Outer Limits 4x4 Board

little bit of solihul the Yorkshire way

NICE

maverick, nice flex shot mate!!

i have a 90 myself here in aus, i am very curious on your set up, please don't say you have a scorpion extreme kit!

what have you done mod wise to your truck....especially set up in front end?

ta for the coments and no I do believe best place for a scorpion is in a mongoose I do use equips rear air shox though so I can adjust the presure the rear arms are mounted with jony joints at the chassis the front has a 3 link and all on jony joints except the original chassis mounts which are rubber, 15 in shox on the front and air bags all round on top of c303 axles
hes well over 6ft

mav got any more photos of your sus set up?

close ups of links, shocks/mounts, etc? looking for some poss cheat notes for mine, maybe? jony joints? they are heim joints?

x2 old mate

We NEED more detailed pics.

That is some awesome travel you have yourself there.

Micka

jony joints are ball joint with a nylon bush will get you some pics but you must do your own homework boys

front set up

Thanks for the pics

What are the portals off?

Micka

Volvo portals of a C303


Front suspension is a safari guard 3 link i beleive

Thank you Grimace...


You truly are a wealth of knowledge.

not realy that knowledgable cause the front is def not a safariguard 3 link

Its a similar principle though one low link (in centre) and two upper links.

Travel isnt to bad by the looks of it.

after i get sick of the toyo diffs ill consider the volvo C303s.

maverick101 - Have you found any weaknesses with the volvo setup? I assume you generally drive mud?
PM me if you like but I wanna ask how much the volvos cost you. And i beleive the volvos are available in two reduction types?? wat type do you have, 5.99 or 7.14 ? ? ?

I'll for give you seeing you corrected your self about s/g mine had alot of time to make it work with out sticking huge bump stops in to stop it catching the axles £2000 and are 5:99 and bloody slow for a road motor no weekness as of yet and seeing the spare parts are a bloody fortune to buy will treat them with 1 kid glove tip if yours is rhd then get the rhd axles from malasia or prepair to start moding

maverick101 wrote:I'll for give you seeing you corrected your self about s/g mine had alot of time to make it work with out sticking huge bump stops in to stop it catching the axles £2000 and are 5:99 and bloody slow for a road motor no weekness as of yet and seeing the spare parts are a bloody fortune to buy will treat them with 1 kid glove tip if yours is rhd then get the rhd axles from malasia or prepair to start moding

So even for you the spares are hard to obtain and pricey?
Thats the main thing that turned me off the volvo portals. The 5.99 is wat i was trying to obtain.

And yeah, I apoligise for the SG comment

Seperate question regarding your front three link.

Was there any other reason, besides clearance that you decided to make a single lower and two uppers (similar to the SG design)
As I am currently pondering the single upper mount in my three link setup and looks like ill be chopping the exhaust manifold to accomodate the link.

Have you noticed any significate reduction (or increase) in torque twist with the setup you have?

Cheers
Anthony

the main reason I have a 3link on the front is to keep the axle vert with adjustable ride height it keeps the steering true I'v run this system sveral years now and find it suits the bottom of the engine bay better for the deisel as for axle rap the figure to sort out anti squat and over rap is the time consuming part and with the triangution and spread of the arms it's just right with no rap and just 10%squat

AnthonyP wrote:Seperate question regarding your front three link.

Was there any other reason, besides clearance that you decided to make a single lower and two uppers (similar to the SG design)
As I am currently pondering the single upper mount in my three link setup and looks like ill be chopping the exhaust manifold to accomodate the link.

Have you noticed any significate reduction (or increase) in torque twist with the setup you have?

Cheers
Anthony

Do it that way.
Search for Bill (daddylonglegs) comments on when he did volvos to Tims county. Better for strength as two links in compression/1 link in tension AFAIK

Dave.

DaveS3 wrote:

AnthonyP wrote:Seperate question regarding your front three link.

Was there any other reason, besides clearance that you decided to make a single lower and two uppers (similar to the SG design)
As I am currently pondering the single upper mount in my three link setup and looks like ill be chopping the exhaust manifold to accomodate the link.

Have you noticed any significate reduction (or increase) in torque twist with the setup you have?

Cheers
Anthony

Do it that way.
Search for Bill (daddylonglegs) comments on when he did volvos to Tims county. Better for strength as two links in compression/1 link in tension AFAIK

Dave.

That is correct, but i was also worried about when braking (if need be or sudden stopping) the forces are opposite.
With portal strength is a higher priority as the wrap forces on the diff are significantly increased.

I have also hit the centre crossmenebver afew times, so lowering this slightly to accomodate a link is abit of a turn off.

If i do have probs with strength in the single upper design Ill prob fab in a second link (aka five link) similar to wat the standard jeep wrangler has. (slightly triangulated). but hopefully wont be required (fingers crossed).

cheers
Anthony

P.S. main prob with the current disign I am gonna go with, is the seperation between the links at the chassis end? Its only gonna be about 4" where as ill have around 9-10" at the diff.
Upper arm will be fairly flat and lower arms will be angled up to chassis.
I beleive this will give me minimal anti squat, or abit of sqaut??? could be wrong though

With front, you normally don't consider anti-squat during acceleration. Instead you would be more concerned with ant-dive during braking.

Hard braking, or pushing up against an obstacle, produces the front link loads of most concern. This produces high compressive loads in the lower link (or links) and tension in the upper links (or link).

That is why I advice using 2 lower links and a single upper link for a front 3 link Plus panhard set-up.

Acceleration produces compression in the front upper links and tension in the lower links, but these are much lower than in rear links.

Because of the compression in the single upper link, you can use it to counteract the torque reaction during acceleration. If the chassis mount is higher than the axle mount - offset the link to right of centre. If chassis mount is lower - offset the link to left of centre.

Offsetting the upper like this allows it to clear the engine sump.

AnthonyP wrote:...
P.S. main prob with the current disign I am gonna go with, is the seperation between the links at the chassis end? Its only gonna be about 4" where as ill have around 9-10" at the diff.
Upper arm will be fairly flat and lower arms will be angled up to chassis...

The vertical separation at the chassis mount can be zero if that is your only concern.

For the front the vertical separation at the axle can safely be less tha 9".

The vertical separation at the chassis should be less than at the axle if you want any anti-dive.

One of the problems with 5 link fronts is that the links need to be parallel to reduce binding, but then there is no anti-dive.

I used this as thumb of law when fabing every thing and if you over enginer every thing it can't be a bad thinghttp://www.bryanf.com/pc/calc/suspension/

Bush65 wrote:The vertical separation at the chassis mount can be zero if that is your only concern.

For the front the vertical separation at the axle can safely be less tha 9".

The vertical separation at the chassis should be less than at the axle if you want any anti-dive.

One of the problems with 5 link fronts is that the links need to be parallel to reduce binding, but then there is no anti-dive.

If i can get it down to 8" ill be able to clear the entire bottom of the diff housing and have no mounts to get caught up on .

Also looks like my setup will give me abit of anti-dive as you mentioned (is this right or am i looking at it wrong). hopefully its not to much anti-squat during acceleration, but not to worry if it is cause during climbing I can conteract its puching simply by winching down on the diff

maverick101 - interesting link, thanks, I will be doin lots of reading of that over the 8 hours of my work schedule today
EDIT: dang its out of stock

Ha

And i have the world hanging crap on me for my love of the Sweedish Taxi's.........................

are the front arms pinned or hinged to the frame? Looks good!

the front arms to the chassis are stock d90 bush

Maverick101

Please tell more us about your airsprings...
Make, model, part number - anything.

Thanks,
Hardy