Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ATT Mr KINGY.!
I've been checking your members section and are
very interested in the rust repairs.
I have the same problem.(RUST).
Would it be possible for you to update your
members area like SCREWY did with his awsome ute.
I know is big,but hey,if you don't ask you dont know.

Cheers Ian.

Rust repairs are the same on any car.

Remove any metal that is effected and weld in fresh metal. Most panels on MQ's can be fabricated from scratch using sheet metal (available at any metal suppliers).

If you can't fabricate them yourself, the you could try cutting the panals off another non-rusted body and stitching them in.

Once that's done, grind the welds down so they are flat and use a fiberglass filler to smooth the area down, and paint as per normal. Make sure the area you have touched (ie, welded around) is sealed well - bitumous paint works wonders - and make sure you get the "other side" of the weld (on the inside of the panel).

Failing to do this will just mean the area will start rusting again by itself in the near future.

I,ve just riped up the floor,to repair a small hole.
And guess what?SUPRISE i found more,in non flat
corners,mounts and alike.
I'm learning to weld pretty quickly.

Cheers Ian

Mr Kingy ......

What bits do you need ???? I still have a heap of pics to load back up as yet and time is a killer ........... as per ususal

Let me know which pages are missing the pics you want and I'll redo em for ya.

Rust is easy to get rid of, its just that 99.9% of ppl are to scared to cut into it and weld in a new bit........
Frightened they are "hurting" their pride n joy when really they are doing it a favor!

get some 1mm panel steel fopr the "panel sections / floorpan" areas,
get a small amount of either 1.6mm or 2mm sheet steel for cab mounts
and a few 4" grinder wheels ....... grab the mig and go for it !

No need to get super fussy about "shaping" the floor pan back to its original shape after all its there to keep ya feet from draging on the road and to stop the mud etc comming in.....who care what it looks like

As for sealing it up ......... stay away from bog / fibreglass etc, the moisture will get between it & the new steel and rust wont be long comming back.... been there done that !...... Use either SIKAFLEX or URATHANE to seal any joins up, works a treat and lasts a phuckin long time, its far easier to apply, and requires no sanding .

Tip:
if your supa fussy about a neat fill line with the SIKAFLEX or URATHANE the dip a small paint brush into some "PREPWASH" and this will allow you to smooth out the black stuff easilly ......
Also use masking tape to get better lines and stop the "mess" spreading

Kingy

Thanks for reply's guys.

The main areas of concern are where the floor and sill meet,
and the back of the sill around the floor mounts,
the rest is minor spot stuff.
I'd like to keep the old girl as she,is paid for and is
fun to punt around in.

Cheers Ian.
P.S what does mean???

meiamaro wrote:Thanks for reply's guys.

The main areas of concern are where the floor and sill meet,
and the back of the sill around the floor mounts,
the rest is minor spot stuff.
I'd like to keep the old girl as she,is paid for and is
fun to punt around in.

Cheers Ian.
P.S what does mean???

Roll On Floor Laughing.

And another P40 man welcome to the P40 Club were few and far between

Yeah their not to bad.
I've just aquired a pwr steer box,
and need to find a way of mount a pump
for it, my pully only has a single goove,
whic is taken up by the alt.
Any ideas would be great.
Also anyone got/or can get extractors for a p40.?

Thanks Ian.