Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey there,

Any tips on this?

I bought a tool to separate them but wont bloody fit it seems.

What methods do you guys use?

Cheers

the ball joints are a pain in the arse id know, iv had to do about a million cv boots, never used 'the tool' but, dont really think u need it, a big hammer the SIDE of the joint usually does it, if not two hammers one to each side and most of the time will fall out, otherwise a bigger hammer , also u can undo the nut to the end of the thread and hit the nut, make sure ur not hitting the thread, and to ALWAYS hit the nut and not the thread if ur going to do this, otherwise u will have fun trying to hold up the knuckle and put the nut on at the same time all whilst trying to hold the driveshaft in and the ball joint together , trust me id know, iv been there, took a long time with a thread file to get it right, i was very lucky to even get it back together

dean

Open up the inside of the tool using a grinder until the gap is large enough. Only open it up as much as is needed for strength. Once you have done this they are a lot easier than belting the bejesus out of them with a hammer.

Some workshop manuals recommend not using a Ball Joint Fork if you are
reusing the joint as it impacts the ball into it's socket.
Sometimes a little force with a Crowbar to lift the wishbone whilst tapping the side of the taper to free it.
J Top

Ball joint spreaders (forks) always wreck the boot, not to mention they are harder to use etc etc.
sounds like you have a tie rod end seperator, a smaller version of the ball joint unit.

put some weight on it, loosen the nut untill there is only about 1/2 the nut still on, then hit the cast knuckle (the part with the hole where the ball joint stem sticks thru) with very big heavy mallets. dont bother with a hammer, you need a hand mallet. (mash hammer). should drop out on about the second or third decent hit.

Crowbar/jimmybar works for me.

i seperate the tierod first ....

second put jack under lower arm and raise a bit -

whack the top joint as it is under more strain to fall

and then whack the bottom joint ......

good pair of mashies always helps

I use tie rod separator tool with widened to 22mm jaw.
http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/inner_cv/
By itself it may not be strong enough for the lower ball joint but here is the trick: tighten the bolt just like you tring to separate the joint, that creates preload, then give a moderate tap to lower jaw with the hammer, shock load separates joint from the knuckle. No massive waking, nice and clean.