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lockright vs arb front or back
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
lockright vs arb front or back
heres the deal
have got a hilux with a V6
will be spinning 35
light tray
i don't plan to be driving excessively on road. what would you do? i have an air locker and a lockright locker and not sure which one to put where. i'm tempted to run the air locker in the front and lockright in the rear so it'll turn when i want it to off road but on road, it's light in the back end and i'm wondering if the lockright will be a pig on the road.
what are your thoughts?
cheers joel
have got a hilux with a V6
will be spinning 35
light tray
i don't plan to be driving excessively on road. what would you do? i have an air locker and a lockright locker and not sure which one to put where. i'm tempted to run the air locker in the front and lockright in the rear so it'll turn when i want it to off road but on road, it's light in the back end and i'm wondering if the lockright will be a pig on the road.
what are your thoughts?
cheers joel
a lockright in the rear still has a considerable negative effect on your offroad steering, remember it is LOCKED until one wheel is forced to turn FASTER than the carrier, so for all intents and purposes, off road it is LOCKED all the time, and will cause the front wheels to push (understeer) whether they are driven or not. Your best offroad steering option is lockright front, where you can fiddle steer by unlocking hubs if you need to, airlocker rear. The bigger your tyres, the bigger the 'lurch' when a lockright disengages on-road - and with 31's it bearable, but when 35's it starts to get uncontrollable - a welded rear is more controllable and obviously more predictable. Knowing that you will drive it HARD on-road, having a lockright in the rear is not a safe or sensible option.
adding weight to increase traction is as sensible as carring a heavy bag to make you walk better - it just makes the engine and driveline work harder. set up the suspension correctly for the weight distribution of the vehicle as it stands.
adding weight to increase traction is as sensible as carring a heavy bag to make you walk better - it just makes the engine and driveline work harder. set up the suspension correctly for the weight distribution of the vehicle as it stands.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
I found the exact opposite to be true in my Zuk ... with the auto locker in back I barely noticed it with 32 BF's with 33 swampers it was basically transparent except in the carpark where it would pop in and out, when I dropped back to 31's it was a nightmare .. lurched all over the place..dumbdunce wrote: The bigger your tyres, the bigger the 'lurch' when a lockright disengages on-road - and with 31's it bearable, but when 35's it starts to get uncontrollable - a welded rear is more controllable and obviously more predictable. ..
welded rear was pretty easy to live with though ..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
air locker in the front, lockright in rear. BUT i dont understand all the talk about lockrights in the front being hard to steer. I have had 3 cars, 1 with air lockers and 2 with lock rights and the only time i have had trouble turning is with the Air lockers in. Now most of you would say"turn it off to turn" but I never have had trouble with the Lockright in turning and i cant turn that off. I have driven em both in Toolangi rocks and mud and Warby slippery red mud, and i would never buy an air locker over a lockright.
1) the lockright costs around 600 compared to the airlocker 1300ish?
2)lockright,no playing round, just driving. AIR locker switch on, start up hill,switch off, take turn, switch on continue up. STUFF THAT!
thats all cheers
1) the lockright costs around 600 compared to the airlocker 1300ish?
2)lockright,no playing round, just driving. AIR locker switch on, start up hill,switch off, take turn, switch on continue up. STUFF THAT!
thats all cheers
of course it is - but the places where you need to turn that tight, you probably already have a spotter out of the car, and if you've got the air locker in the front and the lockright in the rear, you're gettiing out of the car at the same point anyway to figure out how the hell you're going to turn around. It's not the "easiest" option but it is the option that provides the most predictable performance on and off road, and the tightest turning radius on and off road. Of course this whole discussion could be avoided if stumpy wasn't such a cheap biAtch and just bought a second airlocker.MQ080 wrote:This idea is oftern mentioned but that's alot of effort.dumbdunce wrote:where you can fiddle steer by unlocking hubs if you need to
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
I have a lockright in the front and have found no steering loss when in 4wd except for sloppy deep mud where steering loss is common even without a locker. Under very steep climbing situations where one has to turn they are great as they unlock as required and immediately relock.
Can't praise mine enough but then it's only done 120 thousand.
Hope this helps.
Can't praise mine enough but then it's only done 120 thousand.
Hope this helps.
Gotta Getaway
I will only agree on this point!dumbdunce wrote:Of course this whole discussion could be avoided if stumpy wasn't such a cheap biAtch and just bought a second airlocker.MQ080 wrote:This idea is oftern mentioned but that's alot of effort.dumbdunce wrote:where you can fiddle steer by unlocking hubs if you need to
I don't own a locker at all at the moment but it seems whenever I look in this section there is questions on problems people are having with air lockers. I know everyone is going to say thats because there is so many more out there but there is still a lot of lokka's and lockrights around but don't seem to see many people having problems with them. For instance there is two different threads as i type this on air locker problems. Are they really that great a locker. I'm not convinced yet which way to go yet. The best thing I can see with the airlocker is the ability to turn on and off when required. Reliability is a big thing however and there is a lot to go wrong with the air locker. With that and the overpricing I'm just not sure they are worth the bucks.MQ080 wrote:I will only agree on this point!dumbdunce wrote:Of course this whole discussion could be avoided if stumpy wasn't such a cheap biAtch and just bought a second airlocker.MQ080 wrote:This idea is oftern mentioned but that's alot of effort.dumbdunce wrote:where you can fiddle steer by unlocking hubs if you need to
1989 Ford Maverick Turbo Diesel Tourer
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
i will agree tooMQ080 wrote:I will only agree on this point!dumbdunce wrote:Of course this whole discussion could be avoided if stumpy wasn't such a cheap biAtch and just bought a second airlocker.MQ080 wrote:This idea is oftern mentioned but that's alot of effort.dumbdunce wrote:where you can fiddle steer by unlocking hubs if you need to
at the price i paid, i really couldn't go past it. any way, its not like i'm ever actually drive offroad cos i'll be fixing it all the time
Road Ranger
the probs tend to be intalation issues, and other side issues due to set up as opposed to functional issues or breakeges.BigMav wrote:I don't own a locker at all at the moment but it seems whenever I look in this section there is questions on problems people are having with air lockers. I know everyone is going to say thats because there is so many more out there but there is still a lot of lokka's and lockrights around but don't seem to see many people having problems with them. For instance there is two different threads as i type this on air locker problems. Are they really that great a locker. I'm not convinced yet which way to go yet. The best thing I can see with the airlocker is the ability to turn on and off when required. Reliability is a big thing however and there is a lot to go wrong with the air locker. With that and the overpricing I'm just not sure they are worth the bucks.MQ080 wrote:I will only agree on this point!dumbdunce wrote:Of course this whole discussion could be avoided if stumpy wasn't such a cheap biAtch and just bought a second airlocker.MQ080 wrote:This idea is oftern mentioned but that's alot of effort.dumbdunce wrote:where you can fiddle steer by unlocking hubs if you need to
In saying that I am prolly going the TJM lockers and see how they go. I would expect some teething issues in the set up but we will see how they go
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Tiny wrote:the probs tend to be intalation issues, and other side issues due to set up as opposed to functional issues or breakeges.BigMav wrote:I don't own a locker at all at the moment but it seems whenever I look in this section there is questions on problems people are having with air lockers. I know everyone is going to say thats because there is so many more out there but there is still a lot of lokka's and lockrights around but don't seem to see many people having problems with them. For instance there is two different threads as i type this on air locker problems. Are they really that great a locker. I'm not convinced yet which way to go yet. The best thing I can see with the airlocker is the ability to turn on and off when required. Reliability is a big thing however and there is a lot to go wrong with the air locker. With that and the overpricing I'm just not sure they are worth the bucks.MQ080 wrote:I will only agree on this point!dumbdunce wrote:Of course this whole discussion could be avoided if stumpy wasn't such a cheap biAtch and just bought a second airlocker.MQ080 wrote: This idea is oftern mentioned but that's alot of effort.
In saying that I am prolly going the TJM lockers and see how they go. I would expect some teething issues in the set up but we will see how they go
I agree, most problems I've heard about are due to poor instalation.. not the actual locker. Ask around, it quickly becomes clear where you should and shouldn't get them installed. I've had mine in for over a year and haven't had a thing go wrong. (Installed at Gympie ARB) If, as you say you don't plan to be driving excessively on road I'd put the air locker in the front, and weld your rear, that way you don't have to worry about the lockright being a pig on the road, and by the sounds of it, the rear is light enough so it won't cause excessive tyre wear. Then re-coup some cash and sell the lockright! Problem solved
92 Sierra
Toyota 4AGE
2 inch body lift
2 in Dobinson springs
31 Bfg's A/T
Rear ARB locker
Sliders
Toyota 4AGE
2 inch body lift
2 in Dobinson springs
31 Bfg's A/T
Rear ARB locker
Sliders
n-dorphin,
Does not change a thing.
If you have an air locker you must engage the front hubs before locking the diff.
With lockright locker you just do everything as normal. IE it's a fully auto set up engaged at all times except when required to diferentiate when turning.
Mine is a lockright and it's great. as said above.
Does not change a thing.
If you have an air locker you must engage the front hubs before locking the diff.
With lockright locker you just do everything as normal. IE it's a fully auto set up engaged at all times except when required to diferentiate when turning.
Mine is a lockright and it's great. as said above.
Gotta Getaway
sorry to restart an old thread but i thought i would use the search option instead of starting a new one.
I am considering putting Detroits instead of ARB's front and rear in a GQ as i think they will be better to use no stuffing around with locker buttons and air hoses and compressors (to much stuff to go wrong)
Is there any difference between the detroits and the Lockright? what would be the better way to go with an auto locker?
I am considering putting Detroits instead of ARB's front and rear in a GQ as i think they will be better to use no stuffing around with locker buttons and air hoses and compressors (to much stuff to go wrong)
Is there any difference between the detroits and the Lockright? what would be the better way to go with an auto locker?
detroits are much stronger than lockrights, they replace the entire hemisphere, lockrights only replace the gears inside. they are also smoother and quieter than the lockright as the ramping and locking/ratcheting actions are separated - on the lockright the same set of teeth is used to accomplish both. The on-road manners of the detroit however still leaves a lot to be desired so you may not be 100% happy with how it drives on-road. Detroits are very expensive compared to lockrights - they are aimilarly priced to airlockers. The downsides of the airlocker you have expressed are there - they are more complex and there is more to go wrong, but they air locker is stronger again, you have the advantage of controlling when it is on or off, and you get the bonus of an air compressor for air ups ets thrown in. There are downsides to all auto lockers including poor steering response in most offroad situations and poor side-slope performance (causing side-sliding) in low traction situations. If you can, try and get a drive of a vehicle with auto lockers, and a vehicle with manual lockers, on and off road, before making your decision.Kruza wrote:sorry to restart an old thread but i thought i would use the search option instead of starting a new one.
I am considering putting Detroits instead of ARB's front and rear in a GQ as i think they will be better to use no stuffing around with locker buttons and air hoses and compressors (to much stuff to go wrong)
Is there any difference between the detroits and the Lockright? what would be the better way to go with an auto locker?
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
definately drive an auto locked vehicle first
i have a detroit in the rear of my 40 (real cheap off ebay) i was scared of them from the bum wrap they get... but... on my almost shagged AT's it chirps if i put the boot in for 90 degree corners.
on my bro's claws, i can't feel it at all, except offroad where there is a distinct "push" feeling. tires are the same size, but with the claws, only time i know it's there is during U turns where i get a faint clicking noise.
this is on a 40 without power steering. so consider that tires can make the biggest difference
i have a detroit in the rear of my 40 (real cheap off ebay) i was scared of them from the bum wrap they get... but... on my almost shagged AT's it chirps if i put the boot in for 90 degree corners.
on my bro's claws, i can't feel it at all, except offroad where there is a distinct "push" feeling. tires are the same size, but with the claws, only time i know it's there is during U turns where i get a faint clicking noise.
this is on a 40 without power steering. so consider that tires can make the biggest difference
Spit my last breath
I am thinking to purchase a LOCKRIGHT for the front myself, for bothe budget and simplicity reasons, but found these thoughts interestingly conflicting.
http://www.ebroadcast.com.au/ecars/A/Di ... aders.html
http://secure.turbonet.com.au/discuss/m ... 8/314.html
http://www.ebroadcast.com.au/ecars/A/Di ... aders.html
http://secure.turbonet.com.au/discuss/m ... 8/314.html
Last edited by muddyperils on Sat Jul 16, 2005 11:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
GQ TOURER
Thankful to be able to use the tracks that are left....SHEET where are they........
Thankful to be able to use the tracks that are left....SHEET where are they........
Nice link! In snow country, where you're in and out of low traction situations all day everyday, I can see the attraction of an autolocker - you don't have to think about it.
I think the weight of the vehicle needs to be considered. A heavy vehicle exerts more force on tyres, so they will grip terrain better than a light vehicle. So in a heavy vehicle an autolocker will be more inclined to unlock than cause a wheel to spin. The lighter the vehicle, the more unpredictable it may become.
I've got an ARB in the front (and don't get to use it enough ) but still have the factory LSD in the rear - because I've yet to find the need for anything better. When I need something better I'll seriously consider an autolocker, because I find the "always on" bit attractive.
Scott
I think the weight of the vehicle needs to be considered. A heavy vehicle exerts more force on tyres, so they will grip terrain better than a light vehicle. So in a heavy vehicle an autolocker will be more inclined to unlock than cause a wheel to spin. The lighter the vehicle, the more unpredictable it may become.
I've got an ARB in the front (and don't get to use it enough ) but still have the factory LSD in the rear - because I've yet to find the need for anything better. When I need something better I'll seriously consider an autolocker, because I find the "always on" bit attractive.
Scott
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