Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys curious to know if anyone is running the rear recovery hook that bolts on to the position of the original looped bracket on the rear step of gqs and gus.The reason i was asking is that i have never snatched another vehicle using that point and was wondering whether they are rated high enough.
thanks for reading

on 4WD TV last night they showed a recovery hook that bolts onto that spot. i cant remember who made them, but if you check there website, its prolly listed there



4wdtv.com.au

recovering from that D spot on the rear alloybar has been discussed here before, but the 4wd association says its a no-no...

I use the rear Haymann Reece for mine.

Out Back Ideas makes the recovery hooks that replaces the D loop at the back of GUs and GQs. Contact John 0402 267 571.

I use the Outback Ideas hitch mount recovery hook

BlkMav, thats a nice looking rear bar you have.........you makes that one?

Great looking truck btw

mabsydney wrote:BlkMav, thats a nice looking rear bar you have.........you makes that one?

It's an ARB I bought out of the trading post, modified for the body lift, cut some holes for the reversing lights and powder coated black. They come up for sale occasionally but if you ask ARB nicely they'll make one. But only if you order 10!

blkmav wrote:

mabsydney wrote:BlkMav, thats a nice looking rear bar you have.........you makes that one?

It's an ARB I bought out of the trading post, modified for the body lift, cut some holes for the reversing lights and powder coated black. They come up for sale occasionally but if you ask ARB nicely they'll make one. But only if you order 10!

I reckon you could sell 10 of them too pretty easily... now if we only had some dudes here that worked at ARB that could get a copy of the design, then get AWILL to make em :D:D:D

You can easily make one like blkmav's, just buy some square section steel and a rectovery hook, cut steel to length, drill hole for hayman reece attachment and install hook with bolts provided. All up will cost you $20 and about an hour of your time

Bogged was talking about the rear bar and not the recovery hook

bogged wrote:

blkmav wrote:

mabsydney wrote:BlkMav, thats a nice looking rear bar you have.........you makes that one?

It's an ARB I bought out of the trading post, modified for the body lift, cut some holes for the reversing lights and powder coated black. They come up for sale occasionally but if you ask ARB nicely they'll make one. But only if you order 10!

I reckon you could sell 10 of them too pretty easily... now if we only had some dudes here that worked at ARB that could get a copy of the design, then get AWILL to make em :D:D:D

You'd want a hell of a lot more than 10 orders if you wanted ARB to remake anything like that! They are currently several weeks behind on Bullbar maufacturing for current vehicles with a lot of customers waiting a long time! So I dont reckon they'd be too keen to drop that and make a few old rear bars (I didnt even know ARB did them).

sspatrol wrote:Hi guys curious to know if anyone is running the rear recovery hook that bolts on to the position of the original looped bracket on the rear step of gqs and gus.The reason i was asking is that i have never snatched another vehicle using that point and was wondering whether they are rated high enough.
thanks for reading

I have used this hoop on the bakc of mine for many recovery's.

I have pulled out Toyota Landcruser 100 series with them in both sane and mud. Never had a problem with it, they seem very strong, in fact i think they were designed for this propose, as as the front hook on the nissan, designed for recovery operations

I wouldn't use them. For one the loop is too big, if you have any side pressure on it, it'll bend.
Also it's bolted to a crossmember. Whilst it should be a strong mounting, it's nowhere near as strong as directly to the chassis.
There's a hell of a lot of force put on these in a hard snatch, so dont cut corners.

Oh! BTW, i had the Nissan front hook break off as well. Truck was only 12 months old, went to use it and it was GONE. Broken off at the first hole. Must've hit a rock or two....

MyGQ wrote:... in fact i think they were designed for this propose, as as the front hook on the nissan, designed for recovery operations

no, they were designed for tie down points for shipping and towing.

I also use the Haymen Reece for recovery. Plus I have an extra recovery hook on the front for even pulling.

You do realise you can't put as much pressure on a tow bar as you can the chassis mounts. At best you can put only about 1.8 or 2.3Tonne on them

After that they break themselves. and the pins are designed to take less stress

I have bent 2 pins on a 2.3tonne rated tow bar, yet never had a single peoblem with the reverse loop or the front tow hook,

I ain't talking about the small loops at the front, mine has an actual reverse facing hook bolted to the Chassis, this is no way a tie down point for shipping, as that is simply going over the top for a tie down point and if the car did move int he rong direction using the reverse fackign hook, it would come off and roll away

The loops are the tie down points, the hooks bolted to the chassis are for recovery.

Our 4wd club uses the haymen and in 10yrs I have not seen a pin bend. Most of these tow bars are rated to 3.5t and bolt directly to the chasis. When the s/strap is connected it should take up the whole interior of the hitch.
Too much inertia may bend the pin but this would be in EXTREME cases only as I have said we have had snatch straps broken but no bent pins.

Pin in hayman reese type is meant to operate in shear not on bending . SO use a 2" channel section with pin thru it and use that with an eye etc.
A tow tongue with a "D" shackle thru ball hole is the easiest.


The Nissan cross member is suspect for that reason and also because the nuts are weld nuts and are soft in th threads. Not recommended for recovery.


Bazzle