Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone mounted their Hayme Reece Towbar on top of the chassis after a bodylift rather than have it hanging below (ie. the normal way) Thinking that this could be posible. Wouldnt be using it to tow anyways, just to be used as a recovery point. Was looking at it today and i think with a 2in bodylift it would fit ok.

Comments?

Leeroy

Mine would only just fit leading me to believe that this could cause eventual cracking of the body. Think of the compression of you body blocks (if you arn't just using steel). This could possibly mean that the body would be under undue pressure from the bar. The alternative that I have been going for is sligin the bar in between the chasis raila, cutting a hole in the rear crossmember and my bumper. I reckon this would solves all possible issues

SANGA

Cheers... I like that idea of having it in between the rails...

Not quite sure how the body would be under pressure, there is only two body blocks on either side at the rear but not near where the bar would bolt up to.

Wanting to take rear bumper off completely anyways, so maybe just look down the lines of the custom rear bar with recovery points, and to protect the chopped rear 1/4's when they get done...

Thanks mate
Lee.

With regards to the body being under stress I have seen bodies crack due to use of a polyetherne (sp) body block and then adding two metal body blocks due to not having enough blocks. What happened was the poly's felxed underpresure alowing the body to have a very small amount of cusioning, but where the metal blocks were the body had not room for play and hence cracked the body metal. I just though you idea may do the same. Go for it if you want, but I wouldn't risk it myself.

Cheers
SANGA

I have a 2 inch body lift in my 60, using aluminium blocks. maintain factory rubbers and use a piece of rubber on top of the aluminum and you wont have any dramas. Had my tow pack flipped for 18 months now, and have had no dramas. Fits in very snug between the chassis and the body and just had to grind a few little bits off to get it to fit nicely.

I have had no problems over the last 5 years

I have also cut down an alley bullbar and used it to cover the chassis and tow bar with the hayman reece fitting through the alley bar.

Thanks for that...

Yup, i now know what you mean Sanga, and thanks for that, but the Body wont actually be connected to or touching my Hayme and Reece, so thats where the confusion was...

Carts... How easy was it to re drill the holes for the flipped Hayme n Reece. I couldnt see any holes already there?

Thanks
lee.

carts wrote:I have a 2 inch body lift in my 60, using aluminium blocks. maintain factory rubbers and use a piece of rubber on top of the aluminum and you wont have any dramas. Had my tow pack flipped for 18 months now, and have had no dramas. Fits in very snug between the chassis and the body and just had to grind a few little bits off to get it to fit nicely.

Well now that I know that someone else has done it successfully I will give it a go. Sounds easier than my other idea

It was fairly simple to redrill the holes. I just had a rather long drill bit. Basically, just insert the drill bit in the old holes and drill all the way through to the top of the chassis rail. Centre punching the holes is always a good idea, because sometimes paralax error can get the better of you!!

Thanks all...

PS. Carts... Have you got any pics of your rig posted on here some where?

Apart from the odd picture, not really. I'll take some pics for you and post it up in the members thread!! Just never really got round to it.