Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I upgraded from my MQ on the weekend to a LWB GQ.

Im planning for 4inch lift and running 35's. How extensive will the gaurd chopping be? Should i just get 6 inch and not bother cutting?

Want to also cut out the roof behind front seats. Leave some room for seats to move. I was going to put a sheet of steel behind with a window to seal of cab. Is this the best way?

Plans are to seal in the edges with more sheet metal. With the rear gate im thinkn of leaving the original barn doors but down the track might put an MQ styled gate on.

Also i was wondering what this stabiliser dissconnect is? does it do any good. Its really stifff to pull out...

cheers hears some pics

terrytuffnut wrote:I upgraded from my MQ on the weekend to a LWB GQ.

Im planning for 4inch lift and running 35's. How extensive will the gaurd chopping be? Should i just get 6 inch and not bother cutting?

Want to also cut out the roof behind front seats. Leave some room for seats to move. I was going to put a sheet of steel behind with a window to seal of cab. Is this the best way?

Plans are to seal in the edges with more sheet metal. With the rear gate im thinkn of leaving the original barn doors but down the track might put an MQ styled gate on.

Also i was wondering what this stabiliser dissconnect is? does it do any good. Its really stifff to pull out...

cheers hears some pics

go 6" lift, cost is almost the same any way

Yeah go a 6 inch lift but research before you buy my lift for my shorty is shagged after just over a years use ie; sagged in the ass end over an inch. Ask question's and work out what coil/shock combination you need.. Basically you want the bum in the air a bit...

There is a bloke up this way with a 6 inch lift and 35inch MTRS and it looks the business.

As you do the lift it wouldn't hurt to get slightly longer/stronger rear lower arms and adjustable rear upper arms. This is for strength and also to centralise the axle within the wheel arch and also to correct pinion angles, although your shaft may not vibrate it is important to have both the transfer and pinion uni's within 3 degrees of opposing each other else you shag your shaft..

And moving you axle back to stock position is necessary as you lift the car your wheelbase shortens bla bla and will alleviate most of the rubbing on full stuff..

Brake lines and panhard rods as well....

As for castor correction save your pennies and get drop arms.. or drop boxes steer clear of castor plates...

That is just my thoughts on the matter..

go the 6 inch

Cheers,

Jeremy..

Plan is for

1.drop boxes $ 250 for a pair

2.coils 6 inch dobinsons $170 a pair

3.shocks Pro comp $125

This is all from 4wdstuff(shane)


Who should i get control arms off (price friendly) ?


cheers

took her for a maiden fourby today, lots of scraping and bottoming out.



I think that with 6 inch coils once i cut the rear of the roof off it should allow it to sit a little higher

terrytuffnut wrote:Who should i get control arms off?

Front arms with new nissan bushes will set you back $650 to $750 dpending what you want , I got some of the New 2 Da Extreme arms , They are fantastic drives better than our ford, and flexs really well too, They are made from Bizloy, Same tuff dozer buckets are made from, If your interested shoot me a PM and Ill put you in touch with a supplier that will look after you.

Darren


Oh yeah , Go the 6'' also........

The Big Green Meany wrote:

terrytuffnut wrote:Who should i get control arms off?

Front arms with new nissan bushes will set you back $650 to $750 dpending what you want , I got some of the New 2 Da Extreme arms , They are fantastic drives better than our ford, and flexs really well too, They are made from Bizloy, Same tuff dozer buckets are made from, If your interested shoot me a PM and Ill put you in touch with a supplier that will look after you.

Darren


Oh yeah , Go the 6'' also........

yeah, I would suggest getting the bizaloy arms, lighter than billet steel or cast and good hard waering properties, if I didn't have the drop boxes I would get these for the few exta $$

make sure you dont get the soft dobinsone, they say very quickly.

dobinsons!!! mine dropped 2in from 6 in a year

Dont get the snake arms, Unless you are using the for offroad only. The snake ones have a pivett point in the rear of the arms taht csude a fari bit of vibration on the road.......

The Big Green Meany wrote:Dont get the snake arms, Unless you are using the for offroad only. The snake ones have a pivett point in the rear of the arms taht csude a fari bit of vibration on the road.......

Thinking of the wrong arms. The 3rd's Production arms have the swival similar to an 80series cruiser.

Yeh I have just been down the old 6" inch lift road.
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/inde ... adid=10281
I probably would go for the kings (I don't think they make 6" though ???)A couple of blokes at work setting up their trucks for comp work have tried Dobinsons and wouldn't touch em now, he tried three different stiffnesses and was not happy??? Hight depends on what u long for in a vehicle, I'm going to settle for the 5" and limit up lift and extend down travel..seems to be ideal and works well with gravity..

So basically what you're doing here is making a LWB GQ turn into a F150?

basically f150 yeah.

I need to fit dirt bike in the back. Plus i think it will look sweet and be a little different.

Sheet metal welded to the back of the cab seems to be the go.

Ill put in a floor. Hopefully be straight forward

I really dont know what im doing im just going to have a crack at it. might go see the hot rod guy around the corner. he is the "man who can". Probably be a good idea to let him weld and fabricate so i dont get the fish tank effect.

Im trying to do it on the cheap because im not cashed up at the moment.

the wish list is long

see the boys at artic cool treads (jason) they will look after you i have had no probs with my springs or shocks from there and they have been in for over two years

hope this helps
jacko

ps, they are at rocklea