Outer Limits 4x4 Board

as it says, I cant see any leaks, brakes are ok, but every week I have to fill the master cyl thingy...

anyone else had this?

.... Not a huge loss..

But it gets lower over the period of say 3 weeks - 6 weeks... just a little bit.

But there are no leaks. It is a sealed thing so WTF ??

JemmyBubbles wrote:.... Not a huge loss..

But it gets lower over the period of say 3 weeks - 6 weeks... just a little bit.

But there are no leaks. It is a sealed thing so WTF ??

yea it aint the pads wearing which is normal, but you should only have to fill it once in 6 mths...

is the area around the master cylinder dry, is it definatly not a seal leaking,

I thought I had the same too but finally found a smal amount of wetness around oune of my brake calipers.

It only became visible due to all the dirt on it.

it is very common to get the rear calipers leaking, but most of the gq's have a leaking master clyinder . they are getting to the age of having to replace stuff now. will prob be cheaper to get the master clyinder sleaved with stainless steel sleeve put in it and a new kit.
any decent brake place should be able to get this done.

Could be leaking into booster?

I used to have a HK Prem with a hydraulic clutch. Master cylinder too was leaking but inside the firewall and onto carpet. Didn't notice until carpet was real stuffed. Stopped floor rusting though!

yeah check the carpet on the inside of the car for fluid but if theres nothing there unbolt the master and pull it forward and see if its wet back there, it can either fill up the master or get sucked into the engine in some cases...

yeah check the carpet on the inside of the car for fluid but if theres nothing there unbolt the master and pull it forward and see if its wet back there, it can either fill up the master or get sucked into the engine in some cases...

Thanks for the ideas people..

OZI - Around Master cyl - dry as nuns.

Beastmavster - yea, Ive looked but cant see anything at all, and there was dry dust there until today in the hail.. :(

tuf045 - ditto on the nuns - and new rear calipers 12 mths ago. Yea, its a 91 mod, so things do need replacing, but Im doing them as I find em.

busman - anything is possible.

BowTieGQ and Josh n Kat - will sus it out this weekend...
Never having removed a master cyl setup, can you just unbolt the 2 nuts on firewall and pull it forward or is it a Cookie of a job...



Just an edit to this. from the GQ patrol list - is this cheap? never had to buy one?

Better Brakes in Bayswater Victoria can offer a fully reconditioned master cylinder with a stainless steel sleave and a 12 month warranty for $220.00 or a new one for $300.00 0397296611

do you have body lift? if so check the hard lines under the master cylinder down to the chassis somtimes they pull tighter with body lift and rub holes in them. just a thought.

i got a brand new master cylinder from gas research in dandy for $220 but they put it in.

tuf045 wrote:do you have body lift? if so check the hard lines under the master cylinder down to the chassis somtimes they pull tighter with body lift and rub holes in them. just a thought.

good thinkin 99... will sus that out when the temp gets above minus phuckinlots

I just found the seals on my reservoir container are leaking

Joe

yeah you can usually undo the bolts and pull the master forward a bit, not all the way but enough to get a look back there to see if its wet round back...

Also when undoing those bolts, undo the clip and remove pin from brake pedal so that it can come out into engine bay a little further. Don't kink hoses!! Shop around for a newy. I'm not sure if there is aftermarket ones or not. Phone calls are cheap. Still, someone here would have done all this before anyway and post your best option.

BowTieGQ wrote:Also when undoing those bolts, undo the clip and remove pin from brake pedal so that it can come out into engine bay a little further. Don't kink hoses!! Shop around for a newy. I'm not sure if there is aftermarket ones or not. Phone calls are cheap. Still, someone here would have done all this before anyway and post your best option.

yea this sounds ok price to me. but never bought 1 before.
brakes are things not to fuck with or be cheap on. will look more this weekend


Better Brakes in Bayswater Victoria can offer a fully reconditioned master cylinder with a stainless steel sleave and a 12 month warranty for $220.00 or a new one for $300.00 0397296611

Try Don Kyatt (think thats how its spelt), think they are about $250 new.

Cossie wrote:Try Don Kyatt (think thats how its spelt), think they are about $250 new.

thanks dude. hows the black round rim protectors?

going great, Cheers.

Although I have managed to get mud in the beads of two of them last
weekend!

Its pissing me off a bit now as it happens almost everytime I go out!
I dropped pressures to 20psi and we were only wheelin' for about 4 hours at Gembrook. Its gonna start getting expensive as the tyre joint arent gonna keep sorting them out for free soon!

Cossie wrote:going great, Cheers.

Although I have managed to get mud in the beads of two of them last
weekend!

Its pissing me off a bit now as it happens almost everytime I go out!
I dropped pressures to 20psi and we were only wheelin' for about 4 hours at Gembrook. Its gonna start getting expensive as the tyre joint arent gonna keep sorting them out for free soon!

never had that issue and went down to 12 a few times....
get yaself some tireplyers or similar

found the leak, its where the long silver bit the master cyl mounts on joins the vacuum bit.. pissin out there.

... so thats another job for saturday.

seals bogged seals...

Interestingly I found my leak... my very small small small leak..

TINY eency wincy little bit of fluid around and on the proportioning valve. Are these throwaway items once they start leaking or can they be repaired ??

JemmyBubbles wrote:seals bogged seals...

Interestingly I found my leak... my very small small small leak..

TINY eency wincy little bit of fluid around and on the proportioning valve. Are these throwaway items once they start leaking or can they be repaired ??

Yea, gonna chase up a PBS kit tomorrow, see how much that will scare the wallet - $80?. Mate says its an easy job, but Im more worried about doin it saturday and finding out things are more fubar than first thought... and no car for monday work :(

$220 for the stainless reco job is sounding like cheap insurance.

JemmyBubbles wrote:seals bogged seals...

Interestingly I found my leak... my very small small small leak..

TINY eency wincy little bit of fluid around and on the proportioning valve. Are these throwaway items once they start leaking or can they be repaired ??

Throw away item. sometimes thay can ooze a small amount when actuated manually, but in normal use they can be fine.

Mine was leaking from the same location. I got a proper nissan reco kit with springs/seals/plunger thing cost over $100 from memory. Pulled the mastercylinder and in reality all that needed doing was just the rubber seals.. BUt at the same time I was thinking what you were thinking what if it is more buggered that first thought....

JemmyBubbles wrote:Mine was leaking from the same location. I got a proper nissan reco kit with springs/seals/plunger thing cost over $100 from memory. Pulled the mastercylinder and in reality all that needed doing was just the rubber seals.. BUt at the same time I was thinking what you were thinking what if it is more buggered that first thought....

thanks dude, was it much of a job?

Just called my dude, and he said there are 5 different ones for GQs!!!!!! and narrowed it down to 3 different ones with Month and Yr of build Have to give chassis # to find correct one...

I'm thinking the replacement could be the go, I dont wanna get 1/2 way thru it and find I got the wrong chit

JemmyBubbles wrote:Mine was leaking from the same location. I got a proper nissan reco kit with springs/seals/plunger thing cost over $100 from memory. Pulled the mastercylinder and in reality all that needed doing was just the rubber seals.. BUt at the same time I was thinking what you were thinking what if it is more buggered that first thought....

You just have to make sure the metal piston has not scored the bore, or else the new seal kit will still leak, if the bore is not honed or sleeved.

Area54 wrote:You just have to make sure the metal piston has not scored the bore, or else the new seal kit will still leak, if the bore is not honed or sleeved.

Mate was talkin about a Honestone for cleaning up the bore, is it needed?
I wanna do it once and do it right.