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Late model wheel bearing lock nuts/washers

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 9:35 pm
by Cossie
Just purchased the lock nut/washer setup for a GU to go on my 89 GQ.

consists of two nuts, two washers and 4 screws (not cheap - cost me over $40).

I dont trust the shitty old style locking washers one bit and as they will be apart quite a lot for regreasing and adjusting figured its best this way.




Anyone know if there anything particular about installing this setup? anyone know what the manual says to do?

I assume you just tighten up the nut as per usual to teke up the play in the bearings, then slide the washer over and put the 2 screws in?

Just seems a little odd to not have to reef on a seperate outer locking nut! :?

pic shows one side of the kit.

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:28 pm
by krimnl
I use this set up on my comp truck. i just tighten the nut up using a punch as tight as i can. turning the rotor while tightening. i then back it of a little to line up the screws. never have any wheel bearing issues at all.


p.s is that your sierra is your avatar?? is it a RS500 ?

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:57 pm
by Cossie
I've just done one side - I knocked up a basic tool to tighten the nut (2 bolts through a flat plate) then lined up the holes in the washer.
Seems 100 times better than the original ghay washers.


Yeah it is my Sierra Cosworth but its not an RS500. It knocks out almost 400bhp and 400 lb/ft so cant complain! I imported it from England when I moved out here at the end of last year and its only really been on the road for a couple of months since engineering/compliance etc.

Its also a bit cleaner than my GQ!!! :shock:

Image

Image

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:11 pm
by krimnl
nice car .

i have a sierra XR8 that i am getting engineered at the moment .
i imported it from south africa. 5ltr mustang motor factory fitted in it.

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:22 pm
by Cossie
Not being engineered at APS is it by any chance?

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:24 pm
by krimnl
Cossie wrote:Not being engineered at APS is it by any chance?

yep . its there at the moment

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:33 pm
by Cossie
Small world!

Paul is a good friend of mine, he engineered mine for me and helped me out a lot along the way.

I was speaking to him the other day and he said he had a V8 sierra in for compliance. :)

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:02 pm
by krimnl
Cossie wrote:Small world!

Paul is a good friend of mine, he engineered mine for me and helped me out a lot along the way.

I was speaking to him the other day and he said he had a V8 sierra in for compliance. :)
yep thats mine :lol: its a small world.

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 6:08 am
by GQ TROL
Ok, just for the benefit of those of us that don't get their hands dirty too often working on our own vehicles, could you please post up what the original GQ locking washer set-up looks like? Because on the few occassions I've stripped my hub / cv assemblies down....they look exactly like those new GU parts you've got there.

Is just a matter of winding the LH washer on with a screw-driver (poked through one of the holes) until its snug and there is no play, then smash the RH washer on and tighten with the 2 screws.

Ours are GQ Safari's if that makes any difference?

Cheers
Mitch

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 7:38 am
by planb
i just did some on a 92 dx last night

those old stile locking suck ass

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 7:27 pm
by Cossie
Just for you I went and took a pic of the old setup.

Put first nut on, then ghay thinass washer, bend washer over nut, then 2nd nut, then bend washer over this nut too. As you can imagine because the washer is so thin it just lets the adjusting nut move as you tighten the 2nd nut so you end up with over tight bearings - or they come loose on you!

With the new setup, you install the nut (a special tool is available or see pic below for one I made) this nut is on the right on the above pic /\.

Then slide locking washer on (it is much, much thicker than the old sort and engages over the two cutouts in the shaft) then put the 2 screws through the washer and into the nut. Thats it all locked up tight and no chance of coming loose! Its also reusable unlike the crappy old effort. :)

As a minor point the adjusting nut should be cranked up real tight to properly seat the bearings, then backed off and just 'nipped up' to take up the play and allow the wheel to spin. (which is why the 'special tool' is a bit bent in the pic ;) )

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 7:36 pm
by Cossie
For reference, the part numbers for this conversion are:

40262-02J10 Nut ($10.43 each, you need 2)
01414-00051 Bolt ($1.64 each, you need 4)
40264-02J10 Washer ($7.39 each, you need 2)

This comes to $46.42 inc GST, which is nothing for the time and effort saved, never mind peace of mind!! :armsup:

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:16 pm
by RoldIT
Do the bolts on your "tool" screw in or are they just used like pins? (ie threaded or smooth holes)

Do you know what diameter they need to be to fit in the retaining nut?

Any help would be great as I am just about to service my bearings on a GU and believe this is the setup I'm running.

Cheer. :D

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:18 pm
by marin
GQ TROL wrote:Ok, just for the benefit of those of us that don't get their hands dirty too often working on our own vehicles, could you please post up what the original GQ locking washer set-up looks like? Because on the few occassions I've stripped my hub / cv assemblies down....they look exactly like those new GU parts you've got there.

Is just a matter of winding the LH washer on with a screw-driver (poked through one of the holes) until its snug and there is no play, then smash the RH washer on and tighten with the 2 screws.

Ours are GQ Safari's if that makes any difference?

Cheers
Mitch
safari's have auto hubs, dont they? i think auto hubs have the GU style nut/washer setup.

marin

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:26 pm
by Cossie
RoldIT wrote:Do the bolts on your "tool" screw in or are they just used like pins? (ie threaded or smooth holes)

Do you know what diameter they need to be to fit in the retaining nut?

Any help would be great as I am just about to service my bearings on a GU and believe this is the setup I'm running.

Cheer. :D

They are 8mm bolts but were a tiny bit too big so I just touched them with a grinder so they fitted in - the holes are not threaded. Its just something I put together in about 2 minutes so its not the best but it does the job - I just put a big screwdriver in between the bolts and reefed on it to tighten the nut, worked a treat.

You could also use a hammer/punch if you cant be arsed to make a 'tool'.
If you're anywhere near Narre Warren you can borrow this one if you want.

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 9:53 pm
by RoldIT
Thanks for that.

I've already got a steel plate to use, just need to grap some bolts. I want to make it so I can use a torque wrench on it, just for my own peice of mind.

Cheers. :D

Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:18 pm
by bazzle
A piece of thickwall tube with 2 bolts weded on the ensd and a hole for a screwdriver in top of tube works even better

Bazzle

Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 12:28 am
by N*A*M
btt for another useful thread. i'm converting my old style to this style as i've seen first hand what a big difference it is for assembly and peace of mind.

Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 6:40 am
by ozy1
to anybody thinking of doing this, i would highly recomend it, i swapped to these on my daily driver/tow rig, and they are so mch easier to adjust, there is no flimsy lock washer,

i still have the old set up on my comp rig, but will definaly change that when i get time and dollars,

Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 9:44 pm
by N*A*M
yep i did the conversion and never looked back. fyi... i have a spacer/collar for my manual free wheeling hub that had to be knocked out first before the new bearing nut would fit on. just a heads up. not sure if other people would have to deal with this because i have mq knuckles.