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Snake Racing kit suspension kit

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 10:11 am
by A*D*A*M
I was e-mailing Snake Racing about something else and they mentioned that they are developing a complete Rover suspension kit for about a 3-4 inch lift. Kit will include dropped Radius arms, etc like the ones they make for Patrol / L'cruiser. I'm guessing it will all be Tough Dog stuff like their other kits and probably expensive. Dropped Radius arms would be nice, wonder how much $$$?

Will be about a month or more away apparently,

Adam.

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 6:30 pm
by BIg StEvE
Yeah probly would be good but i get the feeling too that it would cost a fair bit of coin! :?

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 9:38 am
by modman
why not just bend your own, its not rocket science!
i've seen it even done cold :roll:
search for hsv rangies post on this.
don't waste your money on bling-bling.
david

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 10:04 am
by A*D*A*M
Great if you've got a press and stuff to do the job. The suspension places I've asked about bending arms for me all refused. Some offered to make new ones at $1000+ and said it needed to be engineered.

I'm sure its a simple job, but without the equipment (and skills) car continues to wander. I'll probably just lower the front end a bit to correct castor. I've only got about 2inch lift in at the moment.

If you know someone who can do it cheaply, I'm all ears...

Adam.

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 10:33 am
by red90
You could just fit offset bushes. I've heard some complain, but I had them for 4 years with lots of hard off roading and they held up fine. Articulation travel didn't change.

The other cheap option is to rotate the swivels.

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 10:47 am
by DARTHrover
The other cheap option is to rotate the swivels
and this is not to expensive, LRA price is $140 per ball.

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 1:31 pm
by modman
get a plumber to heat the arms with an oxy then bend in a vise
(with thick gloves)
any engineering workshop worth their salt should be able to perform this service. doesn't have to be an automotive workshop.
david

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 5:21 pm
by RangingRover
I'm sure its a simple job, but without the equipment (and skills) car continues to wander. I'll probably just lower the front end a bit to correct castor. I've only got about 2inch lift in at the moment.
If you've only got 2 inch lift, you shouldn't be getting much road wander... I have 2.5 inch spring, and 2 inch body, and I have NO wander with standard tyres, with no castor correction.... Even with the 34s on it doesn't wander bugger all. Perhaps your alignment is out?

Anyways, there are 3 options (aside from cranked radius arms).... One is to space your radius arm bush at the chassis - can probably fit a 10mm (if not more) spacer between the forward bush and chassis bracket, depends how much thread is showing at the end of your arm. I can't remember if theres any problems with doing this, but i can't see one, providing the hole through the centre of your spacer is big enough not to impede the travel of the radius arm.

Another is offset bushes at the diff, personally I wouldn't bother with this option. If you need to go to the extent of offset bushes, go the whole hog and rotate your swivels, like a couple of people have said. Rotated swivels will allow you to get pretty massive spring lift.

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 10:09 pm
by A*D*A*M
I was quoted $800 to rotate the front swivel hubs by Davis Performance Landys. Plus if I only correct castor, the bushes at the chassis are constantly under stress and limits down travel. That said, my sway-bars are probably doing more to limit down travel than anything else at the moment...

Maybe its allignment or a combo of a few worn bits and pieces. I've only got 32's on the car (for now), but it tram-tracks more than it should. Its not unpredictable, but certainly sways around the lane on the highway.

Don't love the idea of the castor correction bushes.

Will try to find a plumber or someone with an oxy, vice and gloves.

Still, after I win the lotto and start fixing my car up for the OBC, it would be good if there is a kit on the market that allows a bolt on 3-4 inch lift that works. Nice for non-mechanical types like me to just be able to bolt stuff on and drive it. We can all dream...

Adam.

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 11:37 pm
by Suspension Stuff
Yes your suspension lift will be causing it to railroad a bit but maybe your tyres are adding to your problem. What pressures are you running on your tyres and what type of tyre are they? Also a wheel alignment can't hurt.

Shane

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 9:45 am
by modman
obc has been won on standard radius arms
look at mike smiths rangie.
david

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 10:51 am
by DARTHrover
my front bumpstop height is 130mm, and my disco was bump
steering every where. so i fitted a toughdog RTC steering
dampner, and it fixed the prob.
i dont have cranked arms, castor bushes or slotted swivels.
im running on 32'' mongrels.

any taller in spring or tyre and the LRA swivels are next.

http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/100.html

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 12:20 pm
by red90
A steering damper only masked problems. I run my 90 without any damper and it is perfect.

The first thing to check is swivel preload and bearing adjustment. Then adjust toe. Simple, quick and easy to do yourself.

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 3:40 pm
by DARTHrover
i replaced the chassis to radius arm bushes yesterday. the old ones
had squashed down 15mm. i was very supprised to notice the differance
in steering feedback.
a vast improvement.

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 5:47 pm
by RangingRover
Its good when a cheap fix makes a massive difference, isn't it.... 15mm of bush difference there is a lot of castor.... at a guess 2 degrees, possibly more?

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 4:28 pm
by Rangie ute on 38''
with the front arms would it be possible to bend and crank them or because they are cast they will crack and break.

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 5:32 pm
by RangingRover
yes, the radius arms are able to be bent, according to all reports.

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:52 pm
by HSV Rangie
Rad arms made from soft steel wil bend eaqasy with heat and will not affect them.
Michael.

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:13 pm
by Bush65
RangingRover wrote:Its good when a cheap fix makes a massive difference, isn't it.... 15mm of bush difference there is a lot of castor.... at a guess 2 degrees, possibly more?
What am I missing?

I can't see 15mm at the chassis bushes making much difference to castor angle.

I can believe that slop in the bushes would affect the steering.

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 6:03 am
by 1tonsoup
If memory serves from other threads, the Rover radius arms are forged and the Nissan ones are cast - hence you can reheat/bend the Rovers but not the Nissans. Just a FYI.

Seamus.

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:51 am
by red90
A*D*A*M wrote:I was quoted $800 to rotate the front swivel hubs by Davis Performance Landys. Plus if I only correct castor, the bushes at the chassis are constantly under stress and limits down travel. That said, my sway-bars are probably doing more to limit down travel than anything else at the moment...
Have you seen LRA? http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/136.html

$280 to machine a pair of swivels to whatever angle you want.

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 4:05 pm
by DARTHrover
Have you seen LRA? http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/136.html

$280 to machine a pair of swivels to whatever angle you want.

apparently that isnt the price! they charge $660????

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 5:45 pm
by ISUZUROVER
DARTHrover wrote:
Have you seen LRA? http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/136.html

$280 to machine a pair of swivels to whatever angle you want.

apparently that isnt the price! they charge $660????
John's price was just for the machined swivels - your price is the installed price.

Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 11:02 pm
by cooter
if you crank your arms it shortens them somewhat and you actually have to bend them down 2 inches at the chassis end and up 3 inches at the diff end to compensate for a 3 inch lift. when i still had rover diffs i had a mate weld new controlarm plates on my diff and redrilled them to suit (mine were cracked anyway). though the swivel hubs can be done easy in a day by your average bloke
and as for steering wander that s most definately castor related but also check your wheel bearings front and back, as well as yor panhard rod busshes, nobody ever checks them. for every 1 inch lift you loose 1 /2 degree of castor so with a 2 inch lift you loose 1 degrres castor causing vaugness and railroading


ps the gq diffs are almost in the disco complete with droped arms 5 inch lift. Custom high angle shafts just come back today, rear a frame ball joint and trailing arm mounts go on tomorrow then just have to bolt them in so far cost is 3000 including shafts and brakelines

Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:04 pm
by jbell
cooter looking forward to some pics, 5" lift will be good to see :cool:

Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 9:01 pm
by A*D*A*M
At last wheel alignment, my castor was around 1.5 degrees. Apparently the rovers need around 3 degrees? I think bushes are good at the moment, could be tyres. They're only 265/75 cooper ST so not very agressive but side walls very straight that can cause tram-lining.

LRA are in Melbourne aren't they? I'm in Sydney at the moment, even then $660 is a lot of coin for slotting the swivel hubs. And no I don't have the time, tools, space or maybe skills (is it difficult?) to pull them off and do it myself.

It would be nice if there was a bolt-on fix that didn't cost the earth. Will try and find someone that can bend the arms for me.

Cheers,
Adam.

Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:38 pm
by Slunnie
Overkill will do the swivel hubs for you.

Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 3:39 pm
by A*D*A*M
Thanks Slunnie.

Might see if they will bend radius arms for me. Should be easier (cheaper).

Adam.

Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2005 1:25 pm
by MONGREL
I too spoke with snake racing about this new lift kit on the way and one bloke said $2500 and another said no less than $3500 and is due out at the end of this month or the start of next month.

Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 9:15 am
by cooter
bent arms