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removing rear diff

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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removing rear diff

Post by vanbox »

i wanna remove my rear diff to weld it. i was just wandering how i slide the axles out of the diff. i have hydraulic rear drum brakes and unbolted the plate that holds the brake pistons on, exposing the bearing casings. but beyond that, do i give the axles a tap to get em out, or is there something i have missed.
MUD BEERS and MAYHEM

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Post by droopypete »

1. loosen the wheel nuts.
2. unbolt rear tailshaft flange and wire the tailshaft up and out of the way.
3. put rear axle on axle stands.
4. remove wheels
5. disconect hand brake cable from drums.
6. disconect brake lines.
7. remove 4 nuts holding the backing plate to axle tube.
8. remove 4 nuts on the front of the drum
9. remove drum and inspect linings.
10. replace drum and nuts.
11. refit wheel but only do the nuts up 1/4 way on.
before the next step make sure your axle is securly on the stands (and I mean stands not Besser blocks)
12. using your wheel as a slide hammer pull in a short sharp action.
13. swear a bit
14. yank on it some more
15. swear a bit more (throw a hammer at the cat if you want :) )
16. do not give up, you will win :armsup:
17. remove both axles.
18. drain the diff oil
19. remove the 8 bolts around the diff centre.
20. remove the centre.
21. have beer.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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Post by Red_Zook »

droopypete wrote:
13. swear a bit
14. yank on it some more
15. swear a bit more (throw a hammer at the cat if you want :) )

Peter.



LMFAO

dont for get about breaking the sill of the center to the housing...
hit it with a hammer a few times... swear a bit more.. . try not to hit youself with the rickoshaying hammer

Phil
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Location: Brisbane

removing rear diff

Post by vanbox »

well i had a go at it this afternoon to no such luck. but it wasnt til i read ur step by step guide more thoroughly that i realised u mentioned using the wheel as a slide hammer, which i did not do. i tried everything to get them out, except sliding the wheel. i will try tomorrow. any other pointers? what did you say about breaking the seal around the housing?
MUD BEERS and MAYHEM

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Post by droopypete »

If the seal is stuburn, put your trolly jack out under the end of the diff centre close to the flange (but not on the flange), apply a bit of pressure and it will break the bond.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
Banned
Posts: 2041
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:41 pm

Post by Red_Zook »

droopypete wrote:If the seal is stuburn, put your trolly jack out under the end of the diff centre close to the flange (but not on the flange), apply a bit of pressure and it will break the bond.
Peter.



now that is an ideah....
you are an ideahs man pete :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup:
P.S. I HATE DIFFS.

Phil
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Post by -Mandy- »

I was thinking you would drain the diff oil first to avoid the oil coming out when you remove the axles :idea:
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Post by markil »

-Mandy- wrote:I was thinking you would drain the diff oil first to avoid the oil coming out when you remove the axles :idea:


Same, i don't like cleaning up oil either...

Mark.
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Post by nicbeer »

How far do you need to remove axles to take the centre out.

cheers
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Post by jabtronic »

..and is there anything specific that needs to be done whilst putting the axles back in? Or is it a simple reverse-procedure job?
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removing rear diff

Post by vanbox »

well i did it. using the wheel as a slide hammer worked a treat. so the zuk is now sporting a trusty CIG locker. Yes i did drain the oil before removing the axles, as old diff oil has a nasty smell. the axles dont have to come out that far, 100mm will do, i pulled mine out further than that, but left them in the housing. as for putting the axles back in, it is a pretty much simple reverse procedure, although you have to add in there the cleaning of the gasket area and a new gasket. the only other thing is a little love tap from the hammer to gethe bearings back in the housing.
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