Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Im about to oul my front diff out of my 80 series and im gunna replace the o ring in tho locker because it is spewing oil out everywhere.....

So just wondering if anyone knows wat the part num is???

also, does anybody know what the cost of labour to get the o-ring replaced is?

I'll make a couple of assumptions here.
I'll Assume that it is an ARB air locker that you have and that you have oil spewing out of the exhaust port of the solenoid on the compressor.

O-Ring kit is under $50 i think (from what i've heard). not sure on part number, but give them a ring. If it's all standard you should have an RD23 Locker (RD33 in th rear). Labour will prob be around the $300-400 mark but this is a rough guess , i could be way out. You probably should alow a few dollars to replace axle seals, flange gaskets, diff housing gasket. It might or might not be worthwhile replacing bearings whilst it's all apart to.

Hope this helps

Matt

yeah its spewing oil out the exhaust port..

and i have to pull the centre out because the diff nees new bearings so i figure its the best time to fix it..

i think for the rd23 the housing o ring is 160209 and there are 2 of them

Also ensure your breather is clear and has an open end on it with a petrol filter etc on end.

Do not reuse the toyota spring loaded toggle.
If these are on your axles now remove it and fit a hose and filter.

80 series (and 100) tend to froth the oil a bit which doesnt help.

Bazzle

the o-rings are about a dollar each. if you have oil ejection problems, first check the breathers as has been suggested. if the oil ejection is REALLY REALLY bad then while you have the locker out, replace the U ring too.

BUT!!!

If your locker works and the compressor does not cycle (or only cycles every 5 minutes or so) then you DO NOT have an o-ring or U-ring problem. Some oil ejection is normal and replacing the o and u rings will not fix it.

DD

Mine spews oil, not heaps but enough to coat the bottom of
my toolbox a little.

Lockers work fine and as you say compressor cycles every 5-10 mins.
So this is normal is it? I thought I had a leak somewhere.

Can I attatch a pipe to the exhaust port and have it drain into a
cannister of some sort?

How can I get this bit of pipe out of here to replace it?
(previous owner cut them off years ago)

All they are is a Viton O-ring if you take your sample into a bearing/seal shop they will probably have them on the shelf for a lot cheaper than ARB.

Give everybody a tip, take the o-ring out & replace it with a Viton Quad-ring, they last long & seal better than o-rings ARB just hasn't caught onto this yet

A quad-ring kinda looks like a seal but its just a square section and has sealing lips on each corner so they work great, I use these at work when working on hydralics & they work a treat

Toyo Truck wrote:


How can I get this bit of pipe out of here to replace it?
(previous owner cut them off years ago)

Press the orange bit in & pull the blue tube out

Now Festo don't sell a 5mm pneumatic fitting so you will need to go to a specialing pneumatic shop, i think that maybe SMC make a 5mm fitting but not sure on that, but just replace the fitting & oil shall stop leaking, or even better go visit arb & replace the solonoid valve assembly complete

Big Red Toy wrote:Give everybody a tip, take the o-ring out & replace it with a Viton Quad-ring, they last long & seal better than o-rings ARB just hasn't caught onto this yet

A quad-ring kinda looks like a seal but its just a square section and has sealing lips on each corner so they work great, I use these at work when working on hydralics & they work a treat

Maybe put up a part number for this certain Viton replacement so everyone thats searching in the futures knows exactly wat to get.

"Press the orange bit in & pull the blue tube out"

Not the actual air hoses,
the bit with the red arrow on it.
The piece of tubing that is stuck INSIDE the solenoid.
No orange thing to push in here.
How does it stay there?

Cheers,
Bart[/quote]

AnthonyP wrote:

Big Red Toy wrote:Give everybody a tip, take the o-ring out & replace it with a Viton Quad-ring, they last long & seal better than o-rings ARB just hasn't caught onto this yet

A quad-ring kinda looks like a seal but its just a square section and has sealing lips on each corner so they work great, I use these at work when working on hydralics & they work a treat

Maybe put up a part number for this certain Viton replacement so everyone thats searching in the futures knows exactly wat to get.

Not sure? they would all be different depending on which vechile its going in, but quad rings work so like others have said, take it out & take the o-ring to a shop & ask for one but thats really only if your doing it yourself i guess

Toyo Truck wrote:"Press the orange bit in & pull the blue tube out"

Not the actual air hoses,
the bit with the red arrow on it.
The piece of tubing that is stuck INSIDE the solenoid.
No orange thing to push in here.
How does it stay there?

Cheers,
Bart

My stuff up

Should of looked closer, WTF is tube doing in the end of the solonoid????
Buy a new solonoid if its leaking, your far better of in the long run with something brand new then something old which is repaired, so just unbolt the entire thing, throw it in the tool box as a spare & drop into arb & pickup a newy
cheers
Andrew

Toyo Truck wrote:DD

Mine spews oil, not heaps but enough to coat the bottom of
my toolbox a little.

Lockers work fine and as you say compressor cycles every 5-10 mins.
So this is normal is it? I thought I had a leak somewhere.

Can I attatch a pipe to the exhaust port and have it drain into a
cannister of some sort?

How can I get this bit of pipe out of here to replace it?
(previous owner cut them off years ago)

that black shorta 20 sided nut thingo unscrews.. then the black section lifts off the silver section, and u can see the exaust port clearly... if u still cant get it, the 2 small philips head screws undo from the silver bit, and this should lift the exaust right off free from the solinoid... ... if u have bad oil problems, but no air leaking replacing seals wont fix it, so consider a perch valve...