Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just trying to fit a set of 5 deg T/dog caster plates to my 6" lifted 80 series & now have the steering arm hitting the lower control arm, im told 5.5 deg was the max you can use to avoid hitting the steering.

So what am i doing wrong ???

You are supposed to grind a bit there mate (control arms that is)

Ulises

udm wrote:You are supposed to grind a bit there mate (control arms that is)

Ulises

NO do not grind the control arms.

if the tierod is hitting the leading arms, either you have caster correction bushes fitted, and will have to replace them with factory, centrered bushes, or your leading arms are a bit bent.


there should be 8 - 10mm clearance between the arms and the tierod, but it is normal for it to hit on full articulation

dumbdunce, he[s got a 6" lift in his car, my car with 4" is nearly touching, but no need to grind, with a 6" lift all you have to do is grind less then 1mm off the arms.

Kev80, Ive actually got 5.5o plates, so you shoudnt have big problems with yours.

udm wrote:dumbdunce, he[s got a 6" lift in his car, my car with 4" is nearly touching, but no need to grind, with a 6" lift all you have to do is grind less then 1mm off the arms.

you most definitely do not have to grind anything to fit 5.5 degree caster plates. the amount of lift makes no difference. I have 5.5 degree caster plates in my 80 (wtih 5" lift, but it makes NO difference how much lift) , and have fitted same to several other 80's, and with (a)straight arms and (b)factory bushes, there is 8 - 10mm clearance between the arms and the tierod with the vehicle on flat ground. when you ramp it up, yes they will hit - just. if the tierod hits the arms when the vehicle is on flat ground, either the arms are bent or the bushes have caster correction or are flogged out. The front leading arms are a critical suspension component and MUST NOT be modified - they are or marginal strength and are easy enough to bend without weakening them further.

approx 5 - 5.5 degrees is both the maximum (because of the tierod/control arm interference) and minimum (without savaging the factory control arm mounts) correction available for 80 series by use of caster plates.

pic attached is of my 80 with (a)straight arms (b) factory bushes in good condition (c)5.5 degree caster plates (d) about 8mm clearance between tieroad and leading arm. visible also is the rusty patch where the paint has rubbed off on the arm at full articulation.

I did have the offset caster bushes installed but this caused one of my diff mounts to break off when flexing the suspension so i needed an alternative.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=55469

I now have the factory bushes back in (new) & am sure the steering arm is not bent, i was thinking how easy it would be to grind the control arm to clear the steering but not sure about that, dont want to fix one problem & cause another.

Also with the offset bushes i recon there was only about half the angle i have now & only had about 5mm to 10mm gap & the drive line looked exactly straight unlike now.

One thing after another hey.

Kev80 wrote:... am sure the steering arm is not bent, ...

not the steering arm, the leading arm/arms. although bendage in the tierod could also cause interference, it is easy enough to check with a straight edge.

You sayin the control arms could be bent

How the hell could you bend them ??? I realy hope thats not the case.

The radius arms can bend, I have bent one before and had to change it.

Dave

Kev80 wrote:You sayin the control arms could be bent

How the hell could you bend them ??? I realy hope thats not the case.

they are actually pretty easy to bend especially on a lifted truck. if you bang them on rocks or the truck does a nosedive and lands heavily on one wheel, they will bend. DX80's arms were both bent I think? one up-and-down ways and one sideways.

I had the same problem when I had my 6 inch lift and castor plates and I am positive the radius arms were not bent as I had just bought it off someone I knew and I know for a fact that it had never been off road.

The lift was installed by Opposiute lock. They bent the tie rod to overcome this.

Geez i never thought you could bend those suckers, nothing is safe hey.

Today i loosend all the bolts a jacked the diff centre side up carefully then re tightend all the bolts again, this time i have about 5mm gap.

Dont know if it will stay that way yet.

Tomorrow i might take it for a spin around the block & try this again.


Bruiser, i also used the 4-way plate kit from OL, maybe their's is slightly different.

something else I have just thought of - did you trim the bottom of the front of the factroy mounts to give clearance to the washers welded to the inside of the plates (as per instructions with plates), or did you slot/elongate the upper bolt hole on the factory mount?

Yeah i cut the mount off slightly at the bottom as needed.

I thought about grinding the holes bigger to offset the angle but because i already have broken off one diff mount i recon the caster plates will provide extra strength.

Kev80 wrote:Yeah i cut the mount off slightly at the bottom as needed.

I thought about grinding the holes bigger to offset the angle but because i already have broken off one diff mount i recon the caster plates will provide extra strength.

mysterious - I'd put a dollar on some slight bendage in the arms. can you get your hands on a known straight one (borrow one off shoppign trolley 80?) to compare with yours?

Yeah maybe but im not going to buy new ones, worst case i will give the plates the flick & gring out the bolt holes untill the steering clears the arms what ever the final deg will be.

When i had the caster bushes they were less than 5 deg & the cruiser drove well.


I just want it fixed so i can take my ski boat out for a spin.

Kev80 wrote:Yeah maybe but im not going to buy new ones, worst case i will give the plates the flick & gring out the bolt holes untill the steering clears the arms what ever the final deg will be.

When i had the caster bushes they were less than 5 deg & the cruiser drove well.

I just want it fixed so i can take my ski boat out for a spin.

you don't need new arms if they are a little bit bent - they are forged and can be straightened in a 20 ton shop press without too much drama.


be careful, I hear the crocs up there like a good feed of fresh water skiier!

When i fitted the 5.5 plates to mine there was only a couple of mm between the arms and the steering rod.... and nothing was bent...

Mate had the same prob with mine, could'nt get enough correction with only a 5" lift. Had the diff rotated to the max no caster plates, car drove o kay but slight tyre shake under hard braking. The only way to get the caster correct is to Flip the radius arms. Done this now have heaps of clearance and car drives like a stocker.

Just an update.

With all bolts tight & a quick drive down the street i have approx 5mm clearance on the driver side & 3mm on the passenger side.

The steering does scrape when turning but thats normal hey !!!
Might just have to live with that.


While i was under there i noticed worn shockie rubbers & a slight coolent leak........ told ya it was never ending.