Outer Limits 4x4 Board

This is the thread to post the most obscure toyota realted question & see if the Toyota Guru has an answer.

Here goes my feble attempt:

Will a 1HZ block bolt up to 1H-DT head??

Mytqik wrote:This is the thread to post the most obscure toyota realted question & see if the Toyota Guru has an answer.

Here goes my feble attempt:

Will a 1HZ block bolt up to 1H-DT head??

yes the head and the block will bolt up, I am pretty sure a 1HZ block is more or less identical to a 1HD-T except it is drilled for the oil supply and drain for the turbo. The bopre and deck height are the same, the big end bearing cradle is the same. The crank is the same (same journal size for mains and big ends, same stroke) but early 1HZ cranks were not nitrided. now the same part number is used for replacement cranks for 1HZ, 1HD-T, 1HD-FT, 1HD-FTE. The pistons are very different (combustion chamber in the direct injector piston), and the heads are obviously different. conrods probably the same. camshafts are different between turbo and non turbo. timing belt and all timing gears, timing cases, vac pump and power steer pump, sump are the same.

so - no you can't make a 1HD-T just by bolting on a top end, but yes you could build a 1HD-T (effectively - the engine number would still be 1HZ) on a 1HZ block.



Bring it!

Outerlimits 0, Dumbdunce 1

So does that mean a 1hz extractors would bolt up to a 1h-dt??

(the reason i ask is that I *may* be able to get a cheap 1h-dt bare motor & was wondering if I could effectively bolt this in where my 1hz is. I would then add the turbo to the 1h-dt as $$$ become available)

Mytqik wrote:Outerlimits 0, Dumbdunce 1

So does that mean a 1hz extractors would bolt up to a 1h-dt??


(the reason i ask is that I *may* be able to get a cheap 1h-dt bare motor & was wondering if I could effectively bolt this in where my 1hz is. I would then add the turbo to the 1h-dt as $$$ become available)

yes I think the bolt/port patterns are the same, but without the turbo a direct injected motor is pretty rough. you wouldn't like it and it's probably not very good for the big ends to rattle all the time under load.

the 1HD-T will bolt in where the 1HZ was but the spline in the clutch will be different so you need to get a custom driven plate ($$$$ - there is an isuzu part that works but it is over $400 from memory) or use the 1HZ flywheel with a heavy duty aftermarket clutch (the 1HZ factory clutch WILL NOT cut it with a 1HD-T).

don't run the 1HD-T without the turbo. it will smoke and be noisy and rough and has crappy compression so it won't make good power. a CT26 from a wrecker should only be $400ish - could probably use one off a supra if you can't get a cruiser one - wheel trims and A/R's will be different but any turbo is better than no turbo.

Dear Dunce, oh guru of all things yota.....

1. What is the allowable spider gear backlash in my yota lux 4.88 diffs?
2. Is it safe to run a diff that has obiously been in the front of a hilux axle for a number of kms in the rear axle of a hilux?
3. How much can you get me one hilux 8" airlocker for (dont need compressor, just the centre)?
4. Why do toyotas reign supreme over nissans?

dear dunce

is the clutch setup on the back of the H (not 2H) diesel motor and the clutch setup on the F (not 2f) motor interchangeable (i know their similar design)

Ouy Brian
How do u remove a 1hz injection pump from the alloy casing without breaking the casing ???????
:-)))))))
Andrew

How low is too low for a oil return line tapped into a 3l engines sump for a turbo?

whats the highest safe RPM to rev out a diesel 3L (like on the freeway)... when im punching a dollar twenty five on the M1 im reading about 3100rpm... it doesn't heat up, and it uses a lot more fuel, but whats the consequences?

Gribble wrote:Dear Dunce, oh guru of all things yota.....

1. What is the allowable spider gear backlash in my yota lux 4.88 diffs?

the tolerance is fairly wide and in any case not that critical, the range is in the order of .02mm to .25mm, obviously less is better.

2. Is it safe to run a diff that has obiously been in the front of a hilux axle for a number of kms in the rear axle of a hilux?

yes. in fact this is arguably good way of almost doubling the life of your diffs since the front, standard rotation diff in a hilux is driven on the overdrive side of the teeth when driving forwards. It is wise to check the crownwheel backlash first - unless it has had a hard life though it should be like new.

3. How much can you get me one hilux 8" airlocker for (dont need compressor, just the centre)?

I think they are $1100ish - ARB doesn't give me any discounts :(

4. Why do toyotas reign supreme over nissans?

the seats don't tear out of the floor in toyotas when you drive 20km of corrugations.

bad_religion_au wrote:dear dunce

is the clutch setup on the back of the H (not 2H) diesel motor and the clutch setup on the F (not 2f) motor interchangeable (i know their similar design)

ok you've got me there. turbo4t might know - he had a H in the shop a few months ago. otherwise I'd ring Hardparts and ask them to cross reference the part numbers for both engines.

the H motor is junk anyway, get rid of it

dow50r wrote:Ouy Brian
How do u remove a 1hz injection pump from the alloy casing without breaking the casing ???????
:-)))))))
Andrew

obviously it cannot be done

(that one was really really really stuck on there, normally the gear just about falls off when you undo the nut)

De-lux wrote:whats the highest safe RPM to rev out a diesel 3L (like on the freeway)... when im punching a dollar twenty five on the M1 im reading about 3100rpm... it doesn't heat up, and it uses a lot more fuel, but whats the consequences?

engine wear rate is approximately proportional to the square of the rpm, for normal operating conditions (ie below redline), all other things being equal (assuming no knocking or oil starvation at very low rpm), so "safe" is a relative term. 3000rpm will not immediately damage the motor, but it will stress the loaded components a lot more than slightly lower revs. You should aim for cruising speeds at around, or slightly above your peak torque (around 2500rpm for a 3L I think). at peak torque your engine is operating at peak efficiency, so you get the best balance of wear, speed and fuel economy. Fuel economy is however also adverly affected by air resistance, so an even lower speed will produce peak economy - probably around 70 - 80km/h for a hilux.

since the speed limit on the M1 is likely to be 100 or 110, sticking to those speeds will definitely reduce the potential wear and tear on your wallet and on your license.

Dunce,

what does bundera mean (in aboriginal) ?

Rock Wallaby wrote:Dunce,

what does bundera mean (in aboriginal) ?

toyota Australia's marketing department would have you believe it means 'Rock Wallaby' which may well be true for a particular aboriginal language or dialect, but since there is no language called 'Aboriginal', the statement is at best a half-truth

Will the fan shroud off a 2.4ltr diesel 2wd hilux fit my 2.8ltr ln106? Apart from capacity the engines and fan position look identical...

Dear Dumbdunce
Will my 2.8TD hilux with IFS rears and extended shackles be able to tow a boat without getting axle wrap??

dumbdunce wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:dear dunce

is the clutch setup on the back of the H (not 2H) diesel motor and the clutch setup on the F (not 2f) motor interchangeable (i know their similar design)

ok you've got me there. turbo4t might know - he had a H in the shop a few months ago. otherwise I'd ring Hardparts and ask them to cross reference the part numbers for both engines.

the H motor is junk anyway, get rid of it

WOO HOO I DID IT

the H is a fine motor. if your not in a hurry. or don't need to source a clutch for it

ToNkA wrote:Dear Dumbdunce,

I met this girl a few weeks ago and I have had a killer rash since then. It is all flakey and wont go away after I wash.

What can I do?

stay away from my mum next time

Sorry boys

Dumbdunce cannot answer any further questions until he finishes his afternoon nap

phippsy wrote:Will the fan shroud off a 2.4ltr diesel 2wd hilux fit my 2.8ltr ln106? Apart from capacity the engines and fan position look identical...

probably. I think they have the same diameter fan. suck it and see.

DD - Please list all supercharged engines that will bolt up to a std 94 hilux petrol gearbox etc that has got a 22r in it now.

Looking to blow my lux

phippsy wrote:Will the fan shroud off a 2.4ltr diesel 2wd hilux fit my 2.8ltr ln106? Apart from capacity the engines and fan position look identical...

i have the fan shroud from my LN106 2.8D in my shed... you want it Jason?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 786#610786

BadLux wrote:Dear Dumbdunce
Will my 2.8TD hilux with IFS rears and extended shackles be able to tow a boat without getting axle wrap??

I wouldn't drive even a non-turbo hilux with IFS rears, let alone towing with it. as soon as you point it at someting steep in low range it will wrap up, it will destroy your springs and if you're extra lucky it will take out shocks and other stuff when it happens. stop being a sook and build yourself a wrap bar, it is cheap and doesn't take long.

Goodsy wrote:http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 786#610786

no matter what you do you will never, ever be happy with IFS if you want to drive hard off road. you will either keep spending incrementally over the few years you put up with it until the vehicle is destroyed or you get fed up with IFS, or just cough up now and do a SAS and get it over with.

upgrades, changes alterations to the IFS system over the years have made it a bit stronger but the bottom line is the diff is too small and the articulation is too poo. Owning a patrol is almost preferable to owning an IFS hulix.

benhl wrote:DD - Please list all supercharged engines that will bolt up to a std 94 hilux petrol gearbox etc that has got a 22r in it now.

Looking to blow my lux

so it has a G52 gearbox? 1G-GZE I think will fit. you can turbo or supercharge the 22R, it's good for a mild boost - a more interesting conversion than an engine swap. but if you want a sports car, go and buy a Pulsar GTi-R or something - if you want a good offroader, don't waste money on an engine swap. Engine swaps are almost always disappointing and almost always cost twice as much as you budget (the exception is swapping ratty old V8's into ratty old patrols or cruisers where there is no EFI drama, the bellhousing is sourced cheap and second hand, and the engine is only a few hunnert bucks)

if you want an offroader, invest in (in this order), a winch (hand or power, whatever will give you the confidence to tackle trails where you know you will get stuck - 10 years ago I was tacking trails like Porters on 31" tyres, stock suspension, no lockers or LSD, and a tirfor - THE WINCH GETS YOU HOME!), lockers, suspension, tyres, and gears.

What does IFS mean... and how do i know if i have it?

Or perhaps high n mighty's question from earlier this year about any "known" problems with baffles in 2L/3L series rover covers causing problems in turbo applications.

what year did the larger pins in the shackles on bj/fj 40-42

Tiny wrote:what year did the larger pins in the shackles on bj/fj 40-42

The 45s changed at the same time as well.