Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok,

we are looking at swapping the diffs on robs 40 to GQ and running a dobbins coil over rear end with a triangulted 4 link. that is the easy, but we are looking to retain the leaf spring front for simplicity and it works pretty well....but I we were to take all but the main leaf and a load leaf out of the spring pack and replace the shock with a coil over strut arrangment which would theoretically mean no need no need for a link set up due to the leaf pring set up keeping the diff where it is supposed to be and giving some support fo he load, but taking a proportion of the weight through the coil over thus efectivly making the ride better would this work or am i dreaming?

comments and brain storming sounds good

the rear sounds good, the gqs sound even better, but your plan for the front sounds bad. sorry, no offence. but that sounds half assed. sure it will work, but you either run leafs or link it, you dont run both.

running both is what dudes use to do in the 70s as a cheap fix to improve ride quality.

you would get mad axle wrap as well, 2 leafs would not control the axle enough

the cruiser is not a tourer, or a beach fishing truck,

i would just keep the leafs, the front flexes mad.

and why dobbins ranchos when you can get proper race runner coilovers for cheaper ?

Dreaming.... If you were gonna make up the mounts for the coilovers on the front you might as well make up four more mounts and run links. Keeping leaves in the front is fine as long as the back isn't set up too soft the front will still work.

planb wrote:the rear sounds good, the gqs sound even better, but your plan for the front sounds bad. sorry, no offence. but that sounds half assed. sure it will work, but you either run leafs or link it, you dont run both.

running both is what dudes use to do in the 70s as a cheap fix to improve ride quality.

you would get mad axle wrap as well, 2 leafs would not control the axle enough

the cruiser is not a tourer, or a beach fishing truck,

i would just keep the leafs, the front flexes mad.

and why dobbins ranchos when you can get proper race runner coilovers for cheaper ?

Hmm, bad idea

Rob likes the Dobbins ones having seen them work well on Justins GQ. I think even air shocks for the rear ie restricted 18" ones woulod work well, but the set up etc for the nitro kit is $$ so coilovers are the easiest in the long run.

The front does flex well hence the reason I was thinking of the halfway idea, I think leavin it in the meantime is better than setting up a totally new systdem, and trouble shooting and eehing new diffs and coilover rear will keep us busy any way I thought that the main and a load spring would keep the axel wrap under control, but I geuss why try and fix what aint broke

Tiny wrote:

planb wrote:the rear sounds good, the gqs sound even better, but your plan for the front sounds bad. sorry, no offence. but that sounds half assed. sure it will work, but you either run leafs or link it, you dont run both.

running both is what dudes use to do in the 70s as a cheap fix to improve ride quality.

you would get mad axle wrap as well, 2 leafs would not control the axle enough

the cruiser is not a tourer, or a beach fishing truck,

i would just keep the leafs, the front flexes mad.

and why dobbins ranchos when you can get proper race runner coilovers for cheaper ?

Hmm, bad idea

Rob likes the Dobbins ones having seen them work well on Justins GQ. I think even air shocks for the rear ie restricted 18" ones woulod work well, but the set up etc for the nitro kit is $$ so coilovers are the easiest in the long run.

the best thing about glenns is the ability to control how fast they unload by tuning the air knob thing he builds into them, they are a strong unit also, but they are still a rancho under all that hardware.

you can get sway away race runners for around $600 a piece from simon at 4way. coils would set you back another $150 odd per unit for dual rates. and the race runners are mental shocks, built for bearing weight, they have 21mm plus OD rods and super long shanks in the shock body which is what you need if the shock is carring weight.

glenns are $800 a piece from memory ?

sounds like a good project though.

but if you can get a GU front, Rob could drive the way he likes and not break so many axles.

GU front is about $3000 right ?

are you getting the GQs cheap ?

why not GU front, GQ rear ?

then you can really power down, run 44s even down the track.

you know you want it

planb wrote:

Tiny wrote:

planb wrote:the rear sounds good, the gqs sound even better, but your plan for the front sounds bad. sorry, no offence. but that sounds half assed. sure it will work, but you either run leafs or link it, you dont run both.

running both is what dudes use to do in the 70s as a cheap fix to improve ride quality.

you would get mad axle wrap as well, 2 leafs would not control the axle enough

the cruiser is not a tourer, or a beach fishing truck,

i would just keep the leafs, the front flexes mad.

and why dobbins ranchos when you can get proper race runner coilovers for cheaper ?

Hmm, bad idea

Rob likes the Dobbins ones having seen them work well on Justins GQ. I think even air shocks for the rear ie restricted 18" ones woulod work well, but the set up etc for the nitro kit is $$ so coilovers are the easiest in the long run.

the best thing about glenns is the ability to control how fast they unload by tuning the air knob thing he builds into them, they are a strong unit also, but they are still a rancho under all that hardware.

you can get sway away race runners for around $600 a piece from simon at 4way. coils would set you back another $150 odd per unit for dual rates. and the race runners are mental shocks, built for bearing weight, they have 21mm plus OD rods and super long shanks in the shock body which is what you need if the shock is carring weight.

glenns are $800 a piece from memory ?

sounds like a good project though.

but if you can get a GU front, Rob could drive the way he likes and not break so many axles.

GU front is about $3000 right ?

are you getting the GQs cheap ?

why not GU front, GQ rear ?

then you can really power down, run 44s even down the track.

you know you want it

Price is a major consideration, GQs are relitivly cheap, and while GU front would be lovley, strenght and turning circle and a it of width, the are pricy, and the idea is to have it off and on the road in a couple of weeks then lockers after and ready for TTC. 44s are all good, but 39s with the current rations, and maybe 4.66s down the track will be very workable without a great deal of work and cost. it all depends, but the MTRs may be the tyre for TTC yet as well.

[/quote]

Price is a major consideration, GQs are relitivly cheap, and while GU front would be lovley, strenght and turning circle and a it of width, the are pricy, and the idea is to have it off and on the road in a couple of weeks then lockers after and ready for TTC. 44s are all good, but 39s with the current rations, and maybe 4.66s down the track will be very workable without a great deal of work and cost. it all depends, but the MTRs may be the tyre for TTC yet as well.[/quote]

cool cool.

i know a certain someone who rented a 3L GU Patrol (which runs 4.6 gears) for the weekend and returned it with 4.1 centres

i wouldnt condone that sort of behavior though

get some 39 iroks, some haultech cvs and tell rob teach rob how to feather the skinny pedal

i never broke a front axle in that thing, and i drove some pretty gnarly stuff.

sounds like its going to be a weapon though, post some pics of the build

planb wrote:

Price is a major consideration, GQs are relitivly cheap, and while GU front would be lovley, strenght and turning circle and a it of width, the are pricy, and the idea is to have it off and on the road in a couple of weeks then lockers after and ready for TTC. 44s are all good, but 39s with the current rations, and maybe 4.66s down the track will be very workable without a great deal of work and cost. it all depends, but the MTRs may be the tyre for TTC yet as well.

cool cool.

i know a certain someone who rented a 3L GU Patrol (which runs 4.6 gears) for the weekend and returned it with 4.1 centres

i wouldnt condone that sort of behavior though

get some 39 iroks, some haultech cvs and tell rob teach rob how to feather the skinny pedal

i never broke a front axle in that thing, and i drove some pretty gnarly stuff.

sounds like its going to be a weapon though, post some pics of the build

we tried sponge under the pedel last trials and he still broke 3 cvs and rolled the thing

you should put a light rate spring between the throttle cable and the throttle body, that will slow him down a bit

planb wrote:you should put a light rate spring between the throttle cable and the throttle body, that will slow him down a bit

I am thinking one of these:lol:

http://www.my4x4.com.au/onlinestore/sto ... duct=10053

Tiny wrote:

planb wrote:you should put a light rate spring between the throttle cable and the throttle body, that will slow him down a bit

I am thinking one of these:lol:

http://www.my4x4.com.au/onlinestore/sto ... duct=10053

Get Farked Tiny.

It's gonna have Multi point EFI and a T700 too, just for stiring i'm going to get one of these http://www.magnumforceracing.com/nitrouskit_gm_efi.asp


maybe I can snap 4 axles at the same time then.

you know what would solve all your problems

a pair of 404 mogs

$3000 for the pair, incl lockers, incl 6.17 gears (or near enough) and strength to boot.

then you can run nitros, 44s and buy a trailer

all the better comps are aiming for unregistered class anyhow.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

mogs

it makes financial sense

it will save you money in the long run