Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey people i need to sort out wat tube to use for the custom links in suspension.

So far I am looking at using either 32NB Schd 160 or 40NB Schd 160
and standard nissan bushes (from rear links) at both ends of every link.

So wat sorta price should i be expecting for the two types of tube i have selected?
Wats a good supplier located on the gold coast or nearby (even sumone off the forum, as id rather support OL members)?
And does anyone have any reccomendations on a different tube to use for my links?

I already have all the bushes and ends just need the tube.

Cheers
Anthony

ADDED FROM POST FURTHER DOWN ABOUT FAB WORK
Well got all materials sorted (i think, still need bushes).

Now just to ask if anyone is interested in fitting the toy diffs under my car or atleast would like to discuss the option or have the opourtunity to do it.

As i wanna get this done by mid september and i have the $$$ just with my busy weekends I think it may be worth getting sumone to do the work for me.

Prefer sumone local to me (on the gold coast) and same as the steel would rather give sum work to an OL member

I can PM the details of wat sorta work need to be done to anyone who is interested.


Cheers
Anthony

if you want to splash some cash, use 4130 cro-mo. around 1200mpa uts. compared to mild steel 350mpa uts. you can achieve the same strength with far less weight. its not as easy to weld though. it can be mig'd but tig is probably better. find somebody with cro-mo experience to weld it.

how much cash should i expect to splash for chromoly
Lighter would be nicer.

the cr-mo i used for my tie rod was ~33mm OD and 6mm wall and it was $150/m

N*A*M wrote:the cr-mo i used for my tie rod was ~33mm OD and 6mm wall and it was $150/m

well chromo is out of the question Unless that price includes a case of beer and a $50 voucher to the brothel

How much difference in weight between the two types of steel mentioned? and how much difference do you honestly think it will make.

If its a full size wagon (GQ, Rangie etc) do you think its worth the extra coin and hassle going chromolly for the sake of saving a few small kilos in the grand scheme?

Not saying its not but just interested to see what other think.

I used 40mm od x 20mm id for my rear links.
20MnV6 is a carbon-manganese steel micro alloyed with vanadium, generally supplied in the black hot rolled condition with a typical tensile strength range of 600 - 790 Mpa and a high typical yield strength range of 440 - 570 Mpa.

Characterized by excellent machinability due to silicon - calcium treatment and precise control of the sulphur content, excellent weldability with high yield and tensile strengths due to the micro - alloying effect of the vanadium.

The low carbon content and the vanadium addition allows surface hardening by carburising, carbonitriding or nitriding. It will also respond to high or medium frequency induction hardening and can be through hardened and tempered producing a moderate improvement in tensile and yield strength, this varying depending upon wall thickness.

20MnV6 hollow bar is used extensively by all industry sectors for a wide range of applications utilizing it's considerable saving on machining time and weight over solid bar.
Typical applications are: Bushes, Cylinders Various, Conveyor Rolls, Hollow Shafts, Hollow Parts and components, Nuts, Rings, etc.


easy to weld easy to use.

Cost $100.00 for 6m

Michael.

HSV Rangie wrote:I used 40mm od x 20mm id
20MnV6 hollow bar easy to weld easy to use.
Cost $100.00 for 6m
Michael.

Sounds good and is in the right price bracket.

Well got all materials sorted (i think, still need bushes).

Now just to ask if anyone is interested in fitting the toy diffs under my car or atleast would like to discuss the option or have the opourtunity to do it.

As i wanna get this done by mid september and i have the $$$ just with my busy weekends I think it may be worth getting sumone to do the work for me.

Prefer sumone local to me (on the gold coast) and same as the steel would rather give sum work to an OL member

I can PM the details of wat sorta work need to be done to anyone who is interested.


Cheers
Anthony

AnthonyP wrote:well chromo is out of the question Unless that price includes a case of beer and a $50 voucher to the brothel

Jeepers, what you getting for your $50...??? Brothel near where my missus used to work wouldn't let you see the girls for anything less than a green one... I know 'cause I used to park in their carpark when I went to the restaurant to visit my missus... They used to try and intice me inside everytime.

Bluefreak wrote:

AnthonyP wrote:well chromo is out of the question Unless that price includes a case of beer and a $50 voucher to the brothel

Jeepers, what you getting for your $50...??? Brothel near where my missus used to work wouldn't let you see the girls for anything less than a green one... I know 'cause I used to park in their carpark when I went to the restaurant to visit my missus... They used to try and intice me inside everytime.

did you go in once and get a quote did ya

bohler uddeholm in melb -

cro mo en26 33mm bar @ $5.50 per kilo
cro mo 4143 33mm bar @ $5.00 per kilo
rough prices last time i checked

http://www.buau.com.au

afaik they have an office in qld

re : nok shops

brothel in moorabbin (melb) used to do a lunch time special -
pie and a bj for $50 - that was a few years ago, aparantly or so i was told. could be an urban myth....

send me a pm dude on what is required..

sierrajim wrote:How much difference in weight between the two types of steel mentioned? and how much difference do you honestly think it will make.

If its a full size wagon (GQ, Rangie etc) do you think its worth the extra coin and hassle going chromolly for the sake of saving a few small kilos in the grand scheme?

Not saying its not but just interested to see what other think.

pick up a old steel frame pushie and a new 4130 c/moly one. u'l soon see the weight diffrence

bilby wrote:

sierrajim wrote:How much difference in weight between the two types of steel mentioned? and how much difference do you honestly think it will make.

If its a full size wagon (GQ, Rangie etc) do you think its worth the extra coin and hassle going chromolly for the sake of saving a few small kilos in the grand scheme?

Not saying its not but just interested to see what other think.

pick up a old steel frame pushie and a new 4130 c/moly one. u'l soon see the weight diffrence

I was told (so could be wrong) that a 6meter length of 32nb sch160 (seemless steel pipe) would be about the same weight of 3 6m lengths of similar size/strength Cro-Mo
so i guess to say for the same strength its a third of the weight

Anthony, it isn't that pronounced a difference. For example if a main hoop is .125" (3.25mm) thick in CDW then you could expect to use .095" (2.4mm) Cr/Moly. For .102" (2.6mm) CDW then .083" (2.1mm)moly On the Sprintcars the main tubes are 1 1/2" X .095 (38mm X 2.4mm) Some early light sprintcars from the states were using .083" (2.1mm) but we won't compromise on those tubes on the sprintcars. The Jet boat tubes are all .083" thick and tractors in tractor pull events are only using .065" moly (to thin in my opinion)
For common tubes in sprintcars.
For tubes over your head we use .095", if its a bottom rail it's generally .083" but can go down to .065. A lot of our tie in tubes are .065" (1.6mm) and .049" (1.2mm)
It's surprising just how much a weight saving it makes on a full chassis when compared to steel.
Supercars are good to see, they use large diameter tubes but thin walls, lots of .065" and .049" and lots of tubes throughout the car to get rigidity. In linear feet of tube its heaps but in weight there's not a lot there really.
The thicker tube sizes in Moly (over .120") are expensive no doubt about it but they aren't common sizes and are only imported in small amounts by the importers as there's little call for them and they are expensive even in the USA.
A common used wall thickness in moly is .058" as it's known as the telescoping size. A tube with a wall thickness of .058 will accept the next tube size down with a clearance of .009" (.22mm).
For example you can get telescoping tubes going from 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8", 1", 1 1/8", 1 1/4", 1 3/8", 1 1/2", 1 5/8", 1 3/4".
So one wall thickness (.058") allows 13 different diameters of tubing to telescope into each other.
Regards Andrew.