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HELP AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 9:28 am
by mudmav
hey guys prob remember i posted about my maverick swb vibrating all the way through second gear
mods were as follows

3 inch springs shocks
+16mm heavy duty trailing arms
gearbox packer kit
replaced unis with new ones


well it stopped vibrating (yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
until yesterday when that damb vibration came back with avengance, Now i am vibrating at end of second gear and all the way throug 3rd and 4th only while on the gas as soon as i take my foot off the pedal it stops vibrating dont want to go db cardon tail shaft what now?

I dont understand why it stopped 100% for about 2-3weeks and then came back worse than ever ive looked under the car and cant see anyhting real obviouse

HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!

im about ready to sell this thing even though i love it and get a lwb
its set up awesome for 4bing just need to get this vibro fixed

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 9:39 am
by sneaky_pete
Could it be engine/gearbox mounts?

Alot of my vibration went away when i replaced them. Mine was similar to yours as it would only vibrate while on power.

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 10:06 am
by RoldIT
I'd also go back and double check all your unis, vibs under power are commonly a uni issue. Make sure one hasn't lost a circlip or similar.

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 11:17 am
by mudmav
could i do any real damage driving it around while at is vibrating

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 4:35 pm
by turps
mudmav wrote:could i do any real damage driving it around while at is vibrating
If you think it is just the rear shaft undo the 8 bolts take it out and just drive around in front wheel drive.

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:31 pm
by mudmav
thanks for your help guys dropped the rear shaft out on saturday and what do you no i had some weird pieces of metal hanging out of my unis. Took it for a spin with no rear shaft and what do you no 0 vibrations. Thanks for all your help!!!!

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:00 pm
by oozuk
re grease the rear tailshaft and slip joint (and don't be shy about it)
that will reduce it

but the only way you will get rid of the problem is with upper adjustable rear trailing arms and with a double cardon rear shaft

otherwise put up with the problem

i see this problem in our workshop quite regulary and this is the only way to correct the problem

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:51 pm
by Doggy
Its part of owning a shorty....its character :D

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:31 am
by mudmav
hey guys i am going to get a high pinion rear diff to eliviate some of the shaft angle dont want to get a double cardon as i will have to roll my diff that much that i will need to chope of the spring and shock mounts and re weld them

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:24 pm
by DieselBoy
What are you goiong to get the high pinion diff out of???

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:46 pm
by DieselBoy
20m packers under the Tcase C/M, higher engine mounts and adjustable top arms and you will be right.
Sorted out my Vibe's after 100mm lift on shorty.

...

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:36 pm
by JemmyBubbles
I may get flamed for this but High Pinion's will break. Mark Cheeseman explained to me why ages ago I can't find the thread.. reverse rotation ?? Oil getting splashed the wrong way ??. You realise you are giving up your LSD, therefore you may as well put in an air locker at the same time...

If your shaft is in good nick (not buggered) and both of the outputs are exactly parallel and you only have 3" lift there is no way the car should vibrate. The shaft can handle some angle if it is in good nick...

Do what diesel boy said slightly lower the transfer case's uni angle (Engine mounts stay away xmember packers) and slightly bring the pinion angle up to match the transfer output. The angle will be less excessive... If that is what is making the car vibrate..

We are in the process of doing this to my dads car he bought the thing with the cardinal joint and 5" lift, but the housing hadn't been rotated. We got a stock shaft and are going to run that with slightly longer lowers and sell the cardinal shaft for $$$..

Rather than getting a high pinion get adjustable lowers and uppers with new bushes...

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:42 pm
by DieselBoy
What he said!!!!

The UJ's will handle the angle's, but the angles have to be within 3 degree's of each other to not vibrate, ie parallel.

Read here, it certainly helped me get my head around what i was supposed be trying to acheive in order to solve the Vibration Problem:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:42 pm
by mudmav
GUYS I TRIED THE CHEEZY WAY AND IT DID NOT WORK, I HAVE 16MM LONGER TRAILING ARMS AND ENGINE LIFT AND GEAR BOX PACKERS AND I AM STILL CHEWING UNI JOINTS, SO IM GOING TO GO THE WAY I NO WORKS SANDY BOWMAN RUNS A HIGH PINION DIFF AS DO A FEW OF MY MATES AND THEY DRIVE LIKE MANIACS AND THEY ARE YET TO BUST A HIGH PINION. THE 3 DEGREE THEORY WORLS GREAT ON STREET AND DRAG CARS WERE THERE IS ONLY A COUPLE OF INCHES OF FLEX BUT NOT ON SOME 4WDS WHEN THEY FLEX AS MUCH AS THEY DO WHEN YOU POWER ON THE PINION CAN CHANGE ANGLE BY UP TO 5-10 DEGREES.

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:44 pm
by mudmav
TO ANSWER YOUR OTHER QUESTIONS YOU RUN A GQ FRONT DIFF IN THE REAR AND I HAVE A FACTORY REAR LOCKER, THAT CAN BE FITTED TO THE NEW DIFF

....

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 6:55 pm
by JemmyBubbles
If you go ahead with it show us pictures of how you fit the factory locker... I am interested... Surely you don't just turn it upside down ??

Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 7:00 pm
by GQTrav
I have a feeling this is the setup that Daren (Krimnl) was running last wekend at the alpine challenge and he broke it. Just ask sandy about it because he was his team mate.