It's not a complex job building a three link rear, you may find the fuel tank will limit the area you have to build your A frame. I had to put a custom tank in the rear of mine since the stock one was in the way of where i wanted my A frame. Personally I wouldn't use a rangie A frame as myself and others with rangie's have had problems with them, sure plenty of people run them without problems but that's just my opinion.
Building the swivel joint is easy as, just get a 1 inch, high tensile bolt with a length of say 150mm.
Get a piece of tube or pipe, heavy walled [4mm+] with an ID of say 45mm and trim to a length of 100mm.
You then want to get a piece of nylon or other heavy duty plastic [basically bodylift material] machined up so that it has an OD the same as the ID of your piece of pipe, and a 1" hole down the center for your bolt.
Always a good idea to drill and tap a grease nipple in the whole lot while you're there.
This is your 360 degree swivel.... To the head of your bolt you now want to weld another piece of tube, again heavy walled, this one needs to be about 50mm wide, inside this one you want another piece of plastic etc, same as before with a bolt hole 3/4 inch or whatever you feel comfortable with. This is going to be your up and down pivot point. You them make a U shaped bracket to go around this last piece of tube, with a bolt passing through.... this U shaped bracket is what you weld ontop of your diff housing, axle truss, etc with relevant bracing.
So now you have something that looks like a big T, with your smaller bolt going left to right, and your big bolt going straight out in front, through it's piece of tube.
Imagine it sitting on the top of your diff, with the U welded down on the top, the smaller bolt going left to right, and the 1" bolt pointing toward your T-case, now... the two arms of your A frame come down from your chassis mounts and are welded onto the piece of tube that is around your 1 inch bolt. Obviously it isn't a good idea to weld there with the plastic inside, so remove it first, same with the other piece.
Now you have a rigid, yet very flexable joint that is strong and cheap. For your chassis mounts you can use the same setup, tube, with poly bush and a bolt through the middle. Remember to lubricate all moving parts.
Your lower arms might cost a bit more, as they need flexability at both ends, you can use cheap shity heim joints, from your bearing supplier, and tap your bar/tube/pipe to suit the thread, but using cheap shit might come back to bite you later. If you drive reasonably hard I would advise speaking to ABT/MnM or your favourite supplier about some decent heim joints, good insurance for when you're out on the track.
You can use standard patrol bushes inside your own tube mounts, i think they're about 35 bucks each, and flex well.
Other options are big balls bollocks joints, or snake racing/dobbins mogs joints.
Just make sure your arms are nice and long, your mounts don't hang down too far, and you'r lower and upper arms are nice and parralel, this will ensure you have a predictable and neutral setup.
I'm sorry that i can't post pics to better illustrate what i'm talking about, none on this computer unfortunatly, if you need it explained better PM me a phone number and I'll do my best to explain it over the phone.
Cheers, Jeremy
Cost - benifits problems
