im getting my new suspension this week
i have never played with a torsion bar front before. is there any trick to installing them, i have done some reading and understand the basic principal.
but how do you get it so that the torsion bar is at the right height (without having to do to much adjustment) first time
is there any way or do you just suck it and see
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torsion bar instalation
Moderator: -Scott-
Original bars have alignment marks but I don't think after market ones do, you have fit them in the front then guess the back arm alignment, do up the bolt until you get the height you are looking for. checkh the bolt is at about half way (adjustment) if it isn't at half way time to reindex the back arm then try again.
Regrds Glenn
Regrds Glenn
Pajero GLX 2.8td 255/85/16 BFG muds 265/75/16 BFG AT's, articulator, 2.5inch lift, ball joint flip, rear sway bar disconnect and lots of mods.
Done mine last week end
Used a hoist though
When the car (or front end) is completly off the ground the suspension rests on the stops thus both sides should be even (assuming rubbers are fairly good) Measure centre of hub to wheel arch to check
If you mark the bar it is as easy as removing the rear and rotating it a couple of indexes Front of the bar stay as is
Say for the pass side looking forward.
If the line is on the inside of the truck at 3 oclock remove the rear adjuster and rotate so the mark on the adjuster is at 5 oclock with relation to the torsions bars 3 oclock.
9 to 7 on the drivers side
Do the same for both sides you will notice if your out by a spline
You will need to jack the adjuster up to start the long bolts off. A mate helps here
What you are doing is rotating the adjuster end of rear mount adjuster thingo (tech name) down. When you wind the adjusters back in the torsion bar twists making the front rise (anti clockwiser = pass clockwiser=drv)
A rattle gun is a god send when winding the adjusters. Clean the long screws with a wire brush first make it sh@t loads easier
Install each bar making sure the rear adjusters look as though they are even.
Took about 45mins Chassis hoist saves heaps of time
Hope this helps
cheers
wayne
Used a hoist though
When the car (or front end) is completly off the ground the suspension rests on the stops thus both sides should be even (assuming rubbers are fairly good) Measure centre of hub to wheel arch to check
If you mark the bar it is as easy as removing the rear and rotating it a couple of indexes Front of the bar stay as is
Say for the pass side looking forward.
If the line is on the inside of the truck at 3 oclock remove the rear adjuster and rotate so the mark on the adjuster is at 5 oclock with relation to the torsions bars 3 oclock.
9 to 7 on the drivers side
Do the same for both sides you will notice if your out by a spline
You will need to jack the adjuster up to start the long bolts off. A mate helps here
What you are doing is rotating the adjuster end of rear mount adjuster thingo (tech name) down. When you wind the adjusters back in the torsion bar twists making the front rise (anti clockwiser = pass clockwiser=drv)
A rattle gun is a god send when winding the adjusters. Clean the long screws with a wire brush first make it sh@t loads easier
Install each bar making sure the rear adjusters look as though they are even.
Took about 45mins Chassis hoist saves heaps of time
Hope this helps
cheers
wayne
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[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
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[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
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