Outer Limits 4x4 Board

going to be stripping my truck back for some serious mods over the coming weeks/months and once i've finished the chassis was gunna get sandblasted and painted, but the old man had the idea of getting it hot dip galvanised instead

does anyone know if this will affect the temper of the steel, or any other adverse affects, and if it can be done legally???

Pain in the ass if you have to mod it later on. Specially if you are arc welding

It can be done but if you ever want to modify it again by either cutting or welding it then you wasted your time and money. You would be better off just getting it sandblasted and then paint it with Killrust and then give it a good coat in chassie black.

I wouldn't do it man, hot dip has a tendency to bend things(maybe not a chassis) so I can't see it being legal.

Bring the chassis out to me and I'll blast it for you and have it painted really cheap.

p.s., we gotta talk about these tyres soon. I will PM

im glad this Q came up, i was gonna just hot dip mine without a second thought. what is the best thing to do to keep the inside of the rails protected, i know you can clean them, but you can never be 100%sure that its clean properly

yeah i was thinkin that, it would be a bit of a pain in the ass

no wukka's i'll just paint it

cheers guys

thats why the old man suggested it cause the gal would coat the inside as well

Just while sand blasting has been mentioned...

What is an appriximate rough cost to have a chassis sand blasted?

Is it worth while doing in general?

Dave.

Elmo wrote:thats why the old man suggested it cause the gal would coat the inside as well

this was my toughts...........the only other way i have thought of doing it is to put a sprinkler system through it (yes a garden sprinkler) and have some sort of head on it to spray lanolin or something like that in side of it. you eould need to feed the pipe up the chassis and muck around a bit, but once its in all you need to do is connect a pressure pump thing (like the ones you use to spray the garden) and pump the lanolin through.......anyone else got any ideas

Sorry,

A friend just had his new LR chassis Gal dipped last week.
He is very conservative with mods, so this is a good choice for him

Cost roughly $800 or so.

Dave.

thats not a bad idea actually, i've only ever used a high pressure gurni, with boiling hot water and either degreaser or soap or similar depending on the area i was trying to clean

using lanolin would certainly have a distinct advantage

$800 isnt too bad, a little more than i was expecting, but still quite reasonable

Copper pipe is easy to bend you would just drill holes pointing at different angles every 100mm solder a fitting to the end and crimp the other.
Hot dipping the chassis requires a lot of prep as it moats all the threads for bolts and all the holes would need to be drilled bigger so that bolts will go back through afterwards. You can't go past killrust black and penatrol for the inside.

Elmo wrote:thats not a bad idea actually, i've only ever used a high pressure gurni, with boiling hot water and either degreaser or soap or similar depending on the area i was trying to clean

using lanolin would certainly have a distinct advantage

$800 isnt too bad, a little more than i was expecting, but still quite reasonable

i actually got the idea from some niff nuff that was trying to sell me a "rust protection" he explained to me exactly what he was gonna do, so i said " why cant i just do that myself......."

the look on his face.........priceless

classic

DaveS3 wrote:Sorry,

A friend just had his new LR chassis Gal dipped last week.
He is very conservative with mods, so this is a good choice for him

Cost roughly $800 or so.

Dave.

$800

My boss won't personally tell me what he charges though.....

Hiluxmadness off this board was quoted $50 an hour for blasting(too cheap IMO) and Helmut from work reckons $800 a tonne.

Don't know who is acurate but all I can say to this is that a chassis would be lucky to take one person 20mins to blast.

I can sort yours out a whole lot cheaper than you think though Elmo, if you wanna blast and paint give me a call. Pretty much a foreign order hopefully

In the dvd "A 4x4 is Born" he gets the chassis hot dipped and he goes over all the prep and finish work required. But like the others have said its a waste once you modify the chassis after the process. If you're doing some major mods now that require a full strip down chances are later you will be playing around with the chassis in some way.

stuee wrote:In the dvd "A 4x4 is Born" he gets the chassis hot dipped and he goes over all the prep and finish work required. But like the others have said its a waste once you modify the chassis after the process. If you're doing some major mods now that require a full strip down chances are later you will be playing around with the chassis in some way.

That movie is tops.

Even if you dont like Landys, it is still full of awesome tech that is useable in a normal blokes garage

Dave.

I know when I've gotten a couple of trailer frames hot dip galvanised, it was charged by weight. I'll see if I can find out what price it was per kilo.

Personally I wouldnt do it .......

Hot dipping has a huge effect on welded areas and "stress releives" the adjacent areas to the welds. This will more n likely cause some warping of the chassis that will require straightening.

I've had complete trailers hot dipped through work and never paid for any of em to be done..... But I've spent hours taking the twists and buckles out of both the trailer chassis's and tubs. The worst trailer was a 6'X4' and it twisted nearly 6"out of shape ...... the odd thing is that this trailer was specifically built to be hot dipped and met the galviniseres requirements.

There are special things to do before you get something dipped..... any little 'air cavity" that is sealed up will more n likely explode once its emmersed in molten metal !

The galvinisers I've been to have let me see the process and you would be amazed at the huge lumps of "slag" hanging down from the roof ..... they get there when things go bang from the super heated air pockets.


Kingy

If you are worried about cleaning the insides of your chassis, I would go to the trouble & blast them clean, then paint the insides.

I would also weld a threaded fitting over each hole & plate the ends. Then insert a bung into the threaded fitting.

BINGO.

A completely sealed chassis with no chance of getting stuff in there to rust it out. If you were really worried, fill the rails full of expand-a-foam. That way the inside is protected from air as well.

Just dont fill the rails & then want to weld on them later, might be a bit messy.

gal costs aprox $500.00 per tonne.

Michael.

Mytqik wrote:If you are worried about cleaning the insides of your chassis, I would go to the trouble & blast them clean, then paint the insides.

I would also weld a threaded fitting over each hole & plate the ends. Then insert a bung into the threaded fitting.

BINGO.

A completely sealed chassis with no chance of getting stuff in there to rust it out. If you were really worried, fill the rails full of expand-a-foam. That way the inside is protected from air as well.

Just dont fill the rails & then want to weld on them later, might be a bit messy.

i like the expanda foam idea.........have you tried it??

My dad was trying to get me to do it to my project chassis when all the welding is done.
He used to do it in race cars to stiffen the body up.
I though the foam would just go to crap and absorb water / mud and in turn rust the chassis from the inside.

Still not sure

My old man built his own boat trailer, and he made it completly sealed and filled with sump oil. It still has no rust 25 years later. Probably not an option for a fourby chassis, but oil might be a good option for your sprinkler idea. cheaper than lanolin, you throw away litres or it each oil change

DaveS3 wrote:My dad was trying to get me to do it to my project chassis when all the welding is done.
He used to do it in race cars to stiffen the body up.
I though the foam would just go to crap and absorb water / mud and in turn rust the chassis from the inside.

Still not sure

There are 2 kinds of foam - closed cell and open cell. Closed cell won't absorb water but the insides of the chassis rail if unpainted can still rust if moisture gets between the foam and the metal. If you are sure you won't be doing any mods later then galvanising is a good idea.

The landie I built for my dad has a galvanised chassis (actually every steel part is galvanised). There is some slight warping in the vertical parts of one of the box sections, but the chassis is still nice and square (to withing LR specs anyway).

All the OZ military landies have galvanised chassis. Most of the parts on my IIA are galvanised (except the chassis as I knew I would be modifying it).

i had my tray dipped,

it cost me $100

no warping, cause it was braced properly,
cost is about the same as blast and paint,

the only thing is they will ping ya for blow holes they have to put in it ($30 a hole)

why do they charge to gal by the ton?? a chassis would be faily light but has alot of surface area where as a steal beam would be much heavier but have a similar surface area. shouldnt they charge but the surface area to cover??

superzuki wrote:why do they charge to gal by the ton?? a chassis would be faily light but has alot of surface area where as a steal beam would be much heavier but have a similar surface area. shouldnt they charge but the surface area to cover??

They actually refer to how much gal is "attached" to the steel, not the weight of the item being galvanised.

They measure how heavy the tray is before galvanising & after galvanising. The difference is charged at $xxx/ton.

Mytqik wrote:
They measure how heavy the tray is before galvanising & after galvanising. The difference is charged at $xxx/ton.

Not where I got all my stuff done. They only weigh the items once galvanised.