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Removing the genII 3.0 automatic transfercase.

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

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Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:21 am
Location: USA

Removing the genII 3.0 automatic transfercase.

Post by DougH »

After I finally loosened up all the bolts for my crossmember I have been cruising along quite well. Thanks for the overview that you messaged to me Frank.

I just took the transfercase shifter out.

Do I need to screw with the tranny shifter as well. I would rather not if I dont have too. Somehow I feel like they are connected.

The factory manual blows, what a worthless hunk for shiet!!! It just shows you how to drop the tranny, not how to get out the transfer case alone. And even those directions are really spotty.

Is it just those 6 bolts at this point?

How much does this sucker way? I am doing this by myself so I need to make sure I am prepared for the wieght so I dont drop it on my face!!!

Any quick replies would be real helpfull. I only have about 4 more hours of light here in the US.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:21 am
Location: USA

Post by DougH »

To answer my own questions:

1st the tranny shifter doesnt have to be messed with at all. The center console will easily remove with it in place. The shifter cable is bolted on to the tcase on one side, just remove the retainer.

Remove the tcase shifter from the three nuts. There is a gasket that should be replaced. I am considering using rtv to replace it based on time constraints.

There is no breather line, just the dent switches. There are 5 or six of those, I lost count!!!

The tcase is heavy, over 100 pounds is my guess. But I was easily able to lower it down without a tranny jack, onto my chest and not my face.

Getting it back up there is going to be a huge pain in the ass!!!
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:21 am
Location: USA

Post by DougH »

Frank.

Could you please detail breaking apart the case and installing the new gears for me. I would appreciate the help. I am going to work on it tonight since I can use the garage lights and work inside.

What sealant did you use to stick the case halves back together? I am thinking regular red rtv should be fine.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:21 am
Location: USA

Post by DougH »

Just to make things better for me, the bolts that hold the halfs together are corroded like one ones business. Every other one is starting to strip even with penatrent and heat.

I hate this piece of trash truck. :bad-words:
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

Dougie, red RTV is fine we used it for Lloyd's & Patrick's cases.
We actually stripped a bolt on Daryus t/case (one of the 6 bolts that holds the t/case to the 5sp box) Andrew cut it off and re-studded it no problems.
It can be a real pain in the arse.
Also it took about an hour to get his 4 rear propshaft bolts out and the front ones wouldn't even budge so we left the propshaft there and slid the slip yoke onto the shaft when the case was put back into position.
Attached is a download for the scans from our Oz Gregory's publication it's 1.70Meg. It will definitely help with the tear down and assembly.
It's not rocket science but certainly pay attention and take notes.
http://members.iimetro.com.au/~frankyz/ ... 20Case.zip
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Posts: 397
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Location: USA

Post by DougH »

Frank,

I couldn't read much of the text in those scans, just too small and when I blew them up they lost all focus.

I have all the new gears in the tcase and everything is installed. I am trying to get the back half back on.

It drops down only to a certain level on the selector rails, and then gets stuck.

I am really stumped here. I cant get the two case half's to get close at all... they stop at almost and inch and a quarter away from each other.

I have the tail shaft sitting with the center diff, so nothing is on the second half.

Frank do you think I could give you a call maybe? I am going to be up 24-7 until I can get this back together. I only have two more days to get the truck fully functional or I am screwed.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:21 am
Location: USA

Post by DougH »

Never mind. I got this sucker in the bag. No more transfercases for me though, I am getting a bloody mechanic to do all my mods from now on.

The case is together now. The case isnt stuck in 4wd now that I fixed the interlock.

Now it is just a matter of finishing it up. I am so happy that it finally came together.

Now I just hope it goes in easy, and my other parts get here.

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 6:21 am
Location: USA

Post by DougH »

Frank,

Should I install with the tail shaft housing on or off??

It gives me more room but I am thinking that I might have a hard time sealing it under the truck.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

Dougie, glad to hear you worked it out.
It's always the first one that causes trouble once your familiar with their operation it's much easier.
Due to room I would mount the case with the extension housing off and fit it later when it's bolted up. There should be enough room to run the RTV around the mating face.
Let us know how you go with it.

Frank.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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Location: Aotearoa

Post by J Top »

While your under there Doug, chop out the torsion bar cross-member, you don't need it with the SAS, and it gives you a lot more clearance to get the box in and out.
Carl
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