Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am looking at purchasing an LS 400 which has the 4 litre V8.

Some of the forum members have installed them in 4x4's,

Need to know if these motors are awkward to work on.

Is the valve clearance controlled by hydraulic lifters or shimmed.

Plugs and leads. Are they expensive items or readily available.
Same for fan belt or cam belt.

If regularly serviced what condition would you expect them to be at 200,000 km's.

Regards


RN

Fan belt is the same as 100 series, I know I just got a new one the other day. Leads I haven`t looked into yet but I`ll guess they are the same.

I dont know if this will help you out but it might be worth a look

http://lextreme.com/forums/

Guts wrote:Fan belt is the same as 100 series, I know I just got a new one the other day. Leads I haven`t looked into yet but I`ll guess they are the same.

Thats interesting, I was about to start searching for that answer. Which 80 series motor is it the same as? The 2UZ?
I'm getting my half cut very soon, and obvioulsy planned on changing it out first.


As to the original question, I'm not sure about the lifters etc. But I have read a 1000 times that the 1UZ is supposedly one of the most bulletproof "over engineered" motors ever built.......

-Nemesis- wrote:Thats interesting, I was about to start searching for that answer. Which 80 series motor is it the same as? The 2UZ?

Same as the V8 (2UZ) 100 series.

The Lexus V8 is a sweeet engine!

As Nemisis stated, they are an overengineered engine.

Standard they are meant to have 6 bolt mains studs, steel crank, and TOUGH rods. Like other Toyota petrol engines they are bulletproof. I know the ricer boys bolt 600-700 HP turbo kits on the side og the 2.5 & 3.0 ltr sixes, with the internals stock, even headgaskets, and they LAST. The V8 is built along the same lines.

I've seen a supercharged Lexus V8 in a ski boat, pumping 900+ HP on methanol, with a stock crank and rods......

The Lexus V8 is a sweeet engine!

As Nemisis stated, they are an overengineered engine.

Standard they are meant to have 6 bolt mains studs, steel crank, and TOUGH rods. Like other Toyota petrol engines they are bulletproof. I know the ricer boys bolt 600-700 HP turbo kits on the side og the 2.5 & 3.0 ltr sixes, with the internals stock, even headgaskets, and they LAST. The V8 is built along the same lines.

I've seen a supercharged Lexus V8 in a ski boat, pumping 900+ HP on methanol, with a stock crank and rods......

Thanks guys, I new they were a great engine, but just wanted to gets some insight into the maintenance and servicing costs.

I checked with a Lexus dealer and they want 900 big ones for a 200K service. Stuff that.

Probably get one anyway and shop around and do most myself .

cheers

RN

the standard bottom end is built to handle 800hp from the factory

leads are pretty expensive bout $400 a set, are you using a manual or auto box, if you want to use a manual box look at getting an early crown front cut they have 2 seperate computers in them 1 for engine, 1for box, all the others run a single integrated computer for engine and box and are a mongrel to make them run with a manual

Either that, or you can go aftermarket ECU's. Cheapest would be Link. Wolf 3D prob best value for money, about $1500 fittedor so, I think.

He`s getting a full car not a half cut.

Thanks GUTS, I was going to post that but thought...I appreciate the feedback.

I wanted to know whether the car needs a lot of TLC. I know that they are a bulletproof engine, but do the tappets have to be set regularly i.e. shimmed or are they hydraulic lifters. Are the filters a special order or everyday Toyota parts?

Spark Plugs. Are they the platinum ones or are they regular but with a special Lexus price.

You know every day tuning /maintenance issues.

They are a fantastic car to drive, so smooth and quiet then again you would expect that from a 150K new car price.

Cheers

RN

Sorry, I misunderstood.....

Maybe you can contact importers, or check out internet forums dealing with grey imports, as the Lexus Soarers came out with the same V8. It shouldn't be too hard to find stuff that you want to know about.

They respond well to a Unichip, but you are looking at $1200 fitted.

I would also recommend a different exhaust.

yes they have shims

Guts wrote:

-Nemesis- wrote:Thats interesting, I was about to start searching for that answer. Which 80 series motor is it the same as? The 2UZ?

Same as the V8 (2UZ) 100 series.

I have no idea why I wrote 80 series there

Mico wrote:if you want to use a manual box look at getting an early crown front cut they have 2 seperate computers in them 1 for engine, 1for box, all the others run a single integrated computer for engine and box and are a mongrel to make them run with a manual

Thats a contradiction from what the guy who's going to wire mine told me. When asked if I was running my manual or an auto, and I answered Manual, he confirmed that it will be easy and won't matter which type 1UZ I get. And he knows, he has one in his own 2WD Lux....

The combined ECU ECT can be used if you are using a man behind the V8, but a seperate ECU and ECT makes it easier for the do it yourselfer as you just don`t use the ECT and the ECU doesn`t even know the ECT isn`t there. With the combined ECU/ECT you have to do something to make it think the auto is in neutral.

Yeah that makes sense. For the sake of the cost for Sideshow to do it all, and the time i'd save (it's my daily runner too) i'm not going to bother doing it myself. There's not a heap available at the moment, most places don't have any 1UZ's currently. The best priced one i've found is a Soarer, which is mid sump unfortunately. The only front sumps i've found are $700 + more........

mid sump is a crown, rear sump is a soarer, front sump is a celsior/LS400.

Hmmm... Goes back to check email....

I wonder how the rear sump works on the IFS, I hear the mid sump apparently fouls the diff.

front sump will clear i think, rear won't, mine is a mid sump with 2" bodylift it sits above the diff and just clears the bonnet

I have a mid sump (if you need it) sitting on the floor in front of my lux (everything except the oil pickup) as my CRS rear sump should be turning up tomorrow

Twisty tells me that the mid and rears will foul on the diff.
The front sumpers are more expensive though. I have to weigh up the cost of modifying a rear/mid or try and source and pay through the teeth for the front. I can't imagine modifying the sump could be too expensive. Pretty sure i can get the labour cheap, it's just the designing and trials....

if you want a forum that has a lot of info about the lexus quad cam v8 check out these guys they are very good http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php? ... 4d5b574d07

Yes the mid-sump will foul on the diff even with a 2" body lift. As with Twisty, I used a 2" body lift and a front sump and it sits approx 20-30 above the steering arm.

As a word of warning, this is not a easy coversion as some people say it is. In the whole scheme of things, it is 'fairly' easy, but then the difficulty rating lies in your own skills.

Any more photo's you want, let me know.

Cheers.

TEXAS wrote:Yes the mid-sump will foul on the diff even with a 2" body lift. As with Twisty, I used a 2" body lift and a front sump and it sits approx 20-30 above the steering arm.

As a word of warning, this is not a easy coversion as some people say it is. In the whole scheme of things, it is 'fairly' easy, but then the difficulty rating lies in your own skills.

Any more photo's you want, let me know.

Cheers.

thats interesting you should say that, becuase everyone reckons its easy as piss, but i am sceptical, but confident.

I think it would largely depend on how much you do yourself. I know yours is added in complexity Texas as you're doing it all yourself, plus choosing the auto route.
Though i'm getting the basic motor fitted (mounts etc) and the wiring done by others to save time as it's my daily driver normally. And hopefully the Dellows kit for my gearbox will bolt up nicely and we should be sweet.
Then it's all the fidelly junk to get it all perfect like cooling etc.....

I spend a lot of time trying to get a rear sump, and I could not prove that one really exists, after everyone telling me there was a front, mid and rear sump I could not find any Toyota model that had one. I saw 2 "rear sumps" which turned out to be mid sumps. Only the Rod Shop had a custom rear sump around $600.

I have a 1UZ-FE in my GQ, with Nissan manual, and it appeared OK but I bottomed out recently which crushed the front brake line. The solution is to fit longer bump stops and put longer springs in, which I am about to do. Also a rear sump would not have helped.

I have also found the idle-control-valve ICV is not working and apparently this is a common problem but not a biggy. (If anyone knows about these please let me know, I pulled it apart and everything looks OK)

I have a mid sump with 2" bodylift and it clears the diff (by 10mm) and the bonnet (just)