Outer Limits 4x4 Board

has anyone ever seen free wheeling hubs on a range rover? the problem being land rover series 3 fwh's are 6 bolt and the rangies are 5 bolt,does anyone make them?

109
Not that I have ever heard of .
Rangies are constant 4wd , with a centre diff, if you disconect the drive from even 1 wheel you wont have any drive unless you lock the centre diff
and that would defeat the puropse of FWHubs providing their minimal fuel economy as all the drive train would be still turning
If you want to use them for quick fix for a busted diff or axle to disengage drive so you can limp home in 2wd ,just get 2 busted Rangie axles and cutoff the drive members , keep them with you , fit them .remove the tailshaft , lock the centre diff and now you have a 2wd Rangie

Brian

There is an accessory supplier that advertises in the 4wd mags. From South Australia I think. They advertise a Part time conversion for discoveries including freewheeling hubs. Dont know why you would want to though. Cant think of the buisness name, Goannawhere, 4wd Systems or something from memory.

why bother?

If you have free wheelers in the front, would that help to eliminate driveline vibrations in lifted Landies? Given that most vibrations occur in the front shaft. Would the free wheelers stop the front shaft from turning?

Micka

Micka wrote:If you have free wheelers in the front, would that help to eliminate driveline vibrations in lifted Landies? Given that most vibrations occur in the front shaft. Would the free wheelers stop the front shaft from turning?

No.

It would be better to fit a double Cardan joint UJ

Ron

my truck runs a LT95 and 86 range rover axles with around three inches of lift so i've got a small vibration in the front end,when i take the driveshaft off it disappears.i've tried the following:stage 1 cardan shaft,new range rover front shaft,then turned the yokes out of line to 45deg and rebalanced.i measured the flange angles and was told i'd need a CV at the transfer end to fix it.

THE 109 wrote:my truck runs a LT95 and 86 range rover axles with around three inches of lift so i've got a small vibration in the front end,when i take the driveshaft off it disappears.i've tried the following:stage 1 cardan shaft,new range rover front shaft,then turned the yokes out of line to 45deg and rebalanced.i measured the flange angles and was told i'd need a CV at the transfer end to fix it.

You tried a stage 1 cardan shaft - doesnt that have a double cardan joint (cv) at the transfer end?

If you still had a vibration, your pinion angle may need to be adjusted.

With a double cardan joint (which should be at the t/case end), you have to align the diff pinion angle with the drive shaft - ie no change of angle in the u-joint.

109, the fwh solution does help with pinion angle vibes.
bill has told me about this. i have a 101 front end and to set the pinion angle up properly i will have to cut and weld the housing or run fwh on the road.
that mob in SA has part time kits with fwh and whatever else is needed for 2wd.
i don't know what stub the fwh are geared for???
maybe give them a call and find out.
david

bush65 The stage 1 cardan shaft uses a double uni joint with a centring ball and socket in the guts of it at the transfer case end,not a CV.standard
stage 1's have the front diff about level so there's a lot more angle than mine,which is about 7deg off being inline (pinion to shaft).the big angle is at the transfer end.
Modman I found out that AVM do fwh's for defenders so i'll price up some of those,if they're reasonable i'd consider running them on all corners with breakages in mind.

THE 109 wrote:bush65 The stage 1 cardan shaft uses a double uni joint with a centring ball and socket in the guts of it at the transfer case end,not a CV.standard

A double uni with centring ball, is also called a constant velocity joint.

I don't like calling them cv joints, but I added the reference only because you said you "was told i'd need a CV at the transfer end to fix it"

The point I was making was that you had already tried that by using the stage 1 shaft.

That should have fixed the problem, unless your pinion angle was not aligned with the driveshaft. Which was what the rest of my post was about.

THE 109 wrote:stage 1's have the front diff about level so there's a lot more angle than mine,which is about 7deg off being inline (pinion to shaft).the big angle is at the transfer end.

That may be, but it does not make it right.

If your pinion angle is 7 deg out, that is most likely your problem.

Converting to part time 4 wheel drive and using free wheeling hubs will get rid of the driveshaft vibration, but it does not correct the cause of the problem.

bush65 thanks for clearing up those points,i'm going to talk to a driveshaft specialist this week about my problem.

in regards to the part time conversion the idea behind it is to limit backlash and to also limit wear i am thinking about buying the kit for my half disco half troll project also. a friend of mine did the conversion on his 90 mod rangie and was super happy with the result mainly because of the fact that he can now throw donuts

in regards to the part time conversion the idea behind it is to limit backlash and to also limit wear i am thinking about buying the kit for my half disco half troll project also. a friend of mine did the conversion on his 90 mod rangie and was super happy with the result mainly because of the fact that he can now throw donuts the website for the mob is 4wdsystems.com.au

What do you guys think about 4 freewheeling hubs to help a guy flat tow his D90 behind his motorhome? He has burnt up the transmission twice now flat towing in the past couple years. Usually he tows the automatic transmission in Nuetral and transfer case in nuetral. I have a couple customers that tow like this with automatics. I personally advise against it. But nevertheless they continue to do this. One in particular has done this with a RRC for 4-5 years.
The guy with the burnt up transmission may have left the transfer case engaged but is hard pressed to admit to it.

Thoughts?

fwh's for flat towing makes sense to me,got quoted by ARB $287 a pair for AVM free wheeling hubs to suit defender.So at $574 it would have to be cheaper than a new transmission,I was thinking about running them on all corners with breakages in mind.Break the front end,disengage the front hubs and remove the tailshaft.vice versa for the rear,to get you back to camp/limp home.