Outer Limits 4x4 Board

OK, had a search but nothing seemed to cover off on thei particualr problem/query.

The car is a 1997 Toyota Prado GXL. Posting it in "General" rather than Toyota, as I am hoping someone else has had this problem.

Fitted remote central locking to the above car today( kit here: http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.a ... &SUBCATID=). The car comes with actuators in all doors, including the drivers. Anway, wired it all up but had the following problem:

Once the kit was installed, the door mounted switch and key activated mechinism no longer operated the central locking - only the new transmitter did. Took the two "activating" wires off (one for "lock " and one for "unlock") and it all worked again - except of course for the transmitter becuase I just removed the wires. Where I plugged the two wires into was just under the fuse box - 4 wires going in (two operated the lock up and down (essentially by shorting them with a test light), and the other two operated via the door mounted switch. I traced the wires into the door itself, and found the following:

- the key activated mechanism had three wires going in
- the switxh activated mechanism had 4 wires going (I thin the same 4 from the fuse box above)

Anyway, the remote kit has been wired up so that there are two wires - one for "lock"and one for "unlock". When you press the transmitter button, the control box will send a 12V supply (for about 1/2 second) to either the lock or unlock, depending on which button you pressed. But from what I could work out, the actuator didn't simply work on a 12V feed to activate. More like it was working on an earthing to activate.

Does this make sense to anyone, and if so any ideas?

(long winded I know, just trying to give us much info as possible).

Thanks

I installed a car alarm in my Granmas 1996 Corolla quite a few years ago. From memory the system required only one wire from the alarm to activate the locks. It relied on the wire to have either a negative or positive pulse going through it depending on if you were locking or unlocking.

Perhaps yours is the same.

I used to be a car audio tech so I did some installs but this was quite some time ago.

However if you can get it working with the remote at the expense of the door lock then I would just leave it. At least the system works and you will probably never use the key again anyway now that you have remote locking. Then change it when you find out how to do it properly.

Hope this helps.

Finally found the wiring diagram for the Prado (off Prado users group). Should be able to sort it now.

Was just going through the actual control module rather than directly to the lock motor. Will get is sorted this weekend.