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BODY LIFT

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 7:00 pm
by 4x4xmore
I AM CONSIDERING DOING A BODY LIFT BUT NOT QUITE SURE EXACTLY WHATS INVOLVED. i WILL BE ATTEMPTING THIS MYSELF SO AS MUCH INFO AS I COULD RECEIVE WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL. I DOESNT LOOK TO DIFFICULT AS I HAVE HAD A QUICK LOOK UNDERNEATH BUT NOT SURE IF BRAKE LINES/ FUEL LINES/ STEERING NEEDS TO BE ALTERED

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 7:11 pm
by flynn
spartacus got 2" body on his rocky and im pretty sure it was sweet but i think any bigger and it might not work.

if that helps :roll:

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 7:16 pm
by 4x4xmore
THANKS

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 8:27 pm
by TX4000
Basically its a matter of putting riser blocks under all main body to chassis rail mounting points, However... there are things like brake hoses, handbrake cables, gear levers, clutch cables, etc etc.. all no major problem at 2 inch lift or so... BUT the steering column is the main issue with my F20 project.. its gonna need extending and welding etc is out of the question. I'm thinking a normal car column (with trendy controls even) could be the go (sports wheel !!?? :) ) My main concern is the riser blocks strength, type of bolt used, and the column.. other than that perhaps raising the bull bar, and some side steps for mum :)

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:08 pm
by 4x4xmore
:) thanks are you aware of what specifacations and type of material is required for the risers blocks and longer bolts :?:

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:08 pm
by Dangerous Dave
Hey I've done a 2" body lift on my feroza. You'll have no problems. The only thing you'll have to extend is your four wheel drive gear stick.

I made my lift blocks out of nylon rod, avaliable from Consolodated Bearing Company. I replaced all the body lift bolts with 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts and nuts. You will have to drill out the holes in the body and the existing washers with a drill bit a little larger than 1/2 inch obviously! You will also have to cut 2 holes in the rear, pretty much directly below the rear door when its closed. You'll have to do this so you can put the new bolts in the the two rear mounting points.



AND STOP TYPING WITH CAPS LOCK ON...

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:34 pm
by HeathGQ
No. 1 - Get DOT approval before you do it. There is a form you fill out, details of materials and whats being changed, they give you approval to od the mod, and then you go in for insp and they approve the BL. In QLD must be steel or aluminium. Change the bolts to hi-tensile.

There is a bit of info in the FAQ section regarding BL's. ANyfurther Q's, dont hestitate.

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 9:56 pm
by 4x4xmore
thanks guys all info is greatly appreciated.will be attempting this in the next month or so

any tips on extending the transfer case shifter


:lol: look no caps :lol:

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 8:06 am
by Dangerous Dave
To extend the transfer case shifter...

The old studs/nuts that are in your body mount points at the moment are the same thread type as the one on you transfer case shifter. So, wind a nut half of the way onto the shifter thread then wind one of the studs into the other end of the nut, put ya gear stick on and presto!

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 11:00 am
by 4x4xmore
thanks handy tip did you have to lower your radiator or is it allright to leave it where it is

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 12:20 pm
by rOd
ferozaman wrote:thanks handy tip did you have to lower your radiator or is it allright to leave it where it is
The fan will probably slice the bottom radiator hose if you dont lower the radiator accordingly.

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 6:38 pm
by 4x4xmore
rOd wrote:
ferozaman wrote:thanks handy tip did you have to lower your radiator or is it allright to leave it where it is
The fan will probably slice the bottom radiator hose if you dont lower the radiator accordingly.
:roll: :roll: shit never gave that any thought

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 6:53 pm
by murcod
Good time to convert to an electric thermo! ;)

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 8:16 pm
by Dangerous Dave
All i did was cut the bottom out of the shroud. I left everything else as is and I've had no problems!

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 8:42 pm
by 4x4xmore
:!: what are the thoughts on completely removing the radiator shroud

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 8:45 pm
by murcod
It's there to ensure the fan draws air through the radiator- rather than just blowing it around the engine bay. I wouldn't remove it, try and relocate the radiator if you can.

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 9:21 pm
by 4x4xmore
ok thanks

LIFT IT

Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 1:42 pm
by MINI_DOZER
Hey all, I lifted my Froza 3" with a body lift and it was a piece of cake, well almost.

3" steel rod with high tensile bolts and keep the rubber insertion or bush.

I made some simple brackets to drop the radiator down to the fan at first but not long after added a thermo fan and a switch which was soldered into the radiator (done properly). two brackets were made from alloy and polished to drop the fuel filter and something else in the engine bay (can't remmember of hand). Earth from engine to firewall was remade with some 4mm cable. Brake lines (steel) are coiled at the front and just need some gentle expansion. Rear brake lines reach OK even with 2"suspension lift as well. Everything else except for the Transfer Case lever remains pretty well untouched. If you lift the radiator you will need to play with the hoses, no biggy though. I don't know about the standard air filter arrangement as I've got a pod filter and pipe set up, so some modding may be required in that area?

If I recall anything else I will post it up.

Re: LIFT IT

Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 10:41 pm
by 4x4xmore
MINI_DOZER wrote:Hey all, I lifted my Froza 3" with a body lift and it was a piece of cake, well almost.

3" steel rod with high tensile bolts and keep the rubber insertion or bush.

I made some simple brackets to drop the radiator down to the fan at first but not long after added a thermo fan and a switch which was soldered into the radiator (done properly). two brackets were made from alloy and polished to drop the fuel filter and something else in the engine bay (can't remmember of hand). Earth from engine to firewall was remade with some 4mm cable. Brake lines (steel) are coiled at the front and just need some gentle expansion. Rear brake lines reach OK even with 2"suspension lift as well. Everything else except for the Transfer Case lever remains pretty well untouched. If you lift the radiator you will need to play with the hoses, no biggy though. I don't know about the standard air filter arrangement as I've got a pod filter and pipe set up, so some modding may be required in that area?

If I recall anything else I will post it up.

thanks :turn-l: