Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ive just finished replacing the head gasket on the 2h and i cant get it to fire up! at first i had no power to the glowies, fixed that and it still wont go......
my problem now is that when i try to prime the fuel system, fuel pours out of the primer thus not allowing me to bleed the fuel properly... if i replace the primer pump with a newie and bleed the fuel properly, do yas recon she will fire up.

Thanks

That happened to me too. Someone explained if fuel leaks out, air can leak in when the injection pump tries to draw fuel.

Dave

ok i've been through similar... fix the priming pump (mine sapped a heap of power before finally just not starting)...

also make sure your valves are adjusted (at least roughly)

then bleed the fuel... make sure you bleed all fuel filters, the injector pump then the injectors (do the injectors by cranking it over, and cracking teh nut on the injectors, repeat untill no bubbles or froth... proceed to the next injector and repeate),

if all that fails, search for a hole or point of air getting into the fuel system. i.e. cracked fuel hose, missing washer off the injectors etc...

bad_religion_au wrote:ok i've been through similar... fix the priming pump (mine sapped a heap of power before finally just not starting)...

also make sure your valves are adjusted (at least roughly)

then bleed the fuel... make sure you bleed all fuel filters, the injector pump then the injectors (do the injectors by cranking it over, and cracking teh nut on the injectors, repeat untill no bubbles or froth... proceed to the next injector and repeate),

if all that fails, search for a hole or point of air getting into the fuel system. i.e. cracked fuel hose, missing washer off the injectors etc...

some good advice here.. i didnt think to crack the injector nut to allow the air to escape.... did you say to crank the engine over to do it?
cos i flattened my battery this arvo trying to turn it over got it on a charger so its sit back and wait...........

toyotroop wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:ok i've been through similar... fix the priming pump (mine sapped a heap of power before finally just not starting)...

also make sure your valves are adjusted (at least roughly)

then bleed the fuel... make sure you bleed all fuel filters, the injector pump then the injectors (do the injectors by cranking it over, and cracking teh nut on the injectors, repeat untill no bubbles or froth... proceed to the next injector and repeate),

if all that fails, search for a hole or point of air getting into the fuel system. i.e. cracked fuel hose, missing washer off the injectors etc...

some good advice here.. i didnt think to crack the injector nut to allow the air to escape.... did you say to crank the engine over to do it?
cos i flattened my battery this arvo trying to turn it over got it on a charger so its sit back and wait...........

yep you need to crank the engine over when bleeding the injectors.

I've found it easy by having all injector nuts cracked at the same time. Do this first. Bleed the main filter and use a small plastic tube on the bleed screw as to not let air back in. When all the bubbles are out, close the small valve, and close up the primer pump. The leak problem is very common but the primer is only really needed to fill the filter anyway. If the top O-ring is OK still then the pump shouldn't leak air when it's screwed in. It probably just leaks a lot when you are manually pumping it.
Don't worry about bleeding the injector pump, later pumps don't have a proper bleed screw. Continue cranking the engine until all the lines are bleeding. They normally all start bleeding/squirting at the same time too. Could take about 30 seconds of cranking once the filter is bled. You may flatten your battery so have a jump setup ready.
Once all are squirting, stop cranking and tighten all the nuts together. Glow again and it will start first pop without missing.

TIP: When undoing or tightening the injector nuts, make sure the ignition key is NOT in the ON position. It's easy to short cicuit your 17mm spanner to the glow plug power rail and cause some good arcing.

There's a mob on ebay.au selling plenty of aftermarket 4WD(mostly Toyo) bits and I've seen a kit for the primer pump. Was cheap as chips, like $40 or something. Can't remember the ebay shop name though. Will check it up.

PUMP PRIMER B H 2H LC>1/1990
Suits Models BJ40 BJ42 BJ73 BJ74 HJ45 HJ47 HJ60 HJ61 HJ75

Product Code 22501-77020

$30-00

Well thanks for the help everyone, but instead of the joy of starting it up, i have VERY bad news..... I went out this morning to get a new pump plunger, and i left my old man to do a few "last minute checks" on the old girl
i got home and he sez "hey have a look how much water is coming out the sump plug!!!!!!!!!" hes forgot to put the sump plug in and theres water dripping out the sump.. he sez "good job we didnt put the oil in yet" I am on the garage floor clutching my heart !!!! c,mon, tell me what i think it is?...... ie a cracked head.... im having a crap week and its only tuesday.

toyotroop wrote:Well thanks for the help everyone, but instead of the joy of starting it up, i have VERY bad news..... I went out this morning to get a new pump plunger, and i left my old man to do a few "last minute checks" on the old girl
i got home and he sez "hey have a look how much water is coming out the sump plug!!!!!!!!!" hes forgot to put the sump plug in and theres water dripping out the sump.. he sez "good job we didnt put the oil in yet" I am on the garage floor clutching my heart !!!! c,mon, tell me what i think it is?...... ie a cracked head.... im having a crap week and its only tuesday.

shit, were you cranking it over without oil in it?

water out the sump sounds very very very bad

Yah, replaced my primer pump, it was pissin out fuel everywhere. The new metal one cost $35 i think, miles better than the old plastic one anyways, and dead easy to swap over.

My primer leaks fuel (a lot of) when I unscrew it to pump it up and down.

I just spoke to local toyota mob for replacement whom advise that it's $120.00

How do I get a metal one for $30?

rock hopper wrote:PUMP PRIMER B H 2H LC>1/1990
Suits Models BJ40 BJ42 BJ73 BJ74 HJ45 HJ47 HJ60 HJ61 HJ75

Product Code 22501-77020

$30-00

pridhac wrote:My primer leaks fuel (a lot of) when I unscrew it to pump it up and down.

I just spoke to local toyota mob for replacement whom advise that it's $120.00

How do I get a metal one for $30?

rock hopper wrote:PUMP PRIMER B H 2H LC>1/1990
Suits Models BJ40 BJ42 BJ73 BJ74 HJ45 HJ47 HJ60 HJ61 HJ75

Product Code 22501-77020

$30-00

most diesel places will have cheaper ones

I had my entire primer pump replaced for $40 about 3 years ago.

My primer too spews fuel out when it's being pumped. Can someone explain to me why it's bad?

For want of a more technical explanation, there are two reasons that spring immediately to my mind.

i) At $1.40/L I prefer to either burn my fuel, or keep it in the tank

ii) My folks are particularly unimpressed by the large stain that now marks the spot on the road in front of their house where I performed my most recent service.

HTH

joel HJ60 wrote:My primer too spews fuel out when it's being pumped. Can someone explain to me why it's bad?

pridhac wrote:For want of a more technical explanation, there are two reasons that spring immediately to my mind.

i) At $1.40/L I prefer to either burn my fuel, or keep it in the tank

ii) My folks are particularly unimpressed by the large stain that now marks the spot on the road in front of their house where I performed my most recent service.

HTH

joel HJ60 wrote:My primer too spews fuel out when it's being pumped. Can someone explain to me why it's bad?

if it only leaks when you need to prime it (which should only be when your working on fuel system) then theres no real problem.

if it leaks all the time then theres a big problem and youve got too much money if you dont fix it

Fair call. Unless I can find a $30 metal jobby, I'll leave it. It only leaks when priming


[/quote]
if it only leaks when you need to prime it (which should only be when your working on fuel system) then theres no real problem.

if it leaks all the time then theres a big problem and youve got too much money if you dont fix it [/quote]

if fuel can leak out, air can leak in, introducing air into the fuel system, at worst making less power, at best making the buggers stop running... replace it (for 30 bucks your pretty slack if you don't) and your laughing.

as for the water in the sump, have you drained the sump since you pulled the head... i know when i pulled my head that a heap of cooling water gushed in through the cylinders.

I was at the stage where as i was going to bleed the fuel lines, the old man was putting the oil and water in... he was doing this when i pulled up with a new primer pump ( metal one $40..) he had put 8 litres of oil in to start with, topped the water up and then checked the dipstick to see if the oil had settled
and thats when he saw the oil level on the dipstick was half way up.. now 2h,s hold ten litres of oil.. so wtf is going on. he then sees water dropplets on the dipstick and pulls the sump plug out to check, and thats when water started to piss out... thats when i got home.... and now i have to pull it all back appart to fix it properly this time... at least i can claim it as a great lesson learned, all in all a lot of fun and experience...

If you replaced the head gasket because you blew the old one then having water in the sump is not uncommon. Have you checked the head for cracks too. The head is normally what goes not the gasket. The coolant in the head will come through the crack and will leak past the pistons eventually and into the sump. The water just settles to the bottom of the sump. Just drain it out, you may a find a litre or two in there. When the oil start coming out put the plug back in.

IS it possible to pull out the old primer without ripping heeps of other stuff out? If so how?

joel HJ60 wrote:IS it possible to pull out the old primer without ripping heeps of other stuff out? If so how?

use a spanner . takes 2-5 min . less than 10min .