Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey has any one got quick release rear swaybars damm pain taking them off

Some people don't take them off, they only disconnect one end (remove the vertical rod.) I don't know how much difference it makes to articulation.

There is the risk that the end of the sway bar will get caught on something.

Cheers,

Scott

I've just taken mine off and hoicked it. Same with the front.

I haven't seen quick release ones on a Paj, only on Cruisers and Nissans. The Jeep guys run these things Anti Rock Sway Bars which work like a sway bar on road, but let the wheels travel on road somehow... pretty snazzy invention.

ok here are some pics of the rear disconects i have just made. have altered length since these shots. getting them plated at the minute. will post some pics once installed.
got the idea from J Top (in new zealand). basically the centre(yellow) part is held in place by the top and btm bushes and the R clips. remove the R clips and the link can be removed. it leaves the bolt in place to support the sway bar. wnen axle articulates the swaybar moves up and down the bolt. have made them longer than the std links to take account of suspension lift.

assembled



parts


cookie monster

interesting ....how well do they work??

not sure, havent fitted them yet !
J Top has them set up on his rig and say's they work well. will have to see. going down the SA border track in a couple of weeks to try them out.
will let you all know.
cookie monster

NJ SWB wrote:Some people don't take them off, they only disconnect one end (remove the vertical rod.) I don't know how much difference it makes to articulation.

There is the risk that the end of the sway bar will get caught on something.

Cheers,

Scott

yep thought of disconnecting both sides and puttting flexible ties to the link arms but cookies idea looks good would give the bar some give ....just how do the quick release on other 4b's work .....should go have a look but someone out there must have tried

FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN IN THE MAGS, MOST OF THEM HAVE A REMOVABLE SECTION IN THE MIDDLE. THIS IS FINE BUT WHAT HAPPENS TO THE SWAY BAR IF BOTH SIDES ARE REMOVED ? IT MUST JUST FLOP ABOUT AS THERE IS NOTHING SUPPORTING IT.
I DID CONSIDER THIS ROUTE, AND THOUGHT OF MODIFYING THE SWAYBAR MOUNTING BKT ON THE AXLE TO INCORPORATE A BOLT TO LOCK THE SWAYBAR IN PLACE WHEN DISCONNECTED. THEN J TOP SUGGESTED THIS METHOD, WHICH I THOUGHT WAS BETTER.
COOKIE MONSTER

Attached is a picture of my Paj (a looong time ago) with the right side end link disconnected at full flex. Take note of where the end of the bar is And this is with standard length shocks.
The Yanks have been down this road before and someone came up with an end link disconnect (4x4 shop) for the Paj rear bar. The first test car had it's bar ripped off as it snagged a rock at full flex. Diagnosis = angle grinder & scrap metal bin.
There are other designs that allow the end of the bar to freely move along an end link (once pins are removed) but in reality they are still limiting travel because you would need at least a 12" end link to provide enough room.
No one has really come up with a satisfactory disconnect that caters for a lever type swaybar (bar that wraps around diff & suspension) as opposed to a straight bar.

Bitsamissin wrote:No one has really come up with a satisfactory disconnect that caters for a lever type swaybar (bar that wraps around diff & suspension) as opposed to a straight bar.

would it be possible to replace standard bar with a "straight" bar and disconnector??

Yes absolutely, I'll be doing this soon.
The set up on mine now is still very similar to before.
Basically where the swaybar mounts are now needs a new pad for the mounts made which sits high enough for the straight length to run just above the diff which will make room for an Articulator.
The existing chassis mounts and end links can still be used and Selby can make up a swaybar to your specs.
A good way is to use some thick wire and bend it to the shape you want and ask them to make it to whatever diameter you want.

Very interesting .....how soon till u try yours?????

cookie monster wrote:not sure, havent fitted them yet !
J Top has them set up on his rig and say's they work well. will have to see. going down the SA border track in a couple of weeks to try them out.
will let you all know.
cookie monster

Bump ...

have you had a chance to use this in anger yet?

what about bungie cord? it will hold the bar in place on the high way then offer almost no resistance off road.

Matt

How about mounting the bar to the body/chassis than the ends to the axle ?
Than you could unclip it like a jeep.

unfortunatly the sa border track trip fell through ! heading up to Whyalla on the long w/end, so will try them out then. will also try and get some measurements with the fork at work, to see how much extra flex is achieved.
cookie

Zute wrote:How about mounting the bar to the body/chassis than the ends to the axle ?
Than you could unclip it like a jeep.

unfortunatly our bars are curved under the diff and that isnt a possibility

Grumpy, I was thinking of using the area that the yellow level is in.
You'd use a straight bar with arms going back towards the axel housing, than drop links down to the axle.
All would need to be fabed, but shouldnt be to hard. Anyone who builds sports sedans could make one.

Well I fitted the rear sway-bar disconnects last weekend and got some dimensions with the forklift.

With the disconnects in place the front passenger wheel lifted 480mm (18.9 inch) before the drivers front wheel lifted.

With the disconnects removed the front passenger wheel lifted 530mm (20.85 inch) before both the front drivers and the passenger rear lifted at the same time.


So basically it gives a couple of inch extra articulation.

The sway bar link limits the downward travel of the sway-bar.

The removable collar of the sway-bar disconnect is made to suit a 2â€

Yeah go for it Cookie just a tip though don't drill a hole in your bar and bolt something to it the hole will flog out in no time.
The front bar is under enormous load when twisting as the wheels move up and down (say rapidly over pot holes).
Also if you weld anything to your bar it will have to be re-heat treated to regain it's original properties. The best way is to use clamping pressure such as set screws.

You can also shrink or press an interferance fit onto the bar
J Top

thanks for the tips guys, when i have drawn the disconnect up, i will post it for you to have a look at. you may be able to see some potential problems that i may have missed.
will keep you posted (no pun intended )
cookie monster

hi guys,
i used the rear swaybar disconnects for the first time on the weekend. worked well, with no apparant damage happening to the links / bushes etc. did notice that the metal disc's that are between the rubbers tended to 'jingle-jangle' a lot, no probs though. the other thing was it was a bit difficult to reconnect the centre piece (the bit that you remove) with everything covered in mud !!!!!!!! so drove back to adelaide from whyalla with them still disconnected. not a lot of difference really ! just a bit more roll ! thankfully the coppers didnt look when they stoped us for a random breath test !


ive had a request from one of the members, to manufacture a set of the rear swaybar disconnects that i have made for my paj.
if anybody else is interested could they let me know, as it will determine the way in which i manufacture them. my set was made a bit long winded as they were a 'one off'.
if people are interested in some then i will redesign to make it easier(hence cheaper) to produce.
not sure of pricing at minute, will have a look at it and get back to you all.
cookie monster

ok, had a look at the manufacture and pricing of the rear swaybar disconnects.
if i produce 10 pairs, the cost would be $75 a pair.
this includes - longer 10mm bolt, disconnect section and 2 R clips, all plated. X2 , to suit 2" lift (can also make to suit std height).
if anybody is interested PM me.
cheers
cookie monster