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Strengthening full float rear axles
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Strengthening full float rear axles
just wondering if anyone has figured a way to strengthen a full floating rear landcruiser axle? (i put it here and not the toy section cause some other makes may have ideas)
a friends cruiser destroyed the rear hub yesterday under power on the road. it already had the studs replaced with high tensile bolts, but it sheared all these and destroyed all the dowels.
so any ideas?
a friends cruiser destroyed the rear hub yesterday under power on the road. it already had the studs replaced with high tensile bolts, but it sheared all these and destroyed all the dowels.
so any ideas?
what model
i have had this problem, i was using bolts also but the stud conewasher,springwasher and nut are stronger. try uprading the studs to 100 series stuff it is 10mm over the 8mm stuff. you will have to mod the axles and hubs. there is a thead in here somwhere on it.
edit maybe makes more sense now.
edit maybe makes more sense now.
Last edited by tuf045 on Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reptile fabrication.
www.agroautomotive.net
www.agroautomotive.net
Check the housing isn't bent and use only genuine studs
I was breaking studs driving down the road, i had the hub and axels machined and all were true and straight (Axels straight as could be expected) i still had problems
Then i replace the entire housing, went from 34- 38 inch tyres (which i have been running now for 12 months) and broke my first stud 2 weeks ago.
The housing showed no visable signs of being bent
I was breaking studs driving down the road, i had the hub and axels machined and all were true and straight (Axels straight as could be expected) i still had problems
Then i replace the entire housing, went from 34- 38 inch tyres (which i have been running now for 12 months) and broke my first stud 2 weeks ago.
The housing showed no visable signs of being bent
I done the 100 series 10mm studs and dowels job years ago and run a 454 Chev with upto the 38.5 16 claws and never had a problem i now run 100 series 32 spline axles but never had a problem . I do however use care when stripping down for wheel bearings etc to ensure that the tapered holes in the axles are purfect ( dont strike the out axle flange to release collets ) if these are kept in very good condition this is a great fit for big power and big tyres. I had a special cutter made up for cutting the tapered holes in the axle to ansure the angle is purfect so as to lock onto the collet and onto the stud.
Wally
Wally
THERES ONLY ONE SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBES AND THATS MORE and if you want more inchs stroke it !!!!!!!!!!!
Has anybody just tried running 10mm or 3/8UNF bolts without the cone washers - just straight bolts.
The only reason Im suggesting this is that his is the way range rovers run them (3/8UNF bolts and only 5 of them) and rangies nevey have a problem. Even when the bolts come loose (which happens often) that still dont shear them off.
If you guys ran bolts without the cone washers you could step up to a grade 13.2 cap head bolt and there would be no way you could shear one of them.
Sam
The only reason Im suggesting this is that his is the way range rovers run them (3/8UNF bolts and only 5 of them) and rangies nevey have a problem. Even when the bolts come loose (which happens often) that still dont shear them off.
If you guys ran bolts without the cone washers you could step up to a grade 13.2 cap head bolt and there would be no way you could shear one of them.
Sam
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