Outer Limits 4x4 Board

anybody fitted a bigger/betta brake booster to their rocky/scat/fez?

ive got mqs under my rocky and want to upgrade the booster to nissan or
cruiser. does anybody no measurents or upgraded theirs?

I was going to try to fit a different master and booster. After some research I just fitted a Wilwood 10 pound residual valve to the rear line of the Daihatsu master cylinder...seemed to do the trick. I also added a Tilton proportioning valve inside the cab.

still can't post pictures.....

Toyhatsu wrote:I was going to try to fit a different master and booster. After some research I just fitted a Wilwood 10 pound residual valve to the rear line of the Daihatsu master cylinder...seemed to do the trick. I also added a Tilton proportioning valve inside the cab.

still can't post pictures.....

u fitted a what

leaning on a mq booster
Should i take the whole brake assembly pedal n all?
or is the clevis pin where it joins the pedal a universal fit.

Spartacus wrote:

Toyhatsu wrote:I was going to try to fit a different master and booster. After some research I just fitted a Wilwood 10 pound residual valve to the rear line of the Daihatsu master cylinder...seemed to do the trick. I also added a Tilton proportioning valve inside the cab.

still can't post pictures.....

u fitted a what

leaning on a mq booster
Should i take the whole brake assembly pedal n all?
or is the clevis pin where it joins the pedal a universal fit.

I think the americans get all the cool toys, we have to make do with entrails from donor cars and MIGs

RockyF70 wrote: we have to make do with entrails from donor cars and MIGs

and if ur lucky a tig

mmm droools TIG

runnin4life wrote:

RockyF70 wrote: we have to make do with entrails from donor cars and MIGs

and if ur lucky a tig

mmm droools TIG

pfff, i'm lucky if i get to use a MIG (used one once for bout 30sec ) , and still havta 'borrow' the CIG if i wanna do anything myslef x50 lol

RockyF70 wrote:

runnin4life wrote:

RockyF70 wrote: we have to make do with entrails from donor cars and MIGs

and if ur lucky a tig

mmm droools TIG

pfff, i'm lucky if i get to use a MIG (used one once for bout 30sec ) , and still havta 'borrow' the CIG if i wanna do anything myslef x50 lol

whats CIG im still getting my head around all the corect names for half the welders

cheers
elliot

I'm pretty sure CIG is just a stick welder, the 2nd crapiest one. So it goes, ARC, CIG, MIG, TIG... i think

RockyF70 wrote:I'm pretty sure CIG is just a stick welder, the 2nd crapiest one. So it goes, ARC, CIG, MIG, TIG... i think

oww ok

yer ive only got a little stick welder here at home but at work we got tigs and migs

at tafe we got em all from submerged arc to tig

any ways back to topic

cheers
elliot

A residual valve

Hey Kent, what's the theory behind the valve? Does it restrict the brake line pressure to the rear- so you can apply more pedal pressure before the rears will lock?

here is the link to the valve, $19.38US
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-Mas ... /index.asp

quote from the site "a ten pound valve is used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums"

by reading that i would guess it keeps a bit of pressure, 10pounds, on the rear break lines so that the springs do not retract the shoes too much.
wouldnt that just make it quicker for the rear breaks to be applied?

Kent, have you noticed your rear breaks wearing out quicker?
have you actually noticed an improvement in the breaking?


Capa sells them in SA
http://www.capa.com.au/shm_brakes.htm

another article on them
http://www.hot-rod.com.au/builder/brakes.html

it seems alot of cars have them as standard esp the older disc/drum cars.

For $20ish for better breaks? Id do it.

so Kent, real world verdict?

I went from the Daihatsu brake drums on the rear to the Toyota and the Toyota's are about two inches bigger in diameter. I am still using the Feroza master cylinder. After bleeding the brake pedal would go almost to the floor. Putting the residual vlave on really helped and after adjusting the proportioning valve I could lock up the brakes just fine. No more ABS.

I only drove it for about five months and one of the balance shafts worked its way out of the engine. This wallowed out the bearing seat in the block so that one is shot. I do have another one on the way. I was told that is was a freak incident. So I haven't driven it for two weeks.

The brakes have held up just fine and the residual valve helped a lot. The only other option was to put a larger master cylinder on which would have been more "custom" fabrication. I had/ have already done enough of that.

Wilwood sells a 5 and 10 pound unit. The 5 pound is supposed to be for disc's and the 10 pound is for drum's.

So the residual valve is good for you because your drum breaks are bigger, thus it needs more oil to actually apply the shoes to the drums...
Wonder if it would be benifical in a stock Feroza setup though...
If i can find one in sydney i'll buy one and put it on when i redo the breaks.

i like the residual valve idea best since i was expecting many 00s added to price.

currently searching for brisbane vendors of same product.
anyone now if places like repco, autobarn , or supaheap stock em?