Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Im looking at making some sliders for my lwb GQ wagon after a couple of heavy hits to the sills . Has anyone got some pics and ideas on a design , and also how to attatch to chassis. I was thinking of bolt on brackets , not keen on welding to the chassis. Thanks in advance shane........

It would be cheaper to purchase them through cheezy's ressellers than make them up unless you are good with benders and welding champ.

On another note a square U shape 6mm flat and two bolts above the chasis is good for clearence.

LudaCris

Are there any decent pics around of cheesy's sliders on a lwb gq?

Whats the cost of these?

ludacris wrote:
On another note a square U shape 6mm flat and two bolts above the chasis is good for clearence.

LudaCris

i have been looking at doing this, but since i have no body lift, there isnt much room there, how have other been? i may have to put a 1" body lift in

These are ones i made up for my GQ shorty out of 65mm tube steel. Made U bolts to go around the chassis, but I had a 2 inch body lift, makes heaps more room for mountings.

Am also interested in finding out about sliders.

ludacris wrote:It would be cheaper to purchase them through cheezy's ressellers than make them up unless you are good with benders and welding champ.

On another note a square U shape 6mm flat and two bolts above the chasis is good for clearence.

LudaCris

Thanks ludacris , yep Im handy with the welder and grinder , and been busy today making a start on them.Still debating on how to mount them , Ive looked at cheesys and didnt like the amount of welding on the chassis , especially in those points because I know mine cops a hammering there. So any pics on the u bolt system would be appreciated. thanks shane....

Tried and failed to do a over and under clamp arrangement on mine without bodylift. Not much room (like maybe 7-8mm) so it's virtually impossible to mount in that fashion.

Of course if you factor in a body lift (even a small one) then it's possible.

Heres a link to mine that i built

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... cs+sliders


And heres another set a made for a doods 80 series cruiser


http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... es+sliders



But they have brkts (plates) welded to the chassis rails ....... but may give you an idea of a style you all after ......


Have a search there has been heaps of posts similair to this ...thats where i found my old links in another post just cut and pasted it in ....maybe there is some pics floatin in cyber space somwhere but my search had like 48 pages and although i have no dramas helpin out wif some info .....be damned if i was searchn all of em took bout 7 pages to find my old links lol

P.s My rig has also passed engineers no dramas with sliders fitted as shown .
Dan

Yesterday on Burgoynes Gap track at Licola we had to make a slider to get the Maverick out to the main road after the wheel bearings had self destructed. With careful 2wd only, no brakes and a tow we made it after 4 hours. See the picture. [/img]

Geez Pete,
That fix-it list is getting longer!!!!!
Andrew

Not a lot of damage though considering., and only 1 tree was killed during this recovery. The bloke on my trip was a real bush mechanic and had good ideas. Considering this looks pretty rough it worked well. After 16 years of pretty constant 4x4ing this is the first time I have not been able to get the old girl home on her own. The fact that you can drive the thing still on 3 wheels and a sled is testament to Nissan's (sorry FORDS) build quality.

Good effort getting home Redmav.

As for sliders round Sydney, Allbars and traybakcs do em for about $550 fitted last time I checked, for that price how could you go wrong.

I made a few inquireies in Newcastle but no-one is interested in doing them UNLESS i pay alot for them.

Made some sliders out of 50x50x4mm rhs for an extra cab ute, one piece under sill another further out for step, chassis is sandwiched between 8mm plate and 4 bolts of 12mm and 8.8 grade, only two mounting points each side, one just behind front control arm pivot, the other just in front of rear trailing arm pivot. Sliders have not moved in two years, show plenty of gouges from rock and have been used many times to lift the side of the vehicle with an over head crane to change tyes. Very basic and simple, very strong, cost about $150 for bolts and steel (from memory).

Have not had any dramas with the bolts on the bottom of chassis hooking up

Can post pics if required

I welded mine as the only way is with u bolts and it is a comp rig, can do them with u bolts (snake do this) for $750 if anyone is interested PM me

GQ Toy wrote:Made some sliders out of 50x50x4mm rhs for an extra cab ute, one piece under sill another further out for step, chassis is sandwiched between 8mm plate and 4 bolts of 12mm and 8.8 grade, only two mounting points each side, one just behind front control arm pivot, the other just in front of rear trailing arm pivot. Sliders have not moved in two years, show plenty of gouges from rock and have been used many times to lift the side of the vehicle with an over head crane to change tyes. Very basic and simple, very strong, cost about $150 for bolts and steel (from memory).

Have not had any dramas with the bolts on the bottom of chassis hooking up

Can post pics if required

Thanks gq toy , can i see some pics of thoses mounts. The sliders are wellunder construction but still deciding on the mounting. My mate whos helping me with them , is a boiler maker and refuses to weld to the chassis , so Ive gotta clamp them some how . thanks shane...

bagsy wrote:

GQ Toy wrote:Made some sliders out of 50x50x4mm rhs for an extra cab ute, one piece under sill another further out for step, chassis is sandwiched between 8mm plate and 4 bolts of 12mm and 8.8 grade, only two mounting points each side, one just behind front control arm pivot, the other just in front of rear trailing arm pivot. Sliders have not moved in two years, show plenty of gouges from rock and have been used many times to lift the side of the vehicle with an over head crane to change tyes. Very basic and simple, very strong, cost about $150 for bolts and steel (from memory).

Have not had any dramas with the bolts on the bottom of chassis hooking up

Can post pics if required

Thanks gq toy , can i see some pics of thoses mounts. The sliders are wellunder construction but still deciding on the mounting. My mate whos helping me with them , is a boiler maker and refuses to weld to the chassis , so Ive gotta clamp them some how . thanks shane...

No worries I will try to get some tomorrow

A1MAV & GQ Toy..... do your bolts pass through the chassis rail and nut on the otherside, or A1MAV are yours simply threaded on the welded on plate and bolt down onto this and protrude into the chassis rail? Is this second idea possible?

I also noticed neither run a side step platform / plate over the rock sliders or front mudflaps, how do these go with gravel damage etc higher up the sills or could it probably benefit from step plates.

MAVRK-4 wrote:A1MAV & GQ Toy..... do your bolts pass through the chassis rail and nut on the otherside, or A1MAV are yours simply threaded on the welded on plate and bolt down onto this and protrude into the chassis rail? Is this second idea possible?

I also noticed neither run a side step platform / plate over the rock sliders or front mudflaps, how do these go with gravel damage etc higher up the sills or could it probably benefit from step plates.

MAVRK-4 Mine bolt upto the 10mm plate welded to the chassis rails and no the bolts dont protrude into the chassis rail .....plates are only welded on the vertical plane ............ they have 4 M12 botls per mount minus the front mounts .............

These have copped a canning and i have yet to have any dramas with them ..........

And to the platform section or Step plate question ..well i dont do much (re: any ) outback traveling so i havent found much damage from stone issues yet to add a plate (chequer /floor plate ) wouldnt be much involved to fit up or even front mud flaps ..



Dan

Thanks gq toy , can i see some pics of thoses mounts. The sliders are wellunder construction but still deciding on the mounting. My mate whos helping me with them , is a boiler maker and refuses to weld to the chassis , so Ive gotta clamp them some how . thanks shane...[/quote]

Your mates a boiler maker and refusing to weld to the chassis. Why???
Seem like the best way to go if you can weld properly. I'm a boile too and plan on welding plates to my chassis in order have something to bolt the sliders too.One of the problems with clamps, you stop sliding when you hit them, or just bend um.

So does anyone have sliders on a GQ that DOES NOT have a bodylift on it???

donyt know if this would work but

is it possible to get some threaded rod bent up to go round chassis rail with plates welded 2 the slider that are drilled to put the rod thru ?

nyloc captive nuts on the rod with the brace acting as another slider ??

dont flame me for my pic ( i aint no picasso )

AFeral wrote:Thanks gq toy , can i see some pics of thoses mounts. The sliders are wellunder construction but still deciding on the mounting. My mate whos helping me with them , is a boiler maker and refuses to weld to the chassis , so Ive gotta clamp them some how . thanks shane...

Your mates a boiler maker and refusing to weld to the chassis. Why???
Seem like the best way to go if you can weld properly. I'm a boile too and plan on welding plates to my chassis in order have something to bolt the sliders too.One of the problems with clamps, you stop sliding when you hit them, or just bend um.[/quote]

He doesnt want to weld on the chassis because he said it will weaken that point and it ll crack there later on. But Ive been doing some more reserch and according to an engineer I spoke to he reckons if your going to weld on the chassis its best to weld along it and not down . So I will probably do this I think , just weld the 10 mm plates onto the chassis on just the top and bottem of the plate.

Pics of mounts - 2" body lift

Did the same before the body lift, just designed the support bars to curve down around the sill - lots of work and lost strength

I say this as a fella that is very weight conscious and tries to keep my kerb weight down but go cheesy. I had Mark put his cheesy sliders on my LWB Mav and I think it is some of the best splash I have spent on my bus. My bus eats Rocky Track at Toolangi. At Wombat I've had some very big hits that would have crunched my door upto the roof (rocksteps out of the creek) and have been astounded to find that i've barely scratched the powdercoat.

Waiting for Mark to do a job is a pain in the A<$e but there's a reason and his welding work is very very good. As a fussy architect that is obsessed with detail like a porn fiend with a broadband connection (i hate dial up) I have to say I've not seen better welding. You can tell from looking at his welding that the welds are even and a perfect depth for the material in the chassis rail, further after you bolt the plates to the rail (they are easily removable, sell your bus keep the sliders $65 to put ém on your new bus). The sliders sit 10mm below your door for clearance and thats an exact 10mm. And it makes using the high lift jack dead easy.

Mark

A1MAV wrote:

MAVRK-4 wrote:A1MAV & GQ Toy..... do your bolts pass through the chassis rail and nut on the otherside, or A1MAV are yours simply threaded on the welded on plate and bolt down onto this and protrude into the chassis rail? Is this second idea possible?

I also noticed neither run a side step platform / plate over the rock sliders or front mudflaps, how do these go with gravel damage etc higher up the sills or could it probably benefit from step plates.

MAVRK-4 Mine bolt upto the 10mm plate welded to the chassis rails and no the bolts dont protrude into the chassis rail .....plates are only welded on the vertical plane ............ they have 4 M12 botls per mount minus the front mounts .............

These have copped a canning and i have yet to have any dramas with them ..........

And to the platform section or Step plate question ..well i dont do much (re: any ) outback traveling so i havent found much damage from stone issues yet to add a plate (chequer /floor plate ) wouldnt be much involved to fit up or even front mud flaps ..



Dan

These are exactly like what i made for mine, super strong but recommend a 2" body lift for more room and stronger mounts.