Outer Limits 4x4 Board

My ball joint bush on my A Frame has a chunk out of it on the drivers side. Will it last a thrashing at Landcruiser Park on the weekend or is it terminal and I have to replace it before I go?
Is it a difficult job??

Thanks
Shane

i have never replaced the guts of a joint with a new one but i have replaced the whole joint including the housing that bolts on the a frame bracket. this was for 2 reasons -

1 because i have heaps laying around from low km vehicles i ripped
apart

2 it looks easier and cheaper than pulling the joint apart.

the only hard thing about this was getting the tapered pin out of the diff housing- 2 hammers one on the side of the diff and one knocking the pin out with a bit of wd40.

go to a wrecker and get one off a low km disco - less than 50000 kms should be still a good one they shouldnt be much $.

Andrew.

Is this rubber around the ball joint just a dust cover or does it have a significant purpose.
Shane

I have a maxi drive rear ball joint, my rubber boot was ripped and mal had a replacment boot in stock for me, no problems.

I have a maxi drive rear ball joint, my rubber boot was ripped and mal had a replacment boot in stock for me, no problems.

hook wrote:I have a maxi drive rear ball joint, my rubber boot was ripped and mal had a replacment boot in stock for me, no problems.

To keep the dust out

there only bout $100 for a new one at rover care so i wouldnt bother wid a second hand one

$75 for a standard replacement or $165 for an adjustable maxi drive one - never replace it again unless you break it . By the way this is the single most pia part to replace on a l/rover.

It sounds like I will be able to wheel on the weekend before I replace it. Any hints on replacing it.
Thanks for the help guys.
Shane

take the cast housing out with the ball joint, this is wat the two arms come down and attach to(2 large bolts horizontally). rather than trying to get the ball joint out frm the cast piece, up side down under the car. the ball joint is tapered aswell as splined which makes it is easier on a bench out of the car as you need to line up the two locating bolts. once started and seated just use the bolts to seat the tapered spline in evenly.

Rangie ute on 38'' wrote:the ball joint is tapered aswell as splined which makes it is easier on a bench out of the car as you need to line up the two locating bolts. once started and seated just use the bolts to seat the tapered spline in evenly.

GODD LUCK!!!

I tried this on mine a while ago and didn't work!!! Had to take to work shop and get it pressed in!!

mickrangie wrote:

Rangie ute on 38'' wrote:the ball joint is tapered aswell as splined which makes it is easier on a bench out of the car as you need to line up the two locating bolts. once started and seated just use the bolts to seat the tapered spline in evenly.

GODD LUCK!!!

I tried this on mine a while ago and didn't work!!! Had to take to work shop and get it pressed in!!

i got mine in this way, eventually. It was abit of a pain in the arse.

if anyone wants a MaxiDrive ball joint thats been fairly well used let me know as i wont be needing it.

AnthonyP wrote:

mickrangie wrote:

Rangie ute on 38'' wrote:the ball joint is tapered aswell as splined which makes it is easier on a bench out of the car as you need to line up the two locating bolts. once started and seated just use the bolts to seat the tapered spline in evenly.

GODD LUCK!!!

I tried this on mine a while ago and didn't work!!! Had to take to work shop and get it pressed in!!

i got mine in this way, eventually. It was abit of a pain in the arse.

if anyone wants a MaxiDrive ball joint thats been fairly well used let me know as i wont be needing it.

yr ring must be mega loose

it shouldnt need to be pressed in with a hydrolic press, just make sure the splines are clean and free of the shit that builds up in it, it has to be perfectly aligned other wise it wont go, plenty of lube

Rangie ute on 38'' wrote:it shouldnt need to be pressed in with a hydrolic press, just make sure the splines are clean and free of the shit that builds up in it, it has to be perfectly aligned other wise it wont go, plenty of lube

might work for AnthonyP's ass but not for my ball joint

If it fits without pressing then it must be worn, should be a press fit, all that force on it and only 2 pissy bolts!

it will press in with the bolts clamping down evenly on both sides., and how do you no wat anthony ass is like ,

Rangie ute on 38'' wrote:it will press in with the bolts clamping down evenly on both sides., and how do you no wat anthony ass is like ,

who doesnt.
you interested

I found another good way to unseat the aframe ball joint from the diff housing was to losen the nut and rock the car back and forth.
But yes getting it in and out of the arm mount and spline is a true PITA.

OK, my view/opinions.

Apparently you can get exchange ball joints already pressed into the mount.
Go for this option.

My 79 RR had major problems with the ball joint.
Used a 10 ton press to get it out, but it wouldn't budge.
Used a bit of heat, and the ball (only) exploded from the rest of it.
Luckily it didn't hit anything or anyone.
The flange & spline section was still in the housing.
Pressed again, and it came out.

Installing the new one on the same press took a bit of effort.
Eventually it went in (alignment is critical).
The bolts would never have pulled it in.

Ball joint only was $95. An exchange (already pressed in) was $120.
Well worth the $25 extra.

Well, I am pretty sure the ball joint is cactus. My diff is cactus also. They both need replacing now. Anyone got a spare ball joint A frame thingo or diff parts for an 89 model Rangie??

Shane