Outer Limits 4x4 Board

How many of you guys have done this job without removing the Transfer Case in a Classic range rover?

I was expecting a fairly easy job but I couldnt get the front housing to come all the way out because it hit the ZF pan and the exhast at the same time then i tried pulling the rear output shaft out to make it a little easier and still couldnt quite get it out. So i ended up pulling the entire transfer out

It is however going to make it easier to re-assemble on the bench and now im this far im going to put bearings through it.

Tony, if you able to post pics of the rebuild it would be handy for those who maybe going down that path soon - like me !

Loanrangie wrote:Tony, if you able to post pics of the rebuild it would be handy for those who maybe going down that path soon - like me !

Sorry im not one to document stuff like this. Its just pull it apart and put it back together for me. As long as you have a good memory you wont go wrong. There is nothing complex in these transfers.

Worked out after i could have got it out without removing the Transfer if i had un bolted the High Low shifter housing. But there was 1/4" of oil and dirt on top of this and i realy couldnt be bothered.

Why risk anything by not taking out the LT230 t/c as a unit? - it really is so simple.

When I was playing with my RR a couple of years ago and had to remove and replace my t/c, I had it down to about 20 minutes. All it takes is 3 x M10 x 100 long blank studs, a trolley jack and one person.

And don't forget to drill the t/c input gear and make an oil feed scoop as an extra safety for lubricating the g/b mainshaft when you have yout t/c out - absolutely vital.

deRanged Rover wrote:Why risk anything by not taking out the LT230 t/c as a unit? - it really is so simple.

When I was playing with my RR a couple of years ago and had to remove and replace my t/c, I had it down to about 20 minutes. All it takes is 3 x M10 x 100 long blank studs, a trolley jack and one person.

And don't forget to drill the t/c input gear and make an oil feed scoop as an extra safety for lubricating the g/b mainshaft when you have yout t/c out - absolutely vital.

What do the M10 Studs do?

I replaced the main gear when i bought the rangie with a late model cross drilled one and made the oil scoop at the same time. Its been in there almost 2 years now and still looks like new.

RUFF wrote: What do the M10 Studs do?

I replaced the main gear when i bought the rangie with a late model cross drilled one and made the oil scoop at the same time. Its been in there almost 2 years now and still looks like new.

You put the dummy studs into the g/b adapter housing and then just need to roughly line up the t/c and then just slide it in - no strain on the g/b mainshaft and no stuffed oil seals etc etc. Saves heaps of time and makes it a one man job with a trolley jack.

Daniel

Mine is Auto so the main shaft can be removed so its even easier. But this is a great idea for a manual gearbox. Thanks for the advice.

No diff whether manual or auto - it's still the same problem with trying to line up the g/b mainshaft with the t/c input gear whilst trying to line up all the bolt holes etc.

The studs hold all the weight whilst you lin eup the splines and then slide it home, bolt up a couple bolts, unscrew the studs and then repalce the remaining bolts and nuts.

Its still only a 5 min job to refit the output shaft and Transfer case input gear after fitting the transfer. And it makes it a whole lot easier.

RUFF wrote:Its still only a 5 min job to refit the output shaft and Transfer case input gear after fitting the transfer. And it makes it a whole lot easier.

Yes of course - I didn't understand what you meant.