Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have a 1HDT in my HJ75. I bought an air to water intercooler kit but I have yet to fit it. What has been your experience with increasing boost levels on this engine? How high a boost have people run on these engines? What is a comfortable level of boost for you?

Currently my boost gauge reads 12 psi at maximum boost. I think my turbo can handle higher boost levels. My turbo is an aftermarket turbo as it is no longer a Toyota CT26 and it seems to put heaps more power than my mate's HDJ80.

Dave

G'DAY, FIRSTLY WHAT BRAND TURBO DO U HAVE? WITH THE STANDARD TURBO IT RAN 12-13 PSI AT MAXIMUM OF 4.400RPM(49-64 KPA) WITH A WASTE GATE BREAK OFF PRESSURE OF 90KPA, WITH A WARNING OF "DONT APPLY MORE THAN 103 KPA".... NOW IN SAYING THAT I KNOW OF PEOPLE RUNNING CLOSE TO 20PSI WITH THE RIGHT TUNING. ONLY PROBLEM IS YOUR WASTE GATE/ DUMP VALVE.
EASIEST WAYS TO UP YOUR BOOST IS T-PIECE YOUR ACTUATOR LINE RUNNING FROM TURBO TO WASTEGATE, RUN LINE TO $15 BRASS ADJUSTER(PICKN UP AT LOCAL SPEED SHOP) SIMPLE AS TURNING KNOB TO ADJUST BOOST LEVEL, OR U CAN SPACE WASTEGATE OUT WITH WASHERS(1 WASHER =1PSI),OR U CAN REMVE YOUR WASTEGATE AND MAKE YOUR ROD ADJUSTABLE BY THREADING YOUR ACTUATOR ROD. IVE BUMPED MINE UP TO 15PSI.I GOING TO FIT INTERCOOLER AND GO UP TO 17PSI. IF YOU WHAT TO GO FULL BALLS TO THE WALL, GET A NEW INTAKE MANIFOLD MADE UP (SHORTEN INTAKE RUNNERS= LESS TURBO LAG ETC) WHAT EVER WAY U GO JUST REMEMBER TO GET MORE FUEL IN AND MORE EXHAUST OUT. SPEND THE $150-200 AND GET IT DYNOED TUNED BY A QUALITY DEISEL SHOP.

FORGOT TO METION TO GET A QUALITY PYROMETER, AND JUST KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR EXHAUST GAS TEMP( ENGINE INTERNALS SAFETY PAYS OFF!)

so what boost is comftable for a 1hd-ft with an intercooler ?

Thanks, Mack1. I have no idea what brand the turbo is as the motor was taken from a hopped up 80 series. It used to have an intercooler but the owner kept the IC Do most turbos have labels, etc. that identify them? All I can say is that the front housing does not say "TOYOTA CT26" as the factory turbo does. The motor had only done 90,000 kms so I expect the previous owner had swapped an aftermarket turbo for better performance instead of for replacement of a worn out one.

I have a pyro in place but at the most it only reads 600*C on steep grades and full pedal so maybe I should turn the fuel up.

So the stock wastegate breaks off at 90kPa which is equal to 13 psi? What if I let the wastegate read off manifold pressure after the intercooler where the pressure will be lower?

Cheers,
Dave

beanz2 wrote:Thanks, Mack1. I have no idea what brand the turbo is as the motor was taken from a hopped up 80 series. It used to have an intercooler but the owner kept the IC Do most turbos have labels, etc. that identify them? All I can say is that the front housing does not say "TOYOTA CT26" as the factory turbo does. The motor had only done 90,000 kms so I expect the previous owner had swapped an aftermarket turbo for better performance instead of for replacement of a worn out one.

I have a pyro in place but at the most it only reads 600*C on steep grades and full pedal so maybe I should turn the fuel up.

So the stock wastegate breaks off at 90kPa which is equal to 13 psi? What if I let the wastegate read off manifold pressure after the intercooler where the pressure will be lower?

Cheers,
Dave

with max power of 115kW from a stocker 1HD-T I would be very surprised to see more than 5 - 6 psi peak boost, considering a stocker 1HZ is 96kW. With careful attention to EGT's AND inlet temps I would feel safe pushing an internally standard 1HD-T to 14psi/100kPa, but would not exceed post turbo EGT's of 550C or inlet temps over 60 - 70C - so intercooling would be a necessity.

dumbdunce wrote: I ... would not exceed post turbo EGT's of 550C or inlet temps over 60 - 70C - so intercooling would be a necessity.

Ha! That scared the heck out of me until I checked my pyrometer. It reads in Fahrenheit so I should have said the EGT never exceeds 600*F (315*C)

Thanks, Brian. The IC will be going in this winter. Then I'll play with the wastegate some more.

In fact I've been pleasantly surprised the EGT has been reading that low. I still have to test the pyro's accuracy as it was a used unit I got on eBay.

Dave

Dave
Do u run a pusher pump??? i know a guy who put a hdt in a 60, and to cut a long story short, he was amazed at the difference the pump made to low down....he has it intercooled.
The overboost red light on a std hdt 80 is set to 12psi, a safari intercooled gq nissan with higher compression runs 14 psi, so the thing to do is screw it up after the cooler is on and run a pump to get fuel to the injection pump, and it should be ready for the dyno.
Andrew

Good idea. No pusher pump yet, but it will be on the agenda.

dow50r wrote: so the thing to do is screw it up after the cooler is on and run a pump to get fuel to the injection pump

Was that a Freudian slip?

Dave

beanz2 wrote:

dumbdunce wrote: I ... would not exceed post turbo EGT's of 550C or inlet temps over 60 - 70C - so intercooling would be a necessity.

Ha! That scared the heck out of me until I checked my pyrometer. It reads in Fahrenheit so I should have said the EGT never exceeds 600*F (315*C)

Thanks, Brian. The IC will be going in this winter. Then I'll play with the wastegate some more.

In fact I've been pleasantly surprised the EGT has been reading that low. I still have to test the pyro's accuracy as it was a used unit I got on eBay.

Dave

ha! it's a good thing we're not building mars space probes or anything eh.

300C is barely warm, it could do with a lot more fuel than that.

dumbdunce wrote: ha! it's a good thing we're not building mars space probes or anything eh.

300C is barely warm, it could do with a lot more fuel than that.

Duhh, that was a national embarassment

On the subject of turning up the fuel, what is the easiest way to rid of the tamper-proof sleeve on the fuel screw?

Dave

beanz2 wrote:

dumbdunce wrote: ha! it's a good thing we're not building mars space probes or anything eh.

300C is barely warm, it could do with a lot more fuel than that.

Duhh, that was a national embarassment

On the subject of turning up the fuel, what is the easiest way to rid of the tamper-proof sleeve on the fuel screw?

Dave

Pay the diesel tuner the $$$ and let them play with the pump... you can always get modded injectors thgat flow more!! hehheh!

Im running 18psi at the moment but have a pyro fitted and a 3" system fitted.It can reach 550c on a very long hill. Car goes like a shower of shite.

Dyno figures show 100kw at the wheels. Dont need modded injectors as they will flow more fuel than the motor can handle.

Hope this helps

Dzltec wrote:Im running 18psi at the moment but have a pyro fitted and a 3" system fitted.It can reach 550c on a very long hill. Car goes like a shower of shite.

Dyno figures show 100kw at the wheels. Dont need modded injectors as they will flow more fuel than the motor can handle.

Hope this helps

Thanks, 80diesel4play. A diesel tuner on this side of the pond is rare and few between and their services most likely would cost more than $200, but not many have seen a 1HD-T I'm sure they have seen a few Bosch VE pumps used on Dodge Cummins engines and they are very similar in design.

Thanks, Dzltec. Is your pyro pre-turbo or post? Do you have an intercooler fitted?

Dave

Hi,

my pryo is in the dump pipe, about 6" from turbine, no intercooler fitted at the moment.

Where is over the pond? If the diesel guys know how to do bosch ve, they will know how to do denso ve pumps.

The States

I'll ask around for shops that do Bosch VE's. Thanks,
Dave

dzltec u say u r running 100kw at the wheels with 18lbs of boost? that dont sound that good. i am running 10.5 and 110kw 142 hp and my temp only get 2 about 530- 550

What engine is in yours?
Dont forget this is a constant 4wd. They can sap up a little more power. Do you have a dyno sheet to show?

I added lpg to this beasty and it made 120kw with 600nm of torque, nothing else was changed.

Have fun

What engine is in yours?
Dont forget this is a constant 4wd. They can sap up a little more power. Do you have a dyno sheet to show?

I added lpg to this beasty and it made 120kw with 600nm of torque, nothing else was changed.

Have fun

dow50r wrote:i know a guy who put a hdt in a 60, and to cut a long story short, he was amazed at the difference the pump made to low down....he has it intercooled.

That'd be me. The pusher pump is disconnected now as it advances the timing too much and makes a bit of smoke and nice black oil.

The toyo turbo won't take over 13psi (or not for very long aparently) until it starts shredding off the blades, an aftermarket one will go a lot higher. A good i/c (Safari-thanks Andrew) will only drop 1psi boost acroos the core. Boost aint everything as I have 12psi at the turbo outlet, and 11 psi at the inlet manifold, worn out injector pump, 3" exhaust, 35's + 8% overdrive in high range and am putting out 122kW / 430Nm at the rear wheels. The exhaust temp is about 530degC maximum.

So, quick60, if you were to do it over again, would you fit a pusher pump? Guys on lcool swear by it.

Dave

guys i got a 13bt stock i going to fit a 3" and get it tuned say said between $200 and $300 so i gess i'll be paying 300.iam hoping for 15% increase in power and torque would that be realistic how much would lpg be

Dave, probably not , but I when I've got a couple of grand lying around to reco the injector pump, we'll play with on the dyno and see if it really does make a difference. The transfer pump on mine is worn out, so the pump does make a difference mid range, but only a little, and it's not worth the added soot in the oil from the timing advance, well at least that's my experience.

Cheers

Damian, that is a really good piece of info. Thanks!

Dave