Outer Limits 4x4 Board

[img][img]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a176/ ... Beast2.jpg[/img]


Its a series 3 that has been chopped into a 100" wheel base. It has a 186 petrol in it that we (HI JACK & I) will pull out and replace with either a 3.5 or a 4.4. A ZF auto is on the wish list. It has a salisbury in the arse end with 4.7 diffs, but we will ditch those and put coil sprung rangie diffs under it. The RR diffs are wider and we want it to ride on coils. Some bar work and a fresh coat of paint should see us (hopefully) running it around a few comps next year.

Should be a good experience for us, because neither of us are wizards with the spanners, but we know how to ask questions and are keen to give it a good go. Failing that, the boys at Haultech might have to have some money thrown at them to finish/fix what we have started.

Micka.

if your going to go coils and a new motor check out the thread" how to build a rig from stock to ttc in around three weeks" in the members section. some great ideas from the haultech boys
cheers, serg

Yeah, I read that one, Serg.

They certainly don't mess about when it comes to getting the job done. I like the 4 link set up they did on the monster.

Micka

Hey! I like very much!!!

can ya get some more pics of the tray and how its mounted?

Cool, I like it.

Can post up some pics of the roof and sides?
Looks like its a wagon roof thats been cut down for a flat rear wall?

Planning similar stuff, just need time.

Dave.

ive seen plenty with the flat back that dont look like they have been choped tho dave...

They are though.

Edit: I see what you mean, its a standard rear ute wall from the factory, but everything above that has been cut and shortened - roof and rear window wall ect.

If I do this, I get to keep my nice ute roof and then can push my seats back approx 15cm.

Dave.

These are all the pics that I have. It's now is pieces. We are going to have the chassis sandblasted and mount the RR diffs. Our suspension is getting close to the final design. It is mosr likely going to be A Frames front and rear with custom links. Our own design on the mounts for the suspension. Hopefully it will work well.

Our heads tell us it should, anyway

Micka

Sounds like a good project Micka.

If it was me I would keep the salisbury - buy a long side maxi-drive or jacmac county axle (short side is the same) and widen the long side tube by about 6" so the axle fits. Then you have a county rear without the link mounts (which you don't need anyway since you are doing custom links). You can shave quite a bit off the bottom for clearance.

Then in the front rangie axle casing you can fit a 4.5:1 hilux diff centre. That will give you a much stronger drivetrain than using rover diffs and much better low range. If it is only a comp vehicle you shouldn't notice the ratio difference - I think some of the haultech buggies often run a faster ratio front diff.

ISUZUROVER wrote:Sounds like a good project Micka.

If it was me I would keep the salisbury - buy a long side maxi-drive or jacmac county axle (short side is the same) and widen the long side tube by about 6" so the axle fits. Then you have a county rear without the link mounts (which you don't need anyway since you are doing custom links). You can shave quite a bit off the bottom for clearance.

Then in the front rangie axle casing you can fit a 4.5:1 hilux diff centre. That will give you a much stronger drivetrain than using rover diffs and much better low range. If it is only a comp vehicle you shouldn't notice the ratio difference - I think some of the haultech buggies often run a faster ratio front diff.

I had a quick look at the short side axel - admittedly without a tape - and the RR looked longer

I'll do some measuring today because if what you are saying is right, then that is indeed a better option. I thought about trying to swap the housing at a wrecker so I could get a County rear, but yeah, why not widen the one I have?

Thanks

Micka

Its the way to go.

County/defender rears are $$$
If your going to be doing custom suspension then all the stock mounts will be changed anyway, so there isnt a great deal more work added to the task.

The old girl will wheel again

Ahhhh.....the memories, that car has had many life changes from her humble beginning.....at her peak she was SWEET...sounded good and went well too

Take good care of her LANDROLLER was part of our family for a few years (even though i was too scared to drive her,it was a beast )

-Mandy- wrote:

The old girl will wheel again

Ahhhh.....the memories, that car has had many life changes from her humble beginning.....at her peak she was SWEET...sounded good and went well too

Take good care of her LANDROLLER was part of our family for a few years (even though i was too scared to drive her,it was a beast )

Seriously?

She was yours? How cool is that

Well she's in a bit of a mess at the moment, and when she comes out the other side, there won't be much of her left
Pretty much only the bonnet - cause of the scoop
And the chassis.

Everything else has a date with the gas axe

Micka

i am soo gonna watch this spot

She was my stepdad's

I watched her being built up from stock to rock...awesome gearing in it,was rather capable

She has given the whole family a couple of scares (including Mum )

Micka wrote:
I had a quick look at the short side axel - admittedly without a tape - and the RR looked longer

I'll do some measuring today because if what you are saying is right, then that is indeed a better option. I thought about trying to swap the housing at a wrecker so I could get a County rear, but yeah, why not widen the one I have?

Thanks

Micka

What I say is correct. The Series axles are about 55" WMS-WMS, coiler axles are about 61". But in the Salisbury only, just the long side axle was lengthened. So all you need to do is buy a County (not defender) long-side axle, and lengthen the long axle tube by the difference in length of the two axles.

If you measure the axle shafts from a rangie rear they will be longer than the salisbury axle shafts because the diff centre is a lot bigger (and hence the shafts shorter). So the total length of both shafts in a 110 county is probably about 4" shorter than 2 rangie rear shafts - but both axles are the same width.

Are the rangie hubs the same length as the county?

My plan was to use rangie hubs and brakes (to get disks instead of drums)

Would this still work Ben?

(Sorry for the slight hijack Micka )

Dave

DaveS3 wrote:Are the rangie hubs the same length as the county?

My plan was to use rangie hubs and brakes (to get disks instead of drums)

Would this still work Ben?

(Sorry for the slight hijack Micka )

Dave

No worries Dave...we're both learning something here.

Thanks Ben.

Would it be ok for me to PM you at a later date with pics/problems for your opinion?

Micka

Micka wrote:

DaveS3 wrote:Are the rangie hubs the same length as the county?

My plan was to use rangie hubs and brakes (to get disks instead of drums)

Would this still work Ben?

(Sorry for the slight hijack Micka )

Dave

No worries Dave...we're both learning something here.

Thanks Ben.

Would it be ok for me to PM you at a later date with pics/problems for your opinion?

Micka

Micka,

Doing a disc conversion to a salisbury is easy, but you won't really notice the difference between rear drums/discs if you have front discs - maybe only if you reverse down a steep hill after doing a water crossing.

If you want to do a disc conversion there are a few ways to do it:

(1) machine down the ribs on the existing hubs and drill and tap them so you can bolt a RR rotor to them. Then you just need to make a caliper bracket.

(2) You can also swap the RR hubs and discs onto the salisbury, but you will need to use a rr or county stub axle/spindle as well since the wheel bearings are different sizes on a rr/county and a series (series have slightly bigger bearings). The only other problem you will have if using rangie hubs is that you will have to redrill the series 6-bolt drive flanges to the rangie 5-bolt pattern - and you will also have to make spacers for the drive flanges if you are using rangie hubs (but not if using county front hubs).

You still need to make a caliper bracket. With option (1 and 2) you can use whatever caliper you like - early ford cortina front 2-pot calipers are good (bigger than rangie and 110 rear) and only cost $15 an axle set for pads.

(3) If you don't have a lathe or want to spend a bit more for a completely bolt-on option - You can mix and match parts to get everything to bolt on. I think you need (but not 100% sure):

Bolt-on caliper bracket (200Tdi? - forget part no.)
Defender rear calipers
Late 200Tdi disc hubs?
Not 100% sure on this as I said.

No problem if you want to PM me.

are you getting rid of those leafs? if so i call dibs

Mick, if you want a new rear axle for a salisbury, try Karcraft in silverwater (sydney) 02 97379944. i bought a short one last week for $86. IMO thats pretty cheap.

Ben, i have just swapped my rear diff for a defender one and gained rear discs. There is a noticable difference in the braking performance.

Andrew

I did the same, when I went rear Maxi, Andrew. Big difference in braking, pedal has real feel, braking vastly improved, and none of that total fade after water crossings.