Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What a stuff up I made today whilst rebuilding a mates 2H in my garage.

I've inadvertently put/smacked the crankshaft timing gear on backwards. Being helical gears the teeth setup will be now half a tooth out so I can't leave it as is.
What is worse, is that I can't use my harmonic balancer kit to remove it again because the 6mm threaded holes in the gear aren't tapped all the way through, only halfway through. I can't get the threaded rods(from my kit) to pickup in the holes from the back. The 6mm rods go in halfway but won't start on the thread. I would say trying to put a tap from the back wouldn't work because I reckon the metal in the timing gear is more tensile than the taps that I have, plus than crank's shaft is too long to use a tap properly.

Any suggestions?. Some trick I can't think off.

I was thinking of maybe silver soldering the rods in the holes hoping that they will hold against the strain of the puller or at worst putting even putting a couple of MIG tacks on the face the gear to secure the rods to the gear. I'd guess I'd put some protective tape on the gear teeth and crankshaft shaft to minimise damage to them. Once cool I'll quickly heat the gear with my oxy to pull it off. It came off last time easily, but only once I got a bit of heat into it. It was a tight fit going on, I used no heat though.

Anyone had a similar experience? Any help/suggestions would be much appreciated. I can't believe I did this, it's my third 2H rebuild.

Cheers.

no advice sorry

but wanna reebuild my 2H ?

Shadow wrote:no advice sorry

but wanna reebuild my 2H ?

me to????

OK so i'm not exactly sure of what you're talkin about. but are the gear pullers that have hooks that hook over the edge of the gear suitable?
I think Super Crap sell some for $20-30

Good luck.

Matt

The gear pullers might work. You might find that the lip on the sprocket is strong enough.

If you are buying a supercheap puller I would go the three leg one, the two leg ones bend pretty easily being cheap gear.

Do you know how much a replacement crank sprocket costs? Your mate might be happy to pay it if you are saving him thousands on the whole rebuild.

I tried silver soldering some 8mm rod to the gear but the bond was not quite strong enough so I ended up MIG welding 2 8mm threaded rods to the gear. I used these and a bearing puller kit to gear the gear off successfully. I had found another timing gear around the traps for nothing, so I could sacrifise the other. Was easy in the end and a few more hours later the engine was back in and running sweet.

MacroP how far do you go with the rebuild?

ive got a 2H that mkight be in need of a rebuild shortly and just wondering what generally needs to be done for a rebild. I have heard that the heads are often cactus, is this true?

Shadow wrote:MacroP how far do you go with the rebuild?

ive got a 2H that mkight be in need of a rebuild shortly and just wondering what generally needs to be done for a rebild. I have heard that the heads are often cactus, is this true?

Because the cooling system is a disaster in these engine if not looked after properly, than the head normally cracks before the engine is due to rebuild. A new or reco head would be somewhere in the $800-$1200 range

You can easily check the head when it's off by looking for cracks in the combustion chamber, normally bewteen the inlet and exhaust ports.
But don't get alarmed. If the engine is running fine(but just tired) then you should be OK. Disregard the little cracks that will be in the pre-com chambers.

Thing to do for a rebuild if you're looking at doing it yourself and you have the means. Even though I'm sparky by trade, I have access to most of the tools and plus about 40 diesel mechanics to help me. I work at a mine you see which is very handy.

Overhaul the head for sure. Grind the valves and re-cut the seats.
Get the head decked and bead blasted. Put in new stem seals.

Have the block bored. Sometimes the wear maybe too far so a liner might need to be put in. Older 2H's(form HJ60's) have factory liners but I've never owned one. If the block needs to be decked then the new pistons will need to be decked aswell. Boring is not expensive.

Check the crackshaft and have it ground and/or polished if need be. This is not expensive either. Once you know this the correct bearings can be ordered.

Put new camshaft bearings in the block if needed.

Most of the cost of rebuilding these engine is the labour more so than anything. The parts are quite cheap very easily available.

Get the injectors tested and overhauled if needed . Can be cheap to do yourself if you have the means but expensive if you don't.

Overall you can save a at least couple of thoasand if you do it yourself but you just needs the means. One local mob I've used before to have a crank ground wanted $4.3K for an exchange long 2H plus fitting. That's a lot of cash.

If you choose to do the engine up and not get an exchange unit you should clean the engine water galleries and everything else out a few days before the job. I use a product called Restore which I replace the coolant with. You mix it with normal tap water. It's diluted basically phosphoric acid. The engine is then run for at least few hours with this as the coolant. The acid will strip the rust and crap from the block and radiator. Works a treat.

MacroP wrote: If you choose to do the engine up and not get an exchange unit you should clean the engine water galleries and everything else out a few days before the job. I use a product called Restore which I replace the coolant with. You mix it with normal tap water. It's diluted basically phosphoric acid. The engine is then run for at least few hours with this as the coolant. The acid will strip the rust and crap from the block and radiator. Works a treat.

Is this something you can do as a preventative measure on a healthy engine? Would you recommend doing this...once I've had the top radiator tank seam re-soldered?

Diesel 60 wrote: Is this something you can do as a preventative measure on a healthy engine? Would you recommend doing this...once I've had the top radiator tank seam re-soldered?

I would only do it if your engine bits are corroded already. It certainly works though. After, just put in the proper amount of coolant(Toyota longlife) and DISTILLED water (50:50) and the block should be great for years. I've been doing it ages. Certainly no tap water and never mix different coolants.