Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I'm upgrading my headlights on the GQ/Safari so I can run 90/130W globes with crystal beam lights. I've read all the previous posts on this.

My question is regarding the H4 wiring loom upgrade, the ARB one seems a little steep and it's 12v..........I've found a dude on ebay who sells something similar and he'll supply it to me with 24v relays.

Pic below of what he is offering................question is...........is this the same as the ARB loom or is there anything missing from this one?

Your help will be much appreciated!

Thanks

Martin



H4 UPGRADE LOOM KIT
This kit is a DIY 10min max installation comes
complete with all the goodies
BOSCH RELAYS
6MM WIRE
ALL JOINTS SOLDERED
WEDGE FUSE HOLDERS inc fuses
CONDUTE
BAKERLITE CONNECTORS
The upgrade loom kit will allow you to
upgrade your globes to your prefered wattage
with out having to worry about burning out
switches or melting original wiring looms.

This loom is making a name as one of the
best on the market as alot of other styles
when looked at have quality shortfalls such
as plastic connectors to headlights which will
melt under heat of high wattage globes plus
most have 5mm or less wire to main fuse
holders from relays, then only give 1 wire to
battery positive this lowering power supply to
fuses before you even turn the lights on,
causing loss of voltage to globes.

how much is it worth? is the 6mm wire just from the battery to the relay or is he running it to the lights as well?

He wants $120 for it..........which seems pretty expensive to me. Although it's less than ARB's $130 .........and I'd have to spend extra on top of that to get the 24v relays.

I'm not sure exactly which wires are 6mm

Maybe I should just make my own

mabsydney wrote: Maybe I should just make my own

Yeah do that! Cost me under 50 bucks to make.

Make some more and flog them off on ebay for $110



After all that's what he's done - sell them $10 less than the competition.

For $10 I'd want to sue ARB's ass when my rig burnt down

I am gonna do this soon because stock GQ lights are pretty anemic. I will make up a new loom with 6mm2 cable and put in the 130/90W H4 globes. Two 40A relays should do. At the outside this should not cost more than $60 including the globes.

Jason

So I've decided to make my own up.

I don't see any need to use more than 3mm wire though............that is 10A

With 130W globes, current will be just over 5A as I have 24v electrics.

6mm cable seems like a waste of money.......rated at 50A...........

Gonna get the bits and pieces and do it next week.

mabsydney wrote:So I've decided to make my own up.

I don't see any need to use more than 3mm wire though............that is 10A

With 130W globes, current will be just over 5A as I have 24v electrics.

6mm cable seems like a waste of money.......rated at 50A...........

Gonna get the bits and pieces and do it next week.

If you have 24V electrics you can certainly get away with thinner wire than those of us with 12V. Just remember that resistance increases with the length of the wire so you will get more noticeable voltage losses with thinner, longer wire than with shorter, thicker wires. The issue with headlight performance isn't just the current rating of the wire but also the voltage losses over its length.

Jason

Thanks mate, that makes sense, I'll get something a bit thicker then, maybe 4mm ........will take a look in Dick Smiths this arvo

I've just done my lighting loom from scratch, hi, lo and driving in one.

The reason you use 6mm (4.59mm2) is to combat voltage drop. For every percent of total voltage lost, you lose approximately 4 times that in light output. ie 5% voltage drop you lose 17% of the globes potential light output. 5% doesn't sound like much for the volts but 83% total light output is not good!!!

I strongly recommend anyone who is considering this mod to read this link before the go buying their bits ...

http://users.mrbean.net.au/~rover/rewire.htm

Pay special attention to the current draw and voltage drop section.

This won't be so evident with 24v systems but still worth considering.

PS. I now run 90w/130w Bosch H4 globes with this loom and find myself giggling like a school girl everytime I look around at everyone elses anaemic little headlight efforts.

Thanks Kris,

Yeah I'm replacing my IPF loom with a home made one too..............there'a problem with it since I bought the truck, maybe a bad earth, but I can't find it.......so I figure...........replace and upgrade

Will check the link out.

If you do decide to go with 6mm cable, it's a bastard to work with but keep going, it's definately worth it. I used non insulated connectors through the whole loom and crimped, soldered and headshrunk everything as I went. Took me the whole day but I love this shit and a job worth doing is worth doing well.

I reckon my loom will at least out last my truck if not me.

RoldIT wrote:I used non insulated connectors through the whole loom and crimped, soldered and headshrunk everything as I went.

Talk about doing ya head in!

A) Piss off, spelling poo-lice!!!

B) This a tech section and as you have none, goto line A.

Does it make a difference if you run two relays - one for each high beam globe?

BOB_1 wrote:Does it make a difference if you run two relays - one for each high beam globe?

It's overkill imho; there definitely wouldn't be any visible difference in light output. I would just run one relay for low and one for high, both rated at 30 - 40 amps.

Jason

Yep, what ^^^ he said.

I run three 30amp Bosch relays, 1 for hi, both sides, 1 for low, both side and one for driving lights, all clipped together in housings.

I wonder how much difference a new loom will make in mine? As far as I know still got the factory loom but running IPF headlight glass/mirros with some funky 130/155W (apparent power) globes all from ARB. Made a hell of a difference. The spotties are on a separate relay each as they were pulling 7amps or so each - (2 ciebies or 2 lightforce) Think I used 4mm or 6mm wire for the spots.
Relays are 20amp ones - didn't have 30amps ones on me at the time so I used a few more to be safe.

Get a voltmeter, start you car and idle it for a bit. Turn you lights on. Check the voltage at the battery and then check the voltage at plugs at the back of the lights (while the car is running and with the lights turned on). Make sure you check both low and high beam voltages. Work out the percentage difference and then multiply that by 4. That is approximately the lost light output from the globes, as stated above. ie if you are losing 5% of your voltage, as measured at the battery then your lights are only woking to about 80% their potential.

If the wattages of your globes you quoted are correct, using the factory wiring, I'd be surprised if you lights are running 50% of their potential.

As much as I know that soldering provides a better connection with less impedance, I learnt a long time ago, from experts, not to solder crimp connections as they become too firm and don't allow for a little flex as the wire moves a bit while driving, causing them to crack at the end of the solder. Sure, someone will post back saying they have soldered connections that have lasted 20+years, but that is what several experienced auto elecs have told me. And they said the soldering gains are absolutely stuff all for that application. Are IPF's soldered? I've never looked.

As much as I know that soldering provides a better connection with less impedance, I learnt a long time ago, from experts, not to solder crimp connections as they become too firm and don't allow for a little flex as the wire moves a bit while driving, causing them to crack at the end of the solder. Sure, someone will post back saying they have soldered connections that have lasted 20+years, but that is what several experienced auto elecs have told me. And they said the soldering gains are absolutely stuff all for that application. Are IPF's soldered? I've never looked.

I've heard the same thing but when working with 6mm wire, very difficult to get a good crimp or terminals large enough so I had to solder. Either way, if something stops working, it's an easy diagnosis and fix. I guess time will tell ...

RoldIT wrote:I've heard the same thing but when working with 6mm wire, very difficult to get a good crimp or terminals large enough so I had to solder. Either way, if something stops working, it's an easy diagnosis and fix. I guess time will tell ...

I usually solder 6mm cable but I have to say I have never had any trouble working with it, even on occasions when I have been a bit lazy and only crimped it.

Jason

So I've actually to looking at what I need to go and buy to make the upgrade loom. The wiring diagram in my Gregories guide does not show any relays. Just the high and low beam wires straight from the headlight switch to the lights. Are you guys using these signals to switch the relays?

mabsydney wrote:So I've actually to looking at what I need to go and buy to make the upgrade loom. The wiring diagram in my Gregories guide does not show any relays. Just the high and low beam wires straight from the headlight switch to the lights. Are you guys using these signals to switch the relays?

Yep, just remember that the headlights are negative switching

MKPatrolGuy wrote:Yep, just remember that the headlights are negative switching

Umm what does that mean? the chassis is negative earth right? So how can switching be negative? Sorry I is a bit simple

It means that instead of switching the posative line off and on to operate the lights, the posative is always available, and the switch makes/breaks the ground connection.

posative switched:
+ ____ \____[light]__________ -

negative switched:
+__________[light]______\___ -

gotcha, thanks

This link is fantastic:

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=F ... pic&t=5356

very clear diagram and explains why you should you use 4 relays NOT 2. Also negative switching only applies to activating the relays, the relay switched current can still be positive switched.