Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Look what I found in Germany.
I wish I could afford one of these...


http://www.power-trax.de/produkte/antri ... rbox-e.htm


http://www.marks4wd.com/Nissan-gq-gu-dual-tc.htm

They are made by Mark4wd in Aus (as it appears you already know). I'm fairly sure (if you live in germany) that you could import one from AUS cheaper than 2100EUR, as stated on their website, they are only AU$1250.

i have one

I reckon its a much better option than rockhoppers or the others..
you get to keep normal low range for starters.

bogged wrote:I reckon its a much better option than rockhoppers or the others..
you get to keep normal low range for starters.

I agree, and if you break something, it's probably going to be an ordinary GQ transfer case, which is easy and cheap to replace. Better than breaking the expensive aftermarket gearset.

while i agree dual tcases offers a lot of versatility, i believe for most people, gearsets are a much better option. the install shouldn't be overly difficult if you are meticulous and well prepared. you should be able to do it in a weekend. i'm not sure if it's the same for a nissan (as say for a hilux), but running dual cases will mean you will have to redo your driveshafts and transmission crossmembers.

Hey anyone, Bartso maybe? tell us more about this mod, any problems other than having to get new drive shafts made up? Anything unforseen that is not included in Marks kit?

Thanks for your help!

Paul

beretta wrote:Hey anyone, Bartso maybe? tell us more about this mod, any problems other than having to get new drive shafts made up? Anything unforseen that is not included in Marks kit?

Thanks for your help!

Paul

yea i'm curious about the kit also... getting instructions sent up to me from marks so i can check it out...

yeah i have one too. they are a pain do do right, and cost $$.

kit $1250 plus $50 delivery

second case $200,
new bearing $70 (you need a #45 torx to remove the factory one and it was late on a sat so i just bought the bearing) i have a full torx set now but its too late.

Front shaft inc centre bearing $650, second front shaft cut $200
Rear shaft cut $130

then you have to make a bracket for the centre bearing.

lengthen the second lever, cut up the floor to make it fit, remove most of the water sealing boots , then the lever hits the seats when they are foward (i have fixed back bucket seats), lengthen the speedo wires, fit breathers, fill another case with oil, and really should make a second transfer mount to take the torque loads. like the hilux ones that bolt on the rear of the case.

or you can buy 2x cheezy high crossmembers for $800 each and fit a lengthened front shaft, but i know it will prob cop a pounding when you don't want it to so i went my way, and it pivots at the 5 link pivot as well.

you will need 3rds upper arms or similar to rotate the diff for the increased angle as the whole lot is nearly 10" longer.

all up parts $2550, labour a lot, but i did it all myself.

i have a spare case now too for backup

got it last week

gears are a much better option for 99% of people. and you could fit gears in 6 hours, whereas this takes 4 solid days at a guess. its not any harder than fitting gears, just a lot more to it.

it is also not much lower than gears as they are 87% and this is 100%, but i am running 4.625 diff gears too so its around 87:1 now.

hope that answers the q's

cheers bru

Thanks heaps for that Bru, definately not going to entertain the idea, I'm not good enough mechanically to do it and I would prolly rather go the gears option. Just got a spare transfer case now, thought it was worth checking out for the future.

Thanks again,

Paul

i have a spare case now too for backup

got it last week



bru i think you've successfully scared of all bar the mechanical wiz's like yourself from doing the mod ....... but its good to get the full story and not a rosey picture like people like to paint......

as for the spare transfer what a bargain that can pay for the mud beers and mayhem sponsership of chevy smurf........

thanks mate. thinks happen when you are away for the week. i nailed the forklift around to bluey's and its in my hot little hands now. still owe you that carton

bru21 wrote:
Front shaft inc centre bearing $650, second front shaft cut $200
Rear shaft cut $130

then you have to make a bracket for the centre bearing.

cheers bru

whats the reason for the centre bearing?

GRINCH wrote:

bru21 wrote:
Front shaft inc centre bearing $650, second front shaft cut $200
Rear shaft cut $130

then you have to make a bracket for the centre bearing.

cheers bru

whats the reason for the centre bearing?

Two-piece front driveshaft? Heh, I just assumed that when I read it, I wonder if it's right.

Jason

Could you just leave the front shaft as is and just shorten the rear shaft instead, so you wouldn't need a centre shaft bearing?

Rainbow Warrior wrote:Could you just leave the front shaft as is and just shorten the rear shaft instead, so you wouldn't need a centre shaft bearing?

Do you mean just lengthen the stock front shaft?

sorry i thought i explained it.

cheezy runs a longer front shaft which would run through where the crossmember would be as the front out put moves back by 1/3 of a nissan case and the adaptor. so it is not possible at all as there is no line of sight (at any lift) without either removing the crossmember completly and running one supported from above that is out of the way of the drive shaft. cheezy offers a high one for around $800 and another one further back to support the back for a similar amount.

i didn't do this for mainly personal reasons that may not be the same with others

1) i don't buy stuff i build it, so i would have to make a high crossmember myself and build protection back under the case and i didn't have the gen 3 in then so i didn't want to stray too far from factory for fear it wouldn't fit.

2) i cringe at body lifts (esp with a 7" lift) so clearance above is an issue (he has a 2" and i think you need that to run a decent member)

3) the front shaft would have to be almost too long, i rang my shaft guy with the needed length and he was like yeah its pushing it but it should be ok.

4) it would piviot further back than my linkages and be in the way of abuse.

why i did my way

1) can handle big power, its is the same gear that group a commodores etc have started running in the rear.

2) it is out of the way and safe

3) i thought at the time that i could run a std length front shaft ( i cant)

4)it piviots at the arms so length change is minimised during flex.

5) i could keep the factory crossmember which is light and strong and offers protection, and has been proven, i intend to obc mine and am obsessed with stress cracking with aftermarket weld ons. nissan test the crap outta stuff and the more you change the less you can rely on.

hope this helps.

i would ring cheezy as his way is better for most, and similar in price, would work better for rock crawling with longer front arms, and most run body lifts. he also offers a pnumatic shift that i would jump at if i had my time again. the lever hits my seats and cutting the floor sucked for water proofness.

cheers bru

i have been thinking of this pnumatic shift and can't find any info on it champ and trying to get in touch with cheezy is impossible so you got any ideas of hw i could do it what i need?

just need an arb or similar compressor, a 2 position (force open force closed) ram with the right travel and either electric like arb solinoids (you are the man) or pnumatic valving to shift it. it is a two position movement only L or H so a switch will cost $100 and the fittings and line $50 ram guessing $100. i have a few rams lying around but their travel is too long ~200mm prob need 70mm. then i would cut the lever short attach the ram and weld fittings to hold it on the transfer gate and that should do it.

i have never seen or heard more than some one say cheezy's is pnumatic so the above is only what i think.

on another note i rang cheezy a week or 2 ago and he was there so just try. if you get through to the lady just say it is comp stuff and dealer can't help


or you could cut off both levers and make some outta 20 x 8mm and bend them so they nearly touch as they pass through the floor and out again so you can work them,

maybe even piss off the nissan rod end and use just a 20x6 plate with a bolt in double shear, and shorthen the gate spacers right up to keep it narrow (the cyclone rod nut looking things). it hits the tunnel (without a bodylift)
cheers bru