Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I'm running Hilux axles and brakes on the IIa, with discs up front and drums down back. I'm looking to change the master cylinder from the single system currently on it, to the split system and vacuum boosted unit used on the Series 3 Landies. Should I be anticipating any problems with this like bias or pedal travel etc. Having lines made should be ok.

What is the bore of the hilux MC? If it is close to the Series MC (are you planning on using the landie CB or CV type?) then it should be fine. Does the hilux have a proportioning valve between the front and the back? If so you will need to fit that as well.

Hilux has proportion valve.

Michael.

hmmm, they're some good questions! I'm hoping to use the Series 3 master cylinder and booster, though I do have a hilux MC and booster here. Im not sure yet how they compare in bore. The hilux MC has lines to the front and seperate lines to the rear brakes which I thought did the proportioning??? I haven't yet ordered the Series3 MC which I thought worked on the same principle.

A proprtioning valve (combined with a pressure differential switch - brake malfunction warning) looks like this:



Or this - if it is just the proportioning valve (adjustable):



Note that externally adjustable ones like the second one are illegal in OZ.

Proportioning valve or Equalizer Valve
These valves are mounted between the master cylinder and the rear wheels. They are designed to adjust the pressure between the front and rear brakes depending on how hard you are stopping. The shorter you stop, the more of the vehicle's weight is transferred to the front wheels, in some cases, causing the rear to lift and the front to dive. These valves are designed to direct more pressure to the front and less pressure to the rear the harder you stop. This minimizes the chance of premature lockup at the rear wheels.

Coil sprung landies/rangies have the first type. Series landies (all drums) don't have a proportioning valve AFAIK.

ah ok thanks for this Isuzurover, now I'm understanding what it is. I didn't realise these were in the system at all. Good idea though, and it looks like I'll have to get one of those also.

WRT to the CB or CV type, I'm not really sure. I'll have to get a pedal box and also check out if the Hilux unit will somehow go onto it.

Slunnie wrote: WRT to the CB or CV type, I'm not really sure. I'll have to get a pedal box and also check out if the Hilux unit will somehow go onto it.

Actually, thinking about it, I think the only MC with 2 outlet lines was the CV type, as shown in the picture (the CB type has a big nut on the end).

If you need to buy an MC anyway, the best bet would probably be the one for an early 110 (1984-1985), since it should fit your pedal box and booster, and the 110's had 4-pot front discs and rear drums.

got a late model rangie one that has four outlets, Ben would it fit ?

Tom

Yeh they fit. Maybe need a bit of trimming but no problem there.

You need to make a 1' spacer to mate the rangie master cyclinder to the series pedal box.

I think the stroke is different? I'll try find out more today from a guy that has done it.

Dave.

Thanks for the input all, especially Isuzurover! My thoughts at this stage, are that I'll try to dig out a Series3 brake pedal assembly and graft the hilux booster and MC onto it, then run a full Hilux brake setup. Hopefully that'll be the most straight forward way to go about doing this. I have not stripped a Series3 brake pedal assy, but I anticipate that it should be pretty straight forward, and if it needs to be adapted, then so be it. This way it means that the MC/booster will match the brakes, the proportioning valve bias will suit and the lines will be easy to get and there will be no outsourced custom jobbies (ie exy).

You should be able to adapt just about anything onto the series pedal box (type with MC facing away from firewall not towards it). The biggest problem is the size of the booster (which can mean guard cutting - rangie mc), and the stroke, but that is usually not a problem.

The guard (footwell?) cutting should be ok, I've already opened the firewall up to fit the motor and gearbox through, but the stroke will be an interesting one to find out. I'll need to put a tape measure on the pedal assembly or just see how it goes.

If you use the Series pedal box assembly, and some other MS (either RR or Toy) you may need to cut away the top of the guard (flat surface) to fit it as the diametre of the RR one is much bigger.

I am unsure of the Toy diametre.

Dave.

I've used a Stage I pedal box, booster and MC with GQ diffs,

at slow speeds (haven't gone for a drive) the pedal feel is good and pulls up fine.

a bit off topic but how much work was it to use the hilux diffs what mods did you have to do to the steering? i recon it would be a top conversion. no more broken axels and disk brakes are allways good

The conversion so far has been pretty easy. The front axles line up and using the original spring plates will bolt in. I cant recall which U bolts I used, may have been Suzuki sierra. Rears required new perches to be mounted onto the axle and then bolted on again using the original spring plates and new U bolts. You'll have to drill the rear diff pinion flange to suit the LR tailshaft, and also brake flex to suit. A problem with this, is the front tailshaft wont flex down to suit a hilux diff SOA. You will need a new front tailshaft to suit, pref a hi pinion front diff and to clearance the Xmember to clear the propshaft.

SOA conversion text
http://www.slunnie.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=8

Spring over conversion pics
http://www.slunnie.com/coppermine/thumb ... p?album=48

Steering is typical cheapo Toyota hilux Xover conversion using original parts, except that the upper part of the steering arm needs to be heated down to a lower height for clearance. The ball joint mount needs a new taper reamed into it to fit the rover ball joint instead of Toyotas. It'll be clearer with the pics.

Xover steering
http://www.slunnie.com/coppermine/thumb ... p?album=49

In doing all of this I have put in a V8/LT95 and the transfer case is a long way back and some of the Xmembers are gone resolving that fornt tailshaft clearance problem. I will later also move the rear axle back so it can actually run a tailshaft. The brakes I am in the process now (waiting for parts and working time) changing to brake pedal to a S3 unit, grafting a Hilux booster, MC and brake lines and so running a compete Hilux brake setup.

460cixy wrote:a bit off topic but how much work was it to use the hilux diffs what mods did you have to do to the steering? i recon it would be a top conversion. no more broken axels and disk brakes are allways good

And a wide range of strong ratio's.

cheers for the info. never thought of useing tojo diffs before