Outer Limits 4x4 Board

It's been a bit quiet here recently
Anyway still investigating h/d aftermarket clutches for the Jabber.
Seems there is no Oz agent for centerforce clutches anymore and the only options are a Safari Tough Clutch made by Daikin (article in this months 4wd Monthly) and a RPM unit. Both claim 25-50% more clamping pressure.
Got the body blocks made up for the lift just got to buy the longer bolts and once the clutch is replaced the b/l will be done.
Then it's hullo 35"s

Bitsamissin wrote:Then it's hullo 35"s

Do ya reckon they'll help you drive C O C K P I T Track ??


OR is ya winch gonna get another 'work-out'

Well either it will or I'll smoke another clutch trying before I have to winch

hi frank i am leaving this saturday for my first big 4wd trip 3700km
we are going too Mt Augustus , karajini national park then to exmouth , coral bay and down the coast back to perth 11 days of touring .
you should check out my 4wd clubs website www.westcoast4x4.com.au

cheers


dino

Hi guys, has been very quiet here indeed. I only been fixing bits on my car of late, couldn't put up with all the creaks and bangs being my daily driver. I did remanufacture my 2500kg hayman reese towbar so that it sat 75mm higher, used to look terrible becuse the body lift left a big gap between the bumpers and it just killed my departure angle. now its up nice and high and i have a really good recovery point on the back. other than that the car is lookin fab and i thinking about sending an application into 4wd monthly for a feature. i mean who wouldn't wanna see a late model modded rag top paj???

Hey Frank,

What clutch did you end up going with ? I asked a bloke about the Safari ones yesterday at the 4x4 show and he said I'll have to ring him tomorrow (monday morn.) to find out if they make them for the NH's

I'm thinking of doing the clutch while I have the gearbox out to put in the transfer gears.

Yeah I ended up going the Safari Tuff Clutch, seems ok to date.
Looking at it compared to the PBR unit it replaced it is a lot beefier.
There certainly is a kit for the NH 5sp Paj.
From memory the clutch kit was about $360.

Frank.

I'm still working on the LWB. The engine is getting there. Heads are done, and like new. Putting new bearings in the block, and getting it decked and then the bottom goes back together. All new fuel injector o-rings were put in, and need to paint my new LH fender. Also putting new bumpstops on the upper and lower arms, new rear axle seals, (and rear brakes obviously), still have to finish mounting up new bumper. By May long weekend I might be ready to go?

This reconstruction bizz is getting to be a bit old, ya know what I mean?

Glad to hear the rest of you are getting out there.

Still haven't 100% decided on tires, but I'm thinking about forsaking the skinnies in favor of 33x1250 Procomps muds. We'll see. Need engine first.

Bitsamissin wrote:Got the body blocks made up for the lift just got to buy the longer bolts and once the clutch is replaced the b/l will be done.
Then it's hullo 35"s

Are you going with a three inch body lift instead of your current 2?

dough and phil,
I don't know if you guys realised but this is a post from july last year which has somehow been reborn. The stuff bitsa listed was done along time ago

mike

redrocket wrote:dough and phil,
I don't know if you guys realised but this is a post from july last year which has somehow been reborn. The stuff bitsa listed was done along time ago

mike

It must be a northern hemisphere thing... Duh!

But it HAS been kinda quiet here...

yeah it definately has. Just the usual questions lately, reminds me of trailtalk actually. What have i done hmmmmm, i painted my spare wheel black, ummmm removed the rear swaybar, oh i replaced the lower rear trailing arm bushes which got rid of all creaks, clunks, bangs from the rear end. went out on a nightrun a week ago and didn't lift a wheel off the ground. That was a first, i think it was the rear swaybar being off that made the final differance. next up is longer rear shocks i think, those bloody konis are terribly short. putting in rear draws and cargo barrier after that as well. trying to keep up with the jones. he has a gu patrol ute with everything on it. laptops and gps, water pumps, so much stuff we sit there trying to think of somthing else he can put on it.

mike.

My truck is sitting on the hoist waiting for my new rear axel. My vitara is at the panel shop getting a respray. My girlfriends proton is having major issue with the computer. Its a proton gti, 2003 model, 15000kms and proton aust and my local dealer dont give rats arse. I am told that its "normal" for the car to run like a bag of sh1t until it warms up.

So all my cars are off the road except my trusty little sierra, thats unreg anyway!

redrocket wrote:I replaced the lower rear trailing arm bushes which got rid of all creaks, clunks, bangs from the rear end.

mike.

Mike, what bushes did you use ? I could do with new ones in the bottom/back of the rear ones...where it goes onto the diff

PS it was me that revived this thread, I did a search for Safari clutches last night and this is the thread it came up with

i used superpro bushes from www.superpro.com.au they are a fully poly bush with only a metal sleeve for the bolt so they give heaps of flex. bastard to push out the old bushes(you will need a big press). easy job to pull out the arms and put the back in. its alright about reviving the thread for the clutch, it was doug who was getting confused about the body lift. i must admit that at first i wondered why frank was replacing his clutch again???? all good though. its turning into quite an informative thread now anyway.

mike.

redrocket wrote:i used superpro bushes from www.superpro.com.au they are a fully poly bush with only a metal sleeve for the bolt so they give heaps of flex. bastard to push out the old bushes(you will need a big press). easy job to pull out the arms and put the back in. its alright about reviving the thread for the clutch, it was doug who was getting confused about the body lift. i must admit that at first i wondered why frank was replacing his clutch again???? all good though. its turning into quite an informative thread now anyway.

mike.

Ehhh... cousin Dougie is confused anyways...

RedRocket, any worries about snapping the trailing arm at its narrowest point on a GenII? I know a few genIs over here that have broken the trailing arm at this point:


Some guys over here are fishplating under the arm, at that spot. The breakage seems to be exacerbated by removing the swaybar, which allows the trailing arms to twist more. I haven't taken my rear swaybar off the LWB yet, but probably will once I get it on the road.

Wonder how it would work if we wristed one?

As far as trailtalk being the same way, well, us old regulars are trying to get some good chats going. Like all forums, you always get an influx of newbies asking about the max tire size, etc, and the more seasoned posters get a little bored.. That's the way it is I s'pose, eh? Until somone brings up an old one, and everyone jumps on board again.



PHIL

Phil

Is this the sort of thing you mean by "wrist"?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=14032

Scott

NJ SWB wrote:Phil

Is this the sort of thing you mean by "wrist"?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=14032

Scott

That's exactly what I was talking about, Scott. Thanks man.

After reading through the thread, it seems the jury is out... but maybe a slight tip towards "don't do it"? Hmmm... I'd look into it simply to keep the arms from binding so much under full flex. Buddy of mine has his SAS Nissan wristed in the front, but on the rear is a different ballgame, I gather.

Any other thoughts from Paj guys? Since the thread is old, I guess its okay to hijack it?

Yeah, I was a little disappointed the thread died out - and somebody thought Pajeros have a five link rear

What about if the wrist had a limiter built in? Allow the arm to "break" but limit the angle? Might be a compromise between flex and handling?

People are also playing with slotted bushes - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=8508
Is there enough interest for chasing Paj bushes, or is there some reason they won't help?

Yet another silly thought - does anybody know if it's possible to install the rear sway bar upside down, so the loop goes above the diff input? It may be easier to build a simple disconnect that way.

Cheers,

Scott

ok then, few question to answer.

I haven't seen any broken arms before. I know that the old bushes(factory) have a metal sleeve on the outside and a vulcanised rubber bush with a bolt sleeve. The superpro ones i got were $150A(for a complete set) and they are a fully polyurethane bush with the sleeve in the middle, so they are missing the extra sleeve and thats how they 'apaarently' get more flex. Will see what happens after a while anyway.

When i took the swaybar off the back of my soft top swb i noticed almost no differance. The bar was only about 12mm in diameter and the fact that there was no roof weight on the rear is probably why. when the fronts off thats another story. like driving a boat. scott i told antt you were gunna meet at the bp for sunday. i will be meeting him there as well. i will be have a gu ute with me, it has tjm stickers on it and is big so if you can't see me then look for it.

Thanks Mike. So you think I should take the bar off this weekend to see what it feels like?

I was gonna meet at the BP, just hadn't got around to posting. I think I know the spot on Upper Ormeau road, but there are a couple of places we've come out, so I'm not sure.

With so many people coming I'm not sure how the day will go - we could end up doing a lot more watching than driving

Scott

You can always put it back on if its to swayey(hehe new word). Its a mongrel of a thing to get on and off though thats the only other problem. I know what you mean about lots of cars, i have been there twice before so if it gets bad we'll just bugger off up some other track. When i get down to the bp i will take my front bar off and throw it in the back. Waiting patiantly for frank to send me up his auto articulator

mike.

Yeah, I took my rear bar off on my SWB and found little difference. The front on the other hand, was kinda scary. The thing did a sort of diagonal wobble that was very unsettling... Got a feeling that the rear bar off on the LWB might make more difference, but not sure yet.

BTW, if you guys are looking for better street handling (gasp) the GenI LWB has a mondo sway bar compared to the SWB. My LWB has a 29mm bar, versus the SWBs 26mm... and I've heard of shorties with 25mm ones. Might be a good swap to make, before you order up the Articulator. That way you've got less sway onroad, plus no swaybar off the track.

RE: Wristing, I have to oggle my Niss buddy's a little more. Those new bushes sound like they might be the ticket though. Keep us posted on em.

Sounds like you guys have a good weekend coming.. lucky buggers... I'll be out in the garage - AGAIN, trying to piece the beast back together.

PHIL

Now that I think about it, I've got heavier springs in the rear, so the rear bar probably doesn't do as much. The biggest concern I have is that my girlfriend drives it (occasionally) and she hasn't quite grasped the concept of "smooth".

When we first met her lane changes were similar to a Grand Prix car on a tyre warming swerve. She's better now, but still a bit of a concern

Might have to look into a heavier front bar with the auto-articulator... Frank? Or T/C?

Scott

Yeah my front swaybar with the auto articulator is 28mm in diameter.
Mike remember to run it you need a compressor and air tank but it really works well much better than what I thought).
When all the IFS bits are removed I'll post a full list with prices should be in a few months now.

I have the larger front bar off a diesel lwb and i think it is about 29mm. that made a differance from the 26mm standard swb bar. The air compressor is coming frank don't worry bout that. You just gimme first gawk at the list of bits and we'll be right. Afterall we've known each other for near on 4 years now and never met face to face. how sad carry on chaps.

mike.

I wrote:Yet another silly thought - does anybody know if it's possible to install the rear sway bar upside down, so the loop goes above the diff input? It may be easier to build a simple disconnect that way.

OK, I crawled under and checked last night - pesky little things like brake proportioning valve and exhaust system will get in the way. Looks like it has to come out

Scott

NJ SWB wrote:

I wrote:Yet another silly thought - does anybody know if it's possible to install the rear sway bar upside down, so the loop goes above the diff input? It may be easier to build a simple disconnect that way.

OK, I crawled under and checked last night - pesky little things like brake proportioning valve and exhaust system will get in the way. Looks like it has to come out

Scott

brake proportioning valve hey? i don't have one of them anywhere under the back of mine. am i missing out perhaps?

redrocket wrote:brake proportioning valve hey? i don't have one of them anywhere under the back of mine. am i missing out perhaps?

Maybe it's not? Little block with what appears to be three brake lines attached, then a spring from a lever on the valve to a bracket attached to the axle housing. I just guessed it's one brake line in, then two out, and the spring is some form of sensing of axle torquing under brakes?

Didn't have a real good look, just found it was in the way and didn't appear easy to shift.

Does anyone actually know what it is?

Scott

I think you're pretty spot on... It explains what it does in my Gregory's manual. I don't remember exactly what it says but that sounds pretty close.