Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey im lookin into building a rock rig outa a long wheel base series 2-3 landy i m just gunna tamper with the body and weld up a tube roll bar and a lil bit o bar work neway i was wondering if ne1 had ne ideas and what not to help me along im lookin to build cheap as possible i was thinkin of goin 1/4 elliptic rear and spring ova on the front altho i would like more articulatin on the front if possible leaving the ol 2.25 rover 4cyl and gbox but adding second transfer box and cig rear locker if ne1 has ne idears or helpful hint would b much appreaciated

I assume you are not going to register this?

The first thing you need to do if you want to run large tyres is get rid of the stock axles. Unless you have a SIII LWB with a salisbury rear end the stock 10-spline cast axles are not much stronger than if they were made of parmesan.

Unless you can get hold of a SIII Stage 1 front axle and a salisbury rear cheap, it would be better going with either:
Rangie axles with the toy conversion
Nissan axles
80 series cruiser axles
All of those are $$$ though - but you get the added advantage of extra width for all 3. If you are gentle with the right foot you could use stock Rangie axles, but with a cig locker in the rear you would be changing the rangie 10-splines regularly.

I wouldn't use 1/4 elliptic, it will make the truck too unstable. If you want to keep front leaves and be as stable as possible, it would be better to keep the rig SUA (to keep the CofG low) and just chop the guards as needed (the forest rover ran 51" wheels with stock suspension).

If you go SOA with the short (stock) front springs I have heard of them breaking. Fitting longer springs helps with this.

Have a look at the buildup thread by GURU, and if you want some info on leaf spring mods read here:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... pring+rate

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... pring+rate

You can get quite a lot of travel running modified leaf springs front and rear with longer shocks. That would be the cheapest way to go for suspension.

There is no way to run dual cases on a landie easily, unless you build an underdrive from a borg warner jeep T-case and a broken land rover overdrive, (see thread by daddylonglegs).

You will need lower ratios if you are keeping the stock engine. You can get suffix B IIA t-case gears that will reduce 1st low from 40:1 to 49:1, but that is as far as you can go off-the-shelf.

Thanx mate for that info the reason i wanted 1/4 elliptic rear was so i could get way better articulation as the standard landy set up is fairly good as a stocker i want to build a hybrid landy /buggy out of it i still dont know about wat im gunna do in the front maybe just add longer shackles and move the axel foward a little bit as for the back maybe 1 should just shell out for coils or coil overs im really trying to build a capable off road rig and no its deffinetly not goin to be street i hav seen the standard donks do sum pretty amazing things so for now im leaving it stocker as i dont want to spend the dough and a landy is fairly useable as for the transfercase issue i intend on looking at a second case alternative or somthing custom not sure as how yet all in the pipeline i guess ...thnx again

look up a web site "gone2far" in the uk these guys have developed suspension kits for series LR, what looks like to be based on usa type mods. another option may be to get a stage 1 v8, comes with v8, constant 4wd ,sals rear, etc or even look for a cheap defender ute and "haultech" it

cheers, serg

thnx mate i cheacked out that gone2far web site there are some capable rigs on there i liked the aztech of sam kecks i went around to his work shop and had a gander b4 he got rid of it and thats the kinda capabilities im after, altho his 1/4 elliptics were seriously built i was just gunna bugger about and try building my own ...i havnt had nethin to do with 1/4 ellips and if ne1 has ne info on them it would be greatly appreciated the other idea i had was 3/4s but agan cant find much info on them newhere the reason i chose a landy isi have an ex army swb with a soa huge hangers and all the black out gear back home(my parents padock ute) and loved pushing it to its limits tuff as old nails but the driveline is the only concern i really like the oldies and can get them quite cheep i hav 4 at home sitting a 50s 80''wheel base model a series 1 109''? a series 2a 109''and a series 2 88'' and of coarse the ex army 88''..

spoa with 60 series cruiser rear leafs all round
101 diffs, then gu, then gq,then lux.
those leafs have huge bushes and you can get cheap ass holey slotted bushes as well
its what i'm doing, most gear can be gotten cheap from the wreckers(if not free if you have mates.)
david

All I can say is Coil it!!

I' running GQ patrol diffs, but land Cruiser 60's would be another good option

check out my build in the members section....just added flex pic's

sweet thanks for all the info atm im just gunna build it cheep weld the diff standard landy and wen it fails look into air locked 60s or patrol diffs and build a crued 1/4 elliptic set up and fiddle till it works can ne 1 let me kno how i can get the maximum low ratio outa a a landy box and ne 1 tell weather it is possible to second transfer case a landy box thanx....Shaun

the 'gone2far' guys are good, there stuff is quality and it works.

There 'revolver' shackles and a good set of parabolics make a good conversion.

Dave

For better gearing, its possible to use a Borg Warner T18/T98 4 speed trans with the series transfer case. 1st gear in these transmissions is 6.69:1. You cant find them in older internationals and some early f100's. It has a 10spline output shaft which can be made to work with the series input gear. Just needs an adaptor plate machined up. OR you could possibly adapt a dual range Toyota Dyna truck box...

Nick

thnxs for all that help i shall venture on in my quest..lol nah but yeah thanx for all the info appreciated

thnxs for all that help i shall venture on in my quest..lol nah but yeah thanx for all the info appreciated

if you wnt a set off mq diffs i have some for sale they will be a hell of a lot stonger than rover ones

ISUZUROVER wrote: I wouldn't use 1/4 elliptic, it will make the truck too unstable. If you want to keep front leaves and be as stable as possible, it would be better to keep the rig SUA (to keep the CofG low) and just chop the guards as needed (the forest rover ran 51" wheels with stock suspension).

why would 1/4 eleptic make the rig more unstable?

I was going to rung 1/4 elip on mine, only reason I didnt was their potential for massive rear steering.

jimmyb wrote:I was going to rung 1/4 elip on mine, only reason I didnt was their potential for massive rear steering.

it is the link setup not the 1/4 eleptic that does that

Has anyone other than gonads used the 3 link with leaf and shackles on both ends? Haven't seen it work, but looks bit easier than 1/4 elliptic.

redzook wrote:

ISUZUROVER wrote: I wouldn't use 1/4 elliptic, it will make the truck too unstable. If you want to keep front leaves and be as stable as possible, it would be better to keep the rig SUA (to keep the CofG low) and just chop the guards as needed (the forest rover ran 51" wheels with stock suspension).

why would 1/4 eleptic make the rig more unstable?

Not all 1/4 elliptic does, but I have seen plenty with completely unrestricted droop, which makes for unpredictable handling. If you are going to the trouble of building a proper link system it isn't much extra effort to put some coils in there.