Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all, recently lifted my GQ swb 4", and to fix driveshaft troubles ive got some ajustable upper arms from bigballs, my question is what angle do i run the driveshaft at? if i line the 2 centres up (pinion and gearbox flanges) so as they are running parrallel like i have been told to do, the tailshaft is on a very steep angle, the unis are both on the same sort of angle but the tailshaft itself is fairly steep,
if i wind em the other way so as the pinion is pointing to the gearbox (less angle) the shock on the drivers side will hit the bump stop plate that is on the diff housing........... help???

Cheers

Ryan

have you gone back to the wanks that fucked your suspension up in the first place??

Now you arent working, do it. let it be their problem

who did it? Maybe a Cardan joint is in your future. Carlton (Wendle) on the boards is the guru on them.

Couple of things you can do:

1. drop the trans crossmember with some spacers from ARB or similar supplier

2. Raise the engine (prob only feasable if you have body lift)

3. Double cardan joint for the rear shaft.

Dropping the trans crossmember will increase the front shaft angle at the case output end, but because you don't run this all the time the vibes won't matter as much. You will have to make a compromise somewhere to make this all play together, being a shorty and all. I would look at the options starting at 1 first (cheapest option).

hey dude.
Quick fix:
Wind them out long like you have described.
Get a cardin shaft - sam at overkill organised mine to get built for me way cheaper than I have heard anyone else getting one for. (like heaps cheaper) with a big spicer joint.
Cut the back bit off the bump stop plates, it doesn't do anyhting anyway (watch the brakelines )
Cut the shock mounts from front to back about 90% of the way and bend them out to get the pins horizontal again, and weld them back up.
That worked fine for me untill I wanted to clear 37"s and move the axle back.

Wendle wrote:hey dude.
Get a cardin shaft - sam at overkill organised mine to get built for me way cheaper than I have heard anyone else getting one for. (like heaps cheaper) with a big spicer joint.

Did Kyle ever sell his D C tailshaft??

Area54 is selling.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ARB gearbox packers set of 4 plates 5mm thick - $30.00

Brisbane southside 0413 409 006 or PM me

Trader section here.

bogged wrote:Did Kyle ever sell his D C tailshaft??

Yes he did.... ; )

The cardon is good at reducing all the little vibes, the problem I had is that it would bind badly when the car was flexed.

You can adjust out most of the vibe with the adjustable arms, and gearbox packers. Remember there is two different way the angles can be setup to reduce vibe. Check out pic:

Avoid the gearbox packer doodads if you can get away with it. 10mm doesn't sound like much, but it is enough to stop the crossmember sliding over rocks that are grinding their way along the chassis rail, it also puts the lowest point on the t/case a fair bit lower than the chassis rails (due to the whole lot pivoting down from the engine mounts) and it cops a hiding.

Rocks? What are they?

CV jointed tailshaft..... thats what i need, just got to figure out how to make it work.....

getdirty wrote:

bogged wrote:Did Kyle ever sell his D C tailshaft??

Yes he did.... ; )

The cardon is good at reducing all the little vibes, the problem I had is that it would bind badly when the car was flexed.

You can adjust out most of the vibe with the adjustable arms, and gearbox packers. Remember there is two different way the angles can be setup to reduce vibe. Check out pic:

commonly called the "broken back"