Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I'm sure this has been covered before here, but please indulge me. Since I'm still trying to get all the pieces to put the original motor back in my 85 410 hardtop (and I'm getting tired of seeing it sit after three years), I'm looking into taking one of my spare 1.3 motors and trans and installing it temporarily. I'm guessing this is mostly a bolt-in deal, but I also know that the 1.3 is taller than the 1.0, hence the taller hood on the Sammi. Is there a way to fit the 1.3 without a body lift or a hood swap (since I know the latch location is different between the two hoods)? Besides the complete Sammi engine and trans, what else do I need to do this? I'm guessing i need the intermediate shaft from the Sammi, but what other little parts need swapped? Clutch cable? Throttle cable? Any info will be much appreciated!
BTW, I'm STILL looking for some emblems for this truck.........
Thanks!

IJ

The engine and gearbox mounts are different. so its not a bolt in job. If you plan to use the 1 litre later, its prolly not worth bolting in the 1.3 due to the mods required. Just fix the 1 litre, or convert to 1.3.

JMO

Pete

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=37821

my 1.3 into 1.0 conversion is bolt in, so can be put back to 1.0 if need be.
I don't understand the desire for putting it back, tho.

christover

a 1l is something that 'doesn't exist' in the states... Kudos factor.

there's some guy who got his from his parents who bought in puerto rico then decided to import it to the states.


By the way a good idea is to get hold of the Sj410 manual... they come up on the Australian Ebay time to time

My reason for wanting to be able to put the truck back to stock is that as mentioned, these things are fairly rare here in the states. Especially since this one is an 85 and has factory A/C and is rust-free (in the rust-belt, that's a real rarity for anything that old!). I don't want to make any changes that can't be easily reversed. As I said before, I'n tired of seeing the truck just sitting, and with gas prices here going apesh*t lately, it makes sense to be driving the vehicle that will give me the best milage. Also, I'm jonsein' to be driving a Zuk again! I had to sell my much-modded Sammi a year ago, and I really miss it.....
Thanks for the link, christover! That helps tremendously. Did you have to cut the shifter hole because the engine was moved due to using the 410 jackshaft? IOW, if I used the Sammi jackshaft, would I also have to cut the hole? You also mention massaging the tunnel for clearance for the 5-speed. Just how much, and where? Did you use the 1.3 clutch and throttle cables? I have a wrecked Sammi I can scavenge parts from. (And no, it's not fixable without a whole new tub.)
And yes, I do have the 410 FSM already. It came with the truck. Also have the Sammi FSM.

IJ

ive got both bonnets sitting in my shed, and on sierras in aus they both fit on, pin holes the same.

notajp wrote: Did you have to cut the shifter hole because the engine was moved due to using the 410 jackshaft? IOW, if I used the Sammi jackshaft, would I also have to cut the hole? You also mention massaging the tunnel for clearance for the 5-speed. Just how much, and where? Did you use the 1.3 clutch and throttle cables?

I had to cut out the shifter hole mainly because of body lift, and the engine position, but the 1.3 shifters are in a different place slightly.
If no bl, you may be ok, best to measure up with a ruler, if you got both boxes to measure. The tunnel didn't touch the box, I just wanted more space to allow for torque movement. It was very close on my passenger (left) side, I guessing your drivers side. Without BL it may have touched. I think 1.3 box is a little taller?
I used 1.3 throttle cable as they are different, though I used a modded 1.0 litre till I got the 1.3. (had to shave back the outer). clutch cables appeared to be the same, but I used the 1.3 just in case, and kept the 1.0 for a spare.
The combination of 1.3 motor/box with the 1.0 litre t-case and diffs is brilliant, and is capable of running 30's easily.
the t-case is 12% lower and diffs are 4:1's
I've since fitted 4:9's from an LJ50 and 32's.
christover

Christover, thanks for all the good info! I've been surveying the situation, and I think I'm gonna give it a try. I noticed in your write-up that you mention going from points on the stock motor to electronic on the 1.3, but my 1.0 had electronic stock. The 1.0 disty has two wires like the 1.3, but of course the connectiors are different. The 1.3 has the big round plug, and the 1.0 has a spade connector on one wire, and a split-ring on the other. I need to compare the FSM's for the Sammi and the 410 and see if they are the same electrically. If so, I should be able to make an adapter harness or just change the connectors on the 1.3 disty. Haven't had a chance to compare alternator systems yet, but I'm sure I should be able to figure that out too. I figure if the tunnel is a bit too tight for comfort , I can take my hydraulic porta-power and bump it out just enough to give room. but not be noticable.
My concern with changing the hoods comes from swapping the 410 grill into a couple of Sammi's I owned. I found that the hook "loop" on the Sammi hood wouldn't catch the latch in it's stock location in the 410 grill. In order to make it work, I had to notch out the front of the latch opening in the grill, then space the latch assembly forward about a half inch.