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Body Lift, yeah yeah
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 12:38 am
by bainswor
Ok I know this is spoken about every 2nd week. I have searched but not much luck.
I have a 77 rangie, manual, all standard. newish springs. I am going to put on 31x10x15 (maxxis mud).
I would like to give a 1'body lift.
I tried to get a bolt out at the front body mount today and they wont come out the nuts strip.
I am not that mechanically minded, but with detailed instructions am fine.
So I am looking to see if anybody has anyo ut there to help me!!
Regards Barny
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 7:53 am
by RaginRover
Use vise grips and let us know how you go
Tom
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 1:41 pm
by bainswor
I did try vice grips but without any success, due to the position of the nut and bolt.
further more, when I put the body lift block in, do I keep the rubber mounts? and I see the remnance of a rusted metal washer? do I need to obtain more of these?
Do I use 25mm blocks or 50mm blocks?
How do I extend the clutch line?
Sorry so many questions!
Regards
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 2:20 pm
by Loanrangie
50mm blocks are the norm, you should replace all the rubbers and the rusted washers as well if they cant be re used. Probably need to replace the flexible portion of the clutch line with extended one.
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 3:16 pm
by Philip A
Hacksaw blade and lots of patience. Or Dremel with reinforced cutting disk. I don't recall exactly but I think you could get it in maybe directly up and down. Cut through vertically , then split the nut with a cold chisel. You will not use these bits anyway.
regard s Philip A
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 3:20 pm
by bainswor
ok sounds like a good start!
50mm diameter blocks?
where do I get new rubbers from? or what can I substitute?
regards Barnaby. maybe if I get new rubbers I can blow the nuts off with the oxy?
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 4:04 pm
by 86MUD
Hi Barnaby
Lifting the body isn't that hard...just need time and patience. I ordered 50mm aluminium blocks from lrexpect.com.au the kit includes 10 spacers, bolts and rubbers.
To lift the body - undo all 10 mounts plus front and rear seat belt mounts. I didn't have to remove or replace my clutch line. Also undo the top mounts on the radiator, undo the universal joints of the steering shaft between the firewall and the steering box, and undo the fuel filler pipe
You will need new front brake hoses.
You can just carefully turn the T piece on the rear brakeline to get more length in the rear flexible hose.
Will need to fabricate new seat belt mounts from 25 x 3 mm flat steel plate. You will also need to fabricate new load space packers (on chassis behind rear wheels) and load packers under the front seats.
Just keep an eye on everything (especially under the bonnet) as you lift the body. I just used wheel stands under the sills - 2 on each side to evenly distribute the weight. I had wind up type wheel stands, but you may be able to use a jack.
Do not lift the body under a house like I did.....I was not able to get the car out once I had finished...I had to let the tyres down to get the car out from under my house!!! Now I have to raise the house!!
If you have a bull bar of rear bar, these will need to adjusted to match the lift..
Enjoy
Andrew
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 4:47 pm
by bainswor
thankyou for the detailed explanation!
That makes it all a bit more understandable!
That kit looks quite good from Lrexpert.
Thanks again
Barny
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:37 pm
by 110 TUFF
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:46 pm
by BIg StEvE