in the front of the motor.

2. rotate the crankshaft with a socket (32mm) to BOTTOM dead centre. there is a timing mark. use bottom dead centre because (a) all the pistons are away from TDC so can't crash a valve (b) there is no 'rocking' on the camshaft of fuel pump, making it easy to line up.

3. remove the bolt in the middle of the tensioner, with the spring - take it right out. all it does is damp out vibrations in the belt when the engine is running.

4. use a big screwdriver to lever the tensioner pulley away from the belt. very easy if you get it in the right place - the handle of the screwdriver will point to the left as you look at the front of the motor (ie towards the drivers side). the belt should now be floppy along the tensioner side. remove the belt. (an assistant is handy but not essential)

5. remove the other bolt holding the tensioner on (8mm allen key).

6. well.... you know.

7. fit new tensioner inluding spring. do not attempt to fit the friction damper (bolt with spring) at this time. Do up the Allen head bolt TIGHT.

8. rotate CAMSHAFT CLOCKWISE (as you look at it from the front of the motor) about 1mm relative to the timing mark - ie the timing mark should still be aligned with the right tooth on the sprocket, but 1mm out. this is essential for getting the new belt on.

9. using the big screwdriver, lever the tensioner pulley down as far as it will go, and fit up the new belt with the other hand. it may be necessary to wiggle it onto the fuel pump sprocket first then do the top sprocket and tensioner together.

10. release the tensioner and check that the timing marks are still aligned - rock the crankshaft back and forth a bit to make sure.

11. re-fit the friction damper (bolt with spring).

12. re-fit plastic timing cover.

should take no more than haf an hour.

cheers

Brian

Brian with out a doubt you are the god of Toyota. Every time someone asks a question, you always seem to have a detailled & relevant response. Thank you for taking the time to reply & help me with my question.

My LN106 dual cab has just clocked over to 245000kms. It's still going strong! Probalby just run in i think. Haven't had a rebuild yet. Took it up from brissy to gladstone last weekend it was running beautifully. Good oil will keep a toyota going forever. My mate got 91 2.6L petrol Mazda Bravo and it's done 550000kms done 3 gearboxes but the motor is going perfect. Regular oil,air and fuel filter changes just keeps these machines ticking over perfectly.

I have a short wheel base landcruiser named roger our parts chaser it has 630,000 on the clock no photo cause my cameras at home

21yr old 3b with about 320 000kms..

fingers crossed it will go hard for many more km's to come

dumbdunce wrote:

kroozer91 wrote: parents 60 has done close to 500 000 its a factory turbo on the 2h and its a beast still towing the 18ft caravan all over the place

2H never came with a factory turbo. either it's a 2H with aftermarket turbo or a 12H-T?

oops my bad

Mytqik wrote:

dumbdunce wrote:

Mytqik wrote:
2. Has anyone got any advice about changing the timing belt on a 1HZ motor?? I have a workshop manual, but if there are any little tricks to help the process I would be most appreciative.

Thanks in advance.

REPLACE THE TENSIONER!. in case you didn't hear me the first time, REPLACE THE TENSIONER! ok, the 1HZ is the easiest timing belt in the universe to change.
tion damper (bolt with spring).

12. re-fit plastic timing cover.

should take no more than haf an hour.

cheers

Brian

Brian with out a doubt you are the god of Toyota. Every time someone asks a question, you always seem to have a detailled & relevant response. Thank you for taking the time to reply & help me with my question.

he's bloody good, ay. like the T1000 but instead of being a terminator of life hes the genious of Tojo

De-lux wrote:

Mytqik wrote:

dumbdunce wrote:

Mytqik wrote:
2. Has anyone got any advice about changing the timing belt on a 1HZ motor?? I have a workshop manual, but if there are any little tricks to help the process I would be most appreciative.

Thanks in advance.

REPLACE THE TENSIONER!. in case you didn't hear me the first time, REPLACE THE TENSIONER! ok, the 1HZ is the easiest timing belt in the universe to change.
tion damper (bolt with spring).

12. re-fit plastic timing cover.

should take no more than haf an hour.

cheers

Brian

Brian with out a doubt you are the god of Toyota. Every time someone asks a question, you always seem to have a detailled & relevant response. Thank you for taking the time to reply & help me with my question.

he's bloody good, ay. like the T1000 but instead of being a terminator of life hes the genious of Tojo

But he smells kinda funny....keep away from him in real life

MY45 wrote: But he smells kinda funny....keep away from him in real life

If I charged more for my advice, I'd be able to afford new underpants :(

Here's my HJ60. Just about to turn over 560,000.
I purchased it from the original owner with 528,000 2.5 years ago.
original motor and head, 2nd gearbox. uses no oil.
Religously serviced by the same mechanic since new, oil changes every 4K.
12l/100 with 206c tyres.
14/l100 with 235/85 R16
since i've had it , replaced water pump, power stear pump. swivel hub seals.

good my 13bt is only a baby 137000kays has anybody got with 500000 + kays just curious

Mytqik wrote:
Brian with out a doubt you are the god of Toyota. Every time someone asks a question, you always seem to have a detailled & relevant response. Thank you for taking the time to reply & help me with my question.

I second that thought. Good to have his depth of knowledge here!

Dave

dumbdunce wrote:
7. fit new tensioner inluding spring. do not attempt to fit the friction damper (bolt with spring) at this time. Do up the Allen head bolt TIGHT.

8. rotate CAMSHAFT CLOCKWISE (as you look at it from the front of the motor) about 1mm relative to the timing mark - ie the timing mark should still be aligned with the right tooth on the sprocket, but 1mm out. this is essential for getting the new belt on.

9. using the big screwdriver, lever the tensioner pulley down as far as it will go, and fit up the new belt with the other hand. it may be necessary to wiggle it onto the fuel pump sprocket first then do the top sprocket and tensioner together.

Well, thanks to dumbdunce & my faithful gregorys manual I replaced my timing belt & tensioner last night.

The only thing I would add is:

1. I found it much easier to slide the end of the spring off its mount to release the tension, then pull the belt & tensioner off.

I also didn't wind the motor around to BDC, I hit the key until is was close, then used liquid paper to marked the camshaft mark on the block behind. (this saved gettin under & removing my huge bash plate, so I could wind the crank around.)

2. While I rotated the camshaft clockwise 1mm (great tip Brian, no mention of it in the gregory's)) to allow the shorter belt to fit, I think the timing mark now lines up with the left hand tooth, not the right hand tooth as described above.

3. To install I found it much easier to install the allen key bolt & spring on the tensioner, then wrap the belt around the fuel pump sprocket, then the camshaft sproket. I then used a 20mm spanner the lever the tensioner down & slide the belt on.

I found using a screwdriver was too hard as the handle on my screwdrivers were too big to fit. I placed the spanner under camshaft sproket & above the tensioner & pushed down, it was alot easier than I thought it would be. I then slid half of the belt onto the tensioner, removed the spanner & then slide the rest of the belt onto the tensioner.

Job done - 45mins inc beer & rain break.

I also found that my fan clutch is competely stuffed. It is locked solid & you can see were it has chewed the shaft that it runs on, to off to REPCO again.

While I was under the motor assessing if it would be worthwhile pulling my bash plate off, I noticed that my passenger side sway bar rubber is completely missing, the one between the diff housing & the bar. Now I know what that occasional knocking noise is in the front end. Off to REPCO again again. They must rub their hand together every time I walk in the door.

when i was working at toyota a bj40 came in with the customer saying it is a little down on power checked it out and was down on compresion on one cylinder speedo read 975000 kms we were all astounded toyota did a write up in there magazine and offered him a new engine for half the price as ot had been serviced by a toyota dealer all its life true fact

My 3b has 530000 on it now. but i found a 13bt so i'm putting it in. 3b was reco about 100000 ago and still going fine. had PS pump done and reco gear box earlier this year. so the new power plant should be good. Can't wait.

OK NOT MINE BUT A MATE OF MINE HAS A 93 TROOPCARIER 1HZ MOTOR WITH 1 360 200 K'S ON THE CLOCK AND HAS NEVER HAD A REBUILD. DAM THO THATS OVER A MILION K'S

Yer... there was a story in Outback Magazine i think about a early 75 series that had gone over 1 million k's, was a convoy ute for a heavy haulage company. On its 2nd gearbox i think.


In retrospect, my 86' 2L has only just gone over 260,000.

Had the pump built recently, and the mechanic told me it was the lowest he had seen in a long time.