Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

How long do the rear LSD's in Pajero's last?

I got myself into a hole yesterday and only the drivers side rear wheel would spin - both sides were pretty loose (had to engage in some road building before snatching out...

(Going from a Landcruiser to the Paj, talk about a different capability envelope and required driving style... )

Anyway - if it is that the LSD needs work, is it better to replace it with a diff lock or another LSD?
What diff lock would fit in the sucker?

The vehicle is a 1996 Pajero GLX Escape, 3.5 DOHC manual.

Cheers
Nick

The Mitsubishi LSD is a ramp-loading type, and a pretty good one. It requires both wheels to have some traction before it will work properly; this is easily achieved by pulling your handbrake on a few notches. I had my Paj stuck like yours a few times before I learned this trick.

Are you sure your Escape has LSD?

The only diff lock currently available for the 3.5 Pajero is the factory version; keep an eye on wreckers.

Cheers,

Scott

Yep Scott is dead right the Mitsu lsd is very good and lasts a long time.
Using the handbrake (a few clicks) to slow down the spinning wheel is very effective.
Sounds like you may need to do an oil change and use a good lsd additive. When I originally got mine the lsd didn't work too well but after an oil change and some additive it was working very well especially using the handbrake trick in muddy terrain.
Obviously a diff lock is much better but the standard issue Mitsu clutch pack lsd is pretty good. The later lsd's (97 on) were a Torsen type and were better again.
Remember there is a ARB front locker now available (RD110) but for the rear the best you can do is find a factory diff lock from a wreck but these are very rare for the 3.5 V6.

physh wrote: Going from a Landcruiser to the Paj, talk about a different capability envelope and required driving style

Yep - you'll be amazed at how much further a "Jabber" will get ya !!

Ive noticed that on full droop the hand brake tends to be pulled on slightly. Ive wondered if this may be even designed into it ? or just bad design ? if the park brake cable clamp bracket, on the suspenion arm is removed, it releases the tention on the park brake. this is why I think that maybe its designed to work this way.
Also the park brake needs to be justed properly.
Downside, when you go wheeling and give the rear a real work out, it stretches the parkbrake cables.